that angle would not work an any uni joint would it????
Builds Hardcore ROTM - PROJECT RASCAL - July 2005 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rascal
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Rascal
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- Thread starter
- #362
Poser said:" max working angle for a 1350 ujoint" -22 degrees, according to Jess...
I had to go to a 1350CV, and I am running a HI 9....
and IIRC he said max on that was 42 degrees...
Looks awsome Bruce!
Look forward to seeing this in November.
-Steve
Thanks Steve,
That's what I was thinking...
I'll bring the shaft in tomorrow and get them to rebuild it w/ a CV.
that 42 degrees was a Jessie shaft, I am not sure what can be done with a conventional 1350 CV....
Pretty sure you will need to change that output on the tcase to a flange also...
GREAT talking with you man! Thanks for calling me back!
-Steve
Pretty sure you will need to change that output on the tcase to a flange also...
GREAT talking with you man! Thanks for calling me back!
-Steve
Bruce, limit it for now and then send the shaft back to Jess for a 1410 non CV. It does 42* and will never break on you.
He will cut you a great deal on just swapping the yokes. He also has the 1410 Atlas output.
Skip the CV you won't be needing it.
Looks like we nailed the spring rate.
Remember, coil springs are there mostly for the ride height you want. They are not going to be too soft. YOu have PLENTY of uptravel and the truck sits perfect.
I LOVE THE FULL TUB and you have a ton of room for gear too!
I am so happy for you.
Man, Ed came in UNDER budget? That would never happen to me
He will cut you a great deal on just swapping the yokes. He also has the 1410 Atlas output.
Skip the CV you won't be needing it.
Looks like we nailed the spring rate.
Remember, coil springs are there mostly for the ride height you want. They are not going to be too soft. YOu have PLENTY of uptravel and the truck sits perfect.
I LOVE THE FULL TUB and you have a ton of room for gear too!
I am so happy for you.
Man, Ed came in UNDER budget? That would never happen to me
After looking some more, is there room for you to clock the Atlas down some? YOu said you had gobs of room under there, that would give you some relief on that angle as well.
Still think 1410 in the rear, at least on the Tcase end, is the answer.
Still think 1410 in the rear, at least on the Tcase end, is the answer.
Did not mean clock I meant "point"
Mine sits at an angle in the chassis for when I ran a standard output rear axle......
Mine sits at an angle in the chassis for when I ran a standard output rear axle......
Cool deal. Glad the joints that Mark made up worked well for you. I know Mark is closed to finishing up his 4-link as well. He had a slight set back with his axle falling off the jack stands when cycling the links. We set up the 4 link a little different. The bottom links are on the inside of the frame as well as the top links. Either way it's a clean job hope it works well for you.
Rascal
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- Thread starter
- #370
wngrog said:Bruce, limit it for now and then send the shaft back to Jess for a 1410 non CV. It does 42* and will never break on you.
He will cut you a great deal on just swapping the yokes. He also has the 1410 Atlas output.
Skip the CV you won't be needing it.
Looks like we nailed the spring rate.
Remember, coil springs are there mostly for the ride height you want. They are not going to be too soft. YOu have PLENTY of uptravel and the truck sits perfect.
I LOVE THE FULL TUB and you have a ton of room for gear too!
I am so happy for you.
Man, Ed came in UNDER budget? That would never happen to me
Not sure how a larger ujoint would help. I looked under there tonight and the two yokes are actually touching each other and thas sitting flat. If the rear axle droops any at all it's going to bind. My pinion angle is set to 22 degrees. The only way I know to get beyond that angle is a CV on the tcase end.
Help me out here guys.
Jess is a good option.
Can you point the Tcase down more like Nolen said?
Another idea - can you relieve the yoke some to clear the ubolts?
Another option might be a Tom Woods high angle ujoint?
Maybe all three?
Ed
Can you point the Tcase down more like Nolen said?
Another idea - can you relieve the yoke some to clear the ubolts?
Another option might be a Tom Woods high angle ujoint?
Maybe all three?
Ed
What joint are you currently running?
I have a Toy CV on my rig and it seems to hold up well....
1410 is a good option tho..
The bigger U joint is just like Jimbros setup. Larger joint = more angularity available as long as the yoke allows it..
I have a Toy CV on my rig and it seems to hold up well....
1410 is a good option tho..
