Has anyone mounted a chainsaw to their cruiser?

[cruiserpilot]

I don't have a pic of it mounted on the swing out. I had just finished building it. I have a 372XP and this is with the 18" bush bar.
I can replace the sheath and the 30" bar will fit fine.
For these other guys that mount the bar in the open air, you get dirt and grime all over the bar, and it will grind the chain guide right
out. Just like high speed sand paper.

 

[jonheld]

Chainsaws are hot, filthy, stinky, and leak oil. They are not the type of tool to be kept inside IMO. While the scabbard idea is what many like, I think that the power head needs additional support. I really like the flat platform idea.

 

[superjuice]

Not much for posting here but have taken a number of ideas from you guys. Twice this last archery season I had to cut my way through roads/trails, so I built a bracket to mount a saw over the PS rear wheel well. Can post more detailed pics if anyone wants me to. View attachment 1150653

I would like to see more photos if you get a chance. Looks like you followed the shape of the saw and even added clearance for the handle and fuel fill into the lip. Fuel cans are cool too, well done!

 

[cruiserpilot]

Chainsaws are hot, filthy, stinky, and leak oil. They are not the type of tool to be kept inside IMO. While the scabbard idea is what many like, I think that the power head needs additional support. I really like the flat platform idea.

I agree, that one set up in the rear looks nice, but as soon as you use it, you need somewhere to put it. Hint: Double bagging of the best
garbage bags you can get.
That vertical position I have is used by loggers everywhere, around here you'll see 3-6 of them up on the headache rack just like
mine is. It won't damage it at all, so long as the weight of the saw is on the bottom of the block. I put a piece of 5/8" heater hose
and split it over the edge of the steel basket just to dampen the vibrations.
FYI, I used 16 ga metal, and its' 3/4" wide gap to hold the plastic blade protector.

 

[jonheld]

I agree, that one set up in the rear looks nice, but as soon as you use it, you need somewhere to put it. Hint: Double bagging of the best
garbage bags you can get.
That vertical position I have is used by loggers everywhere, around here you'll see 3-6 of them up on the headache rack just like
mine is. It won't damage it at all, so long as the weight of the saw is on the bottom of the block. I put a piece of 5/8" heater hose
and split it over the edge of the steel basket just to dampen the vibrations.
FYI, I used 16 ga metal, and its' 3/4" wide gap to hold the plastic blade protector.

So the power head is resting on the edge of the basket? Hard to see in the picture. Looks really cool and easy to fab.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Yeah, I trimmed the plastic collar down. This was taken just as I was finishing up. I welded a 1/2" angle to the inner lip of the
16 ga box to give it structure and enough of a platform for the head of the saw. Then the hose goes over that.

 

[Scalpel]

A little more info on the mount over the wheel well...

This saw isn't something I intend to use often or hard. It'll see occasional use at most, so if I have to smell a hot saw a couple of times a year, not a big deal to me. It does take up cargo space, but I don't often pack stuff over the wheel well. I didn't like the idea of storing it outside or using the third row grab handle anchor sites because it seems too visible to me and might invite theft. I have loppers and a bow saw secured to the third row grab handle anchor points anyway.

I used the third row seat anchor to secure the tray. The single bolt on top of the third row seat anchor is not level - it sits at about 11 degrees. I took a short segment of 1" square tube steel and using a cutoff saw, opened the tube longitudinally. I put this in a vice, crimped it together, and welded it. Came out at 9 degrees. Close enough. I welded this to the base and then turned my attention to the rear anchor points. Using the same bar of 1" square tube steel, I cut wedges into the pipe, bent and rewelded it until it held the tray level and the holes lined up. I tucked the whole outfit as far forward and to the side as I could.

As far as the bracket, I started with a piece of scrap sheet metal and then used a 1" flat bar to outline the perimeter of the saw, giving it a tray to sit in. I welded this to the sheet metal and then decided a bungee was the simplest way to secure it. I don't compete with my LC or get too crazy with it, so a rollover is unlikely, but I like the idea of having it secured.

With the saw mounted, I rounded up a couple of MSM bottles - one for bar oil and the other for 2-cycle mix. They fit reasonably well into a short piece of ABS pipe. The short segments of pipe were placed in ABS caps that were anchored to the sheet metal with three short bolts each (& epoxy). I then ran a piece of bungee over the bottles to keep them in place.

I then welded a carriage bolt to the sheet metal that was long enough to stick through the bar tool. The bar tool slips over the carriage bolt and a wing nut welded to a washer holds it in place.

Finally, I built a small box out of sheet metal and welded it to the base so I could store an extra chain.

I've attached a couple of extra pictures, but they're pretty dark.