Harrop E-Locker install questions

[B Todd]

I bit the bullet and decided to buy a Harrop E-locker. I decided to do some of the labor myself and pull the third member and ship it to Ken at gearinstalls.com. I've never pulled a third before, I'm hoping the forum could help me along the way.

I have the third out and ready to ship. I had a stud come out with the nut on one of the diff studs. Is there a torque spec to use to install a new stud? Should I use lock tight?

I have a new diff gasket on the way. Should I use gasket or sealant?

Is there a trick to put the axles back in, or will it be pretty obvious?

What would be a good wire to use for an ignition hot source?

Thanks in advance and I'll keep thread updated through process.

 

[gearinstalls.com]

paper gasket

 

[Dirty Koala]

Paper Gasket and a thin smear of RTV.

The axles slide back in easy, just be aware of the oil seals in the axles, you want to be carefull when putting the axles in that you dont booger up the seals.

 

[ewillis]

Permatex Ultra Grey.

Oh yes I did! Harrop/Eaton E-Locker thread

 

[-Spike-]

I had a stud come out with the nut on one of the diff studs. Is there a torque spec to use to install a new stud? Should I use lock tight?

I have a new diff gasket on the way. Should I use gasket or sealant?

Both of these questions will get you differing opinions. Mine-

No, the torque on the nut is applied through the fastener. Finger tight is good. Lock tight is not necessary.

The paper gasket can walk out and leak if you wheel the truck hard. FIPG doesn't.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Don't know @-Spike- . I've had RTV get loose too on 80 fronts. The factory paper gasket seems to bind to the metal and not cause any problems and if you put RTV on it, it doesn't seal as well because it walks around. My conclusion is that RTV is a bit slippery here. Important to check the differential mounting nuts frequently, especially 80 fronts.

The down side of paper gaskets is that if you install yourself, under the truck, it's easy to ruin the gasket and crack it as you install.

Toyota RTV on the other hand, seems to not cause any problems. It's stiffer, hasn't failed yet for me and is an excellent choice.

Regarding the mounting studs, I agree. Just sort of tight, no locking compound. The lower ones get scraped and damaged so you'll be replacing again. Don't make that job too hard with thread locker.

 

[bigredmachine]

I had a stud come out with the nut on one of the diff studs. Is there a torque spec to use to install a new stud? Should I use lock tight?

I have a new diff gasket on the way. Should I use gasket or sealant?

Is there a trick to put the axles back in, or will it be pretty obvious?

What would be a good wire to use for an ignition hot source?

there is no torque spec on the stud, when they come out with the nut still on I reinstall it with the nut that's stuck on the stud. locktit is not required as per fsm

I would go with paper personally but if you decide to go with a a sealant use red fipg as it is compatible with gear oil and will last longer than black fipg

pretty straight forward, just be careful of tha axle seal on the way in.

 

[B Todd]

I got the diff back and it's in the housing. FSM says to torque the diff housing to 54 foot lbs. Is this correct? Thanks.

 

[-Spike-]

I got the diff back and it's in the housing. FSM says to torque the diff housing to 54 foot lbs. Is this correct? Thanks.

Holy crap no. 18 foot pounds. 54 is the driveshaft bolts.

 

[B Todd]

This thread also said 54 foot pounds. I'm not being condensending. 54 sounds like a lot to me as well.
Differential Torque Spec

 

[-Spike-]

Dunno what to tell you, my FSM says 18. You put 54 on those and they will strip or break, damn near guaranteed.

EDIT- 18 on the front, 54 on the rear, my mistake.

 

[-Spike-]

The rear diff nuts take 54 foot pounds. Not the front. My mistake.

 

[B Todd]

Thanks for taking the time to look it up. Seemed like a lot to me, then I read the response by Tools and thought it must be correct. Worried about breaking a stud so I'll take it slow.

 

[Dirty Koala]

According to my 97 FSM, the front carrier torque spec is 20 ft-lbs, the rear carrier is 54 ft-lbs.