I have a stock 79 2F, save for a Weber 38 carb. it has started fine for the last 2 years, but is starting to be hard to start. It will crank real strong, and after about 15 sec, it sputters, and then cranks, sputters, cranks, sputters, and then will start to run, but you have to keep the ignition in the starter position for a few seconds to keep it running. After it starts, it runs fine, idles fine. It does seem to lag slightly at lower revs, and the car wont accelarate in 4th gear at all, but I am not sure what it can be. i am going to perform a compression test when I have some time, hopefully tonight.
Hard To Start 2f
- Thread starter a79yota
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check vacuum lines?
Based on what you have written, it sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Your carb may need a tuneup.
Pinion said:
X2 this was my next suggestion.
Just curious, Do you have the Weber carb already or you are still saving for it?
Tigerstripe40
SILVER Star
If you have a bad ballast resistor or one that is going bad, the ignition isn't getting enough juice to make spark when it's running. By leaving the key in the crank position, you are effectively bypassing the ballast resistor, and giving the coil full power during cranking.
I'd bypass that resistor, and see if it's still hard to start.
I'd bypass that resistor, and see if it's still hard to start.
carb
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Check the accelerator pump in your carb.
- Thread starter
- #10
Tha carb was on their when I bought the truck. It was actually on my wish list before I realized I already had one( i really am green) An interesting development, the engine cranks and wont start for awhile, but only in the morning. after that, for the rest of the day, it seems to start fine. I can smell gas when is cranking, and it has an auto choke on it, so I am not sure how to turn it off. By the by, how do you check the accelerator pump, and is their any good reading, schematics for this carb. I did print the info off the tech links page, but I was looking for something more in depth.
Sounds like it could be either too rich or too lean.
Figuring out which: Take off the air cleaner and pour a half teaspoon full of gas down the throat. If that makes it worse it's too rich - better, too lean. If, when you then hit the starter it roars to life then quits... you just burned that teaspoon. (Don't try to fix a sticky float by pouring too much in, it can backfire and cause an engine fire.)
Too lean, but only at start - check the accellerator pump. With the air cleaner off, hand pull the throatle linkage. When you "floor it," you should get a squirt of gas down the throatle's throat - you'll be able to hear and see it.
Too lean: Cruisers have a problem with overheating (boiling away the gas). Do you have the fan under the hood? (Does it work?)
To get ahead of the too lean, you could check float level sight before you start it --- is there fuel when it sitting or is it all boiled away... The long crank could be getting enough fuel back to the carb to reach an appropriate starting fuel mixture.
Too rich - float could be sunk.
Figuring out which: Take off the air cleaner and pour a half teaspoon full of gas down the throat. If that makes it worse it's too rich - better, too lean. If, when you then hit the starter it roars to life then quits... you just burned that teaspoon. (Don't try to fix a sticky float by pouring too much in, it can backfire and cause an engine fire.)
Too lean, but only at start - check the accellerator pump. With the air cleaner off, hand pull the throatle linkage. When you "floor it," you should get a squirt of gas down the throatle's throat - you'll be able to hear and see it.
Too lean: Cruisers have a problem with overheating (boiling away the gas). Do you have the fan under the hood? (Does it work?)
To get ahead of the too lean, you could check float level sight before you start it --- is there fuel when it sitting or is it all boiled away... The long crank could be getting enough fuel back to the carb to reach an appropriate starting fuel mixture.
Too rich - float could be sunk.
I'll be around off and on and will check the thread to see if I can be of assistance.
Go for it and good luck.
Go for it and good luck.
- Thread starter
- #14
I messed with it as much as possible, but I think I need to check all the vacoum lines and mating surfaces. Its better, but not right. I work at a car dealership, in service, I am just going to have one of our techs work on it. Thanks for the help.
If ur smelling gas, I'll bet u need a new fuel pump. One banana job for about $125.00. Look under the 40 near right front tire and along the frame behind the battary area for damp and wet areas; feel under the fuel pump, if its wet; get a new one.
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