I have been doing some searching and I see some people have done this but no really description on what’s size fuse for what wire, and what combo worked, I want to replace all 3 with resettable fuses. If anyone has done this can you please lmk what fuse sizes u used. I know alot of people say just buy a few, or if it was supposed to have fuses it would have been designed that way, I just don’t wanna rely on a part coming in the mail in order to start my truck, I want to be able to reset myself or go to a store n buy a fuse. Any help will be great, from the fuse box amp size to the fuse size of each wire, TIA for ur help!
Has anyone replaced fusible links with fuses?
- Thread starter Gunrunner235
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find any info? Or are u saying it’s a fools errand? Idk I wanna figure it out, I have read a ton of people that do it but no work-ups or videos.
Just order two fusible links, repalce one in 10 minutes and have the 2nd in the truck for backup. Than your not relying on the mail or an auto parts store. And they should last a very long time unless there is something else wrong.
In 9 years of driving 2 different 80 series I have never had to replace a fusible link. I have only replaced them for peace of mind.
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Fusible links are SLOW blow. You would need to use something like a MIDI fuse that has slower blowing tendancies. The idea of the fusible link is to protect the wiring so will melt/fuse BEFORE your wiring goes up in smoke. The fuses (OEM ones that are in the 80) are to protect the devices/connectors and objects from going up in smoke. It's a hierarchical protection scheme.
I converted my patrol in oz to use MIDI fuses since I had added some new circuits from the battery and the original fusible link was old and sized incorrectly (I had also converted from 24V to 12V). But then I'm an EE and have a bit of a clue about what I was doing. MIDI fuses are a good option if you know what you're doing. Read up about them on Littelfuse's website and you'll begin to understand the difference between the various fuse types - there's more to it than just their 'amp' rating...
cheers,
george.
I converted my patrol in oz to use MIDI fuses since I had added some new circuits from the battery and the original fusible link was old and sized incorrectly (I had also converted from 24V to 12V). But then I'm an EE and have a bit of a clue about what I was doing. MIDI fuses are a good option if you know what you're doing. Read up about them on Littelfuse's website and you'll begin to understand the difference between the various fuse types - there's more to it than just their 'amp' rating...
cheers,
george.
- Thread starter
- #8
I already ordered 2 links actually, but this is an old technology, what do each one of those wires run to? I read on here people had no issues with 80amp, I know there is a lot of back and 4th about this topic but honestly only interested in hearing how it’s done, bc it’s gonna get done either way, even if it takes a lil trial and error. So if u can please help me with the wiring, I have messaged a few of the guys who said they done it with no issues, but if anyone knows and can help out I would appreciate, I will post on here once I get the answers tho
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I've looked into it in the past, and started a thread here somewhere.
George above had posted in all the threads I've read, and his wealth of knowledge is clear.
Midi fuses, or marine style MRBF fuses seen to be the best options.
Both will take quite a bit of alteration to the factory wiring around the battery and fuse box areas to fit them in a serviceable way.
Either of these style fuse aren't necessarily going to be available at every auto parts store if you're on the road.
Simplest solution is to buy a handful of the OEM fusible link sets at ~$10-15 a pop
BlueSea MRBF style below
George above had posted in all the threads I've read, and his wealth of knowledge is clear.
Midi fuses, or marine style MRBF fuses seen to be the best options.
Both will take quite a bit of alteration to the factory wiring around the battery and fuse box areas to fit them in a serviceable way.
Either of these style fuse aren't necessarily going to be available at every auto parts store if you're on the road.
Simplest solution is to buy a handful of the OEM fusible link sets at ~$10-15 a pop
BlueSea MRBF style below
- Thread starter
- #10
The marine style is what I’m going with but are a resettable fuse.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
It really depends on your situation and what you are running but yes I have removed the fusible link from my vehicle and am using a midi fuse and it has worked great. I am running a shower, compressor, inverter, fridge, etc.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
you can by fusible link wire online, I use this for fj40 work sometimes......
if you simply plan ahead for this possible dooms day scenario , then life can continue normally 24/7....
- purchase at least 2 , maybe 3 if you like OEM Fusible LINKS as much as me
- use BLACK color UV rated ZIP-Ties and squirrel 2 of the 3 away under your hood / in your engine bay in a easy to access and see in the moon-less nights out in perimeter where there are no stars ...
- stash the 3rd one in your OEM Tool Bag or Pouch using a rubber band , make it 2 rubber bands to the main body of your OEM Genuine TOYOTA Parts battery power hand held torch ...
- this way your set up for success from 2 angels , you know plan A and plan B mindset ...
- the simple fact the 80 series fusible links 90982-08264 is still a very active part # on the global price tape and classification code A status , means it gonna be around for a good while still ....
- and if the day ever comes where TOYOTA chooses Poorly ?
- i hear @NLXTACY has that topic covered and well thought out too ......