The bigger U joint is just like Jimbros setup. Larger joint = more angularity available as long as the yoke allows it..
Rascal said:Not sure how a larger ujoint would help. I looked under there tonight and the two yokes are actually touching each other and thas sitting flat. If the rear axle droops any at all it's going to bind. My pinion angle is set to 22 degrees. The only way I know to get beyond that angle is a CV on the tcase end.
Call Jess in the morning.
Put and angle finder on your tcase and see what your drivetrain is sitting at. 0, +1, +2, -1,-2, etc.... he will want that info, along with your pinion angle...
He will need to know this info for any option...1410/1350CV, etc.
good luck!
-Steve
Yep, larger Ujoint will give you a longer space between the yoke and the ujoint.
I really am a firm believer in 1410 in the rear of a 1 ton truck. I have gotten away for YEARS with 1310-1350 in the front, but in the rear, 1410 holds up under severe abuse.
The shaft is not a throw away either, the majority of the $$ ou have in it will be able to be reused for a 1410 shaft.
I really am a firm believer in 1410 in the rear of a 1 ton truck. I have gotten away for YEARS with 1310-1350 in the front, but in the rear, 1410 holds up under severe abuse.
The shaft is not a throw away either, the majority of the $$ ou have in it will be able to be reused for a 1410 shaft.
Eskimo
SILVER Star
The larger joint in itself doesn't necessarily offer more angularity.. 1310's actually have slightly more angle of operation (AOO) than a stock 1350. BUT....
Jesse can do the 42* 1350 CV which would CERTAINLY take care of that problem... Or, like Nolen said, the 1410 non-CV.. (I am 97% sure he can also do a 42* 1410 CV).
I ran into the same problems you've having, which is why my skid had to drop 1.75" under the frame rails.. to drop the back of the t-case down. I'm running 24-25* static on a clearanced Toy CV, which has a max angle of 32*. You bet I've got a taut center limit strap now.
(During mockup, I didn't have one, and the front driveline guy lifted the rig by the frame.. I promptly spit a cap on my first run, presumably from crushed needle bearings)
I will say that I LOVE having the CV back there now.. never had one before on this rig, and it's soooo much smoother now. I'd try and keep a CV, be it 1350 or 1410.
HTH!
Jesse can do the 42* 1350 CV which would CERTAINLY take care of that problem... Or, like Nolen said, the 1410 non-CV.. (I am 97% sure he can also do a 42* 1410 CV).
I ran into the same problems you've having, which is why my skid had to drop 1.75" under the frame rails.. to drop the back of the t-case down. I'm running 24-25* static on a clearanced Toy CV, which has a max angle of 32*. You bet I've got a taut center limit strap now.
(During mockup, I didn't have one, and the front driveline guy lifted the rig by the frame.. I promptly spit a cap on my first run, presumably from crushed needle bearings)
I will say that I LOVE having the CV back there now.. never had one before on this rig, and it's soooo much smoother now. I'd try and keep a CV, be it 1350 or 1410.
HTH!
I outta grab measurements on mine, but I have no problems with clearance and such with my stock minitruck CV....heck, it's even stock mini LENGTH, just swapped the slip for a Cruiser one to match the pinion pattern...
Bruce,
Your truck looks outstanding! Well done for both you and Ed! I do like how you kept the frame intact. Man that thing looks huge now! Not quite the same truck I saw at Round up this year. It will be cool to hear how it spanks the rocks! I am keeping an eye on your spring rate, mine are set at 250/300 and I keep saying they are too stiff. (not on the truck yet but seams just too stiff.)
I have been monster swamped, my truck has been put aside temp. as other shop demands come first. (Problem owning the shop, your junk is always #48 on the list!) I will get some photos up once I can spend some time dropping down the 1 MB photos.
Mark
Your truck looks outstanding! Well done for both you and Ed! I do like how you kept the frame intact. Man that thing looks huge now! Not quite the same truck I saw at Round up this year. It will be cool to hear how it spanks the rocks! I am keeping an eye on your spring rate, mine are set at 250/300 and I keep saying they are too stiff. (not on the truck yet but seams just too stiff.)
I have been monster swamped, my truck has been put aside temp. as other shop demands come first. (Problem owning the shop, your junk is always #48 on the list!) I will get some photos up once I can spend some time dropping down the 1 MB photos.
Mark