Okay, so the old 77 has been having alot of work done on it recently and when i replaced the radiator I thought i fixed one of the existing problems for about 3 months. The problem was that when i killed the engine it would turn off and try to fire back up 3-6 times and then create this loud depressurizing sound. Well I took a look under the hood and it appeared like some fuel lines were out of place and detached, so i reattached everything to what it APPEARED to go to and all was fine for another few days. Then when i went to shut it off after getting home today and she did not want to turn off. So i checked the lines again and they were all fine and attached. I only take the cruiser about 4 miles to and from school so i doubt its an overheating problem. has anyone else encountered this?
Hard time killing the engine. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Elishallen
- Start date
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Check the idle solenoid.
When you turn on the key, you should hear a "click" at the carburetor. If this circuit doesn't shut off, your engine could run on.
It is an easy check. It will take you about 30 sec.
I am not sure if your engine will start normally if the solenoid doesn't engage when you try and start the engine.
Rocky
When you turn on the key, you should hear a "click" at the carburetor. If this circuit doesn't shut off, your engine could run on.
It is an easy check. It will take you about 30 sec.
I am not sure if your engine will start normally if the solenoid doesn't engage when you try and start the engine.
Rocky
Check to see that the idle solenoid hasn't been wired to an unswitched power source.
To do this, pull the wire to the solenoid. Measure the voltage with the ignition in the off position and the run position. It should be around 12v in RUN and 0v in OFF.
To do this, pull the wire to the solenoid. Measure the voltage with the ignition in the off position and the run position. It should be around 12v in RUN and 0v in OFF.
- Thread starter
- #5
I dont think it is the solenoid because it does not happen everytime i turn the truck off. But ill be sure to check on it tomorrow afternoon. And give you all some more details.
When you turn the ignition off, the power to the coil and points go away. That should cause it to stop running, but the idle solenoid is there as a backup. If you hot wired the solenoid, it would stop running sometime but not always, especially when hot.
- Thread starter
- #7
That would explain it trying to crank up again. Do you also think that this causes the frightening depressurizing noise?
When you say "crank up" do you mean that the starter is engaging or that it just keeps running roughly for a few seconds? If it's the latter, that's probably dieseling meaning that it is running without a spark. And yes, I've heard that depressurizing noise before when dieseling.
My '77 was doing the same thing until I rebuilt the carb.
When was the last time the carb was rebuilt?
When was the last time the carb was rebuilt?
When I encountered this issue the root cause was a bent needle on my idle cutoff solenoid. It initially started as an intermittent issue and then progressively got more consistent. This is an extremely odd condition and I am puzzled as to how it occurred. I did not ever remove the solenoid and it just does not seem possible that it would get bent - all it does is move in and out. The root cause mystery aside, when I removed the solenoid from the carb it was clear the needle had a slight bend in it. I replaced the solenoid and have not had any issues since.
Did you mean vacuum lines or fuel lines? I would think that if you had fuel lines disconnected you'd be asking why your rig caught on fire.
The vacuum lines disconnected and the earlier post that talked about carb rebuilds got me to thinking about another possibility. If you had multiple vacuum lines disconnected, you would probably have had to crank up the idle speed just to keep it running. Once you do that, the idle circuit in the carb is out of the picture and the solenoid won't do its job. That could easily cause run-on.
This seems more likely than the solenoid being hot-wired or stuck open like the previous poster.
If your solenoid is not hot-wired (easy to check), I would start by doing a couple of adjustments on your carb. Get the idle speed and idle mixture set up properly. There are a bunch of posts on how to do this.
- Thread starter
- #12
I am new to the automotive game, i probably meant vacuum lines. could you all tell me what the small cylindrical objects are in the first and third images? Also i would like to know what the object in the center of the second image is and what it does. And i think that the hose in my hand in the first picture goes on the object displayed in the second image, am i correct?
Wish I could help but I'm not the vacuum expert. My rig doesn't have any of this smog stuff. What I CAN tell you is that if those lines are disconnected without being capped off, it will not run right. I think that you need to try to find a vacuum diagram for your year and see if you can't get them connected up right. And while you are at it, replace any old, stiff, or cracked ones (like every one in your pictures) because they will leak even if they are connected right. Vacuum hose is cheap and this is a good way for you and your rig to spend some quality time together...
- Thread starter
- #14
Sundays to do list: finish speaker boxes and start the vacuum lines from scratch haha. Thanks. Could you look at these new pictures and tell me what the previous owner was trying to accomplish? The capped hose is attached on to the lower metal tube in second image and im not sure what is goes to in the third image, i just thought it may help a little.
Looks like someone has been messing with your vacuum lines. Can you take a picture of your engine bay, specifically the driver's side to show vacuum and emissions components? Also take a picture of your carb. What is the build date of your Cruiser? If you have the emissions sticker on the underside of the hood, is it a black background or white background?
Now, you say you have a '77 so here is the emissions diagrams you need:
It appears that in your current setup you will have vacuum leaks that may be causing problems.
Post 12 picture 1 shows two Vacuum Switching Valves (VSVs).
Post 12 picture 2 shows the Gas Filter.
Post 12 picture 3 shows the Vacuum Control Valves (VCVs).
Post 14 pictures 2 and 3 shows the two metallic fuel lines. One is the supply, and should be coming out of the side of the fuel pump (lower passenger side of engine) up more to the driver's side of the carburetor. The return comes off the side of the carburetor (more to the passenger side), comes down by the fuel pump and turns into a soft line (maybe the one shown in picture 1?) that goes back to the fuel tank.
Now, you say you have a '77 so here is the emissions diagrams you need:
It appears that in your current setup you will have vacuum leaks that may be causing problems.
Post 12 picture 1 shows two Vacuum Switching Valves (VSVs).
Post 12 picture 2 shows the Gas Filter.
Post 12 picture 3 shows the Vacuum Control Valves (VCVs).
Post 14 pictures 2 and 3 shows the two metallic fuel lines. One is the supply, and should be coming out of the side of the fuel pump (lower passenger side of engine) up more to the driver's side of the carburetor. The return comes off the side of the carburetor (more to the passenger side), comes down by the fuel pump and turns into a soft line (maybe the one shown in picture 1?) that goes back to the fuel tank.
X2. Based on the pics and the pics in your other thread about the fuel smell and damaged vapor separator, someone has seriously jerry-rigged your emissions stuff. Time to go through it all step by step.
Do you have a charcoal canister hooked up? It will be on the passenger side fender. The top line of your vapor separator (THIS THREAD) should go to one port, and the other port should go to the VSV on the fender.
Dieseling is caused by the throttle plates being open. Check the timing first, and then set the carb. first the idle mixture adjustment, then the idle speed. 99% of the dieseling I have seen has been caused by this, Someone adjusted the carb wrong, and then set the idle up to compensate. Or retarded the timing and set the idle up. Hope this helps.
I think he needs to check his vacuum lines first, then yep, this is a good list to follow. You'll be running in no time
Could have had the idle set up with the vacuum lines off, also.