- lastly , there is a NEW 1991-1997 FJ80 / FZJ80 Fusible Links Parts Sherriff in town part # 90982-00080
- part # 90982-00080 is the Missing-LINK 100% OEM Parts solution for Harness side compromised Connector Plug that often can occur , it's been well documented here on MUD enough , i saw the need to make is a reality , in plentiful amounts too ....
- these are hand assembled
% in-house by the Rising Sun Mechanical Skunk-Works Laboratory … - so on the first day of 2023 it is ...
NOTE : below @NLXTACY doomsday horde just in case
NOTE : part # 90982-00080 Rising Sun Mechanical SKUNK-WORKS Laboratory needed all OEM parts , plug , crimp , and play solution
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This information can be found in the Toyota EWD, which you can download from the resources section.
Fusible links are rated by the color of the flameproof insulator and is a standard in the industry.
A US spec 80 Series has 3 fusible links. PINK, BLACK, and BLUE.
PINK is 30 amp (FL AM2)
BLACK is 80 amp (FL AM1)
BLUE is 100 amp (FL MAIN)
- Thread starter
- #17
Cool. That’s the info I needed, ordering some parts today! Will post when project is complete!
- Thread starter
- #18
I couldn’t open the links u posted. But I would be interested in seeing ur setup if u wouldn’t mind sending some photos
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
A fuse and a fusible link are both fuses. The link is very inconvenient to replace but operates just like a fuse. The fuse, based upon fuse type, can be tailored to your application very easily - that is once you know and understand how each fuse type works.
The fusible link (I believe) is going to be an instantaneous fuse, in other words, once it reaches it current carrying threshold, it will melt. If it is instantaneous, it has no ability to tolerate temporary overloads.
A fuse can be had in a multitude of types. This is important as you can tailor to fuse to your use. As an example, an instantaneous fuse will melt at the fuses given amperage as soon as reaches that value. A time delay fuse will allow a fuse to see or handle a temporary overvoltage without melting provided the overload sits within the fuses time-current curve. A time delay is very useful for applications where there is a high inrush of current at startup, such as for a motor and LEDs. This time delay feature (such as is used in a majority of breakers) is very useful to prevent nuisance tripping or melting of a fuse and will increase reliability.
Breakers are great because they can be reset easily. They are not as predictable as a fuse and will not equal a fuse in protective characteristics in any way. A winch, in my mind, is probably the best application for a breaker in a vehicle as it can be reset several times if the system is overloaded. You may not have multiple fuses on hand to replace and it could leave you stranded. You do sacrifice protection of a fuse however and risk damage to your equipment. (One reason, as an example, that hospitals will not use fuses in their distribution systems as they need to be able to be reset as quickly as possible after an event. The do fuse individual pieces of equipment for additional protection the fuses provide.)
This is a rabbit hole as previously mentioned, lots of information but, as it is very technical, you need to do your homework before jumping in and replacing the link. I would prefer a fuse but the DC world is not where I make my living and it will take time to understand the current flow on the vehicle and DC fuse types. For me, I am going to stick with the links, I just carry two in the rig until I find the time to research it.
It is a much deeper subject than most realize, don't guess if you decide to change.
The fusible link (I believe) is going to be an instantaneous fuse, in other words, once it reaches it current carrying threshold, it will melt. If it is instantaneous, it has no ability to tolerate temporary overloads.
A fuse can be had in a multitude of types. This is important as you can tailor to fuse to your use. As an example, an instantaneous fuse will melt at the fuses given amperage as soon as reaches that value. A time delay fuse will allow a fuse to see or handle a temporary overvoltage without melting provided the overload sits within the fuses time-current curve. A time delay is very useful for applications where there is a high inrush of current at startup, such as for a motor and LEDs. This time delay feature (such as is used in a majority of breakers) is very useful to prevent nuisance tripping or melting of a fuse and will increase reliability.
Breakers are great because they can be reset easily. They are not as predictable as a fuse and will not equal a fuse in protective characteristics in any way. A winch, in my mind, is probably the best application for a breaker in a vehicle as it can be reset several times if the system is overloaded. You may not have multiple fuses on hand to replace and it could leave you stranded. You do sacrifice protection of a fuse however and risk damage to your equipment. (One reason, as an example, that hospitals will not use fuses in their distribution systems as they need to be able to be reset as quickly as possible after an event. The do fuse individual pieces of equipment for additional protection the fuses provide.)
This is a rabbit hole as previously mentioned, lots of information but, as it is very technical, you need to do your homework before jumping in and replacing the link. I would prefer a fuse but the DC world is not where I make my living and it will take time to understand the current flow on the vehicle and DC fuse types. For me, I am going to stick with the links, I just carry two in the rig until I find the time to research it.
It is a much deeper subject than most realize, don't guess if you decide to change.
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↑ no, a fusible link is NOT instantaneous. Fuses are NOT all the same.
Cheers,
George.
Cheers,
George.
