Builds Hardcore ROTM - PROJECT RASCAL - July 2005 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Rascal
- Start date
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Rascal
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- Thread starter
- #103
Got the transmission 
So I got started putting the Engine/transmission/tcase back in. Found that with the late model tub, I've got a pretty good amount of space. I've got the Atlas clocked down a good bit and I will still have a completely flat belly (insert joke here). The engine is to passneger about 3/4" to make sure I've got clearance for my steering shaft and PS pump.
So I got started putting the Engine/transmission/tcase back in. Found that with the late model tub, I've got a pretty good amount of space. I've got the Atlas clocked down a good bit and I will still have a completely flat belly (insert joke here). The engine is to passneger about 3/4" to make sure I've got clearance for my steering shaft and PS pump.
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Rascal
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- Thread starter
- #109
Now time for a Shiner Blonde - which some of you voted for. Yup - this is the LSLC kegerator.
I'm taking a break until tomorrow - PLEASE give me your thoughts and opinions on how this looks. This is the first time I've done this and I really would appreciate your thoughts.
I'm taking a break until tomorrow - PLEASE give me your thoughts and opinions on how this looks. This is the first time I've done this and I really would appreciate your thoughts.
Rascal
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- Thread starter
- #110
One question: The flexplate that I got for my 95 TBI Chevy 350 has 168 teeth, which is what the flywheel had and bolts perfectly to the crank shaft. The bolt holes on the flexplate for the torque convertor are 10" on center. The Torque convertor that i got has the bolt holes on a 9 1/2" center. Does anyone know what the bolt pattern measurement should be? The transmission is a 700R4.
Rascal said:
Wow that iss wierd, just wnt to the garage to measure one and the flexplate on a 93 or 94 tbi there a two sets of holes. One of which are slotted to fit either 9 1/4 apart holes on the converter or 10" the second set of holes are 10" apart. The flexplate on the late 80's tpi 350, there is only one set of holes 10" apart. Don't know about tooth count and ain't going to count this late at night
!! The bolt holes on the torque convertor on the 700R4 out there are 9 1/4 apart.
Man, fast work!
not sure how much tweaking you want to do with heights of the driveline, but as low in the frame rails as possible is always better....my tranny pan clears by 3/8" and I "think" my motor sits lower....I'd have to measure tho....
love those motor mounts, my frame-side brackets aren't nearly that nice...
love those motor mounts, my frame-side brackets aren't nearly that nice...
Eskimo
SILVER Star
I would say since you've got room, lower the whole shooting match.. it'll help your CoG and your driveline angles.. Oh, Woody said the same thing.. oops.
But yeah, those motor mounts look great! is the frame boxed in where they are welded to? *right-clicky, save as...)
But yeah, those motor mounts look great! is the frame boxed in where they are welded to? *right-clicky, save as...)
Rascal
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- #115
DavidW said:Wow that iss wierd, just wnt to the garage to measure one and the flexplate on a 93 or 94 tbi there a two sets of holes. One of which are slotted to fit either 9 1/4 apart holes on the converter or 10" the second set of holes are 10" apart. The flexplate on the late 80's tpi 350, there is only one set of holes 10" apart. Don't know about tooth count and ain't going to count this late at night
Thanks Dave,
I'm going to check a couple of things today. I have to pull the whole thing out again one last time. so the next time it goes in it will have a complete drive train!
Rascal
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- Thread starter
- #117
woody said:
Eskimo said:
Thanks - I appreciate the compliments and feed back!
Right now the motor sits at 0 degrees front to back - I tried to address the spring compression by dropping the engine onto a ratchet strap that I put between the two frame rails. I believe that a I want the engine tilting 2 - 3 degrees to the rear - right? My plan is to gain this small amount of tilt by dropping the Atlas down a bit.
My Atlas is clocked down a good bit to fit it up into the hump in the tub. So even though the transmission pan is pretty high, the bottom of the Atlas is only about 3/4" above the bottom of the frame rails.
Do you think the engine looks like it is sitting too high? It is pretty close to where it was before i pulled it out - not that that means anything.
Yes, the frame is boxed with 1/4" plate. I made the plate on the DS about 1' long as this is the side that I patched (shown previously) and wanted to add as much strength as possible.
my D300 is ~1/4" off the skid, the tranny pan is ~3/8-1/2" or so....ie: both are pretty tight, but the flat and thick alum skid (3/8") lets it flex up to them and not do any damage....other than slide along.
IIRC, my driveline is level, no angling at all...the tranny pan is the same height off the skid throughout (or, closer than I can measure anyways.....lol)
IIRC, my driveline is level, no angling at all...the tranny pan is the same height off the skid throughout (or, closer than I can measure anyways.....lol)
Eskimo
SILVER Star
Mine, as measured from the rear output flange, is 3* down from front to rear. Needed to do this because of rear driveline. But, next round, it will be flat, and lower. I don't really think the driveline needs to have any angle on it, since we operate them on *slightly* uneven terrain..
I'm gonna be running a 3/16" steel skid, because of alum. source didn't come through for me.. Woddy - how does the rig slide with aluminum? All the nay-sayers say it will dig in...
I'm gonna be running a 3/16" steel skid, because of alum. source didn't come through for me.. Woddy - how does the rig slide with aluminum? All the nay-sayers say it will dig in...