half door build thread

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Joined
May 2, 2009
Threads
14
Messages
161
Location
salt lake city
so my buddy R.T. had some spare doors that were a bit mangled from a rollover. now, R.T. saw the value in these doors, but his honey didn't share his feelings. he got fired up one day and was cleaning up the garage, the doors over in a corner.i decided to try to make some half doors out of em. the situation was mutually benificial, i got to practice on his doors and he got the doors out of the garage.

i started by stripping the doors out pretty much completely. handles, locks, glass, channels, rubber, doorstop. i left the latching device and the hinges on though. save the parts for the time being.

next i measured for the cuts. i wanted to leave the latch and the hinges on, so those became the starting points. i left just enough door above each to feel warm and fuzzy, and to make sure the latch had plenty of room to move. now measuring was a pain....the outside of the door is curved, but the inside was pretty flat. i used the bends in the door to create a baseline i guess. i wanted my cuts to look level to the bends in the door. the trick seemed to be getting the door mounted somehow in the same position while you cut/weld. i mounted my door so the inside face of the door was level verticaly, and the bend on the door level horizontally.

i used levels to make sure the tops of the doors were pretty parallel to each other, marked it up and then got the cutoff disk and the grinder. i cut the outside of the door first. thats where i did the measuring from and all of my lines were there too. after butchering with the disk on the curved side, i eyeballed about where level should be,then added an inch. then i rough cut the inside. now heres where the mounting comes in...I used a framing square on the inside door to get it level with the outside cut. now it took a little time,but if you work the square just right. you can measure the starting points, and get a pretty accurate cut on the inside.you will find the door has big holes from the factory for access to parts.

after making sure the inside and outside was gonna line up i bent up a piece of sheet metal.just a c shaped bend.then zapped it onto place for the lowermost section. i hid one of the flanges behind the outer section of the door, and welded it to the inside of the door.the other flange i sat on top of the inner door like a cap,and welded the inside of the door to it. its much the same for the transition pieces, except the front of the door will have a radius. i bent one flange in a piece of metal, and held it in place to mark the curve. then i measured about 3/4" extra metal, and cut it out. the extra 3/4" i cut into tabs and bent using pliers. it didn't have to be pretty, it was going on the inside of the door anyway.
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more pictures
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i made all the transition peices longer than needed, and marked some bends to have them cap the cuts above the latch and hinge. i welded them in long. after they were welded into the door i cut/ground the extra to match the shape of the door.


now your gonna wanna open and close these doors so you gotta install the hoor handle. i used the rod/linkage to mark a place to install. on R.T.'s the passenger door had a handle close to the latch, and one for the person in the front seat. i used the one closest to the latch. the drivers side was a bit different. i had to position the handle differently, but basicly in the same place. i did have to bend uo the rod/linkage and cut it for the drivers side too. If'n your feeling crafty you could probably find a half dozen places and ways to make the latch work. this was easy and used parts he had.
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I felt a little out of place in the craft store....but i found some thin batting and some fabric. i snagged some masonite from the home depot. a 4'x4' sheet did two doors.I used the doors to mark a template and cut the masonite to fit. then i glued in the batting and stretched the fabric over the batting and glued it the masonite on the back side. i used a few clamps to hold it while the glue dried. i used some tacky glue stuff i got at the craft store.It was just a thicker version of elmers glue. at this point or perhaps even earlier you might wanna go to auto parts place and see if you can get some of the clips/retainers real professionals use to hide mounting the panel. R.T. had no such luck... his were gonna be screwed on.
 
pictures
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Pretty cool, keep the pics coming. I have a spare set of doors that I wanna do this with as well.

But one thing I can't figure out is how to make the swap easy from full to half doors. I'm upgrading my interior to power windows and power locks, and I will also have some nice speakers in the doors. Not sure how to cleanly unplug all the wires.
 
the doors good ol R.T. gave me were crumpled pretty bad. they were on a truck that was rolled. most of the real crumpling was on the drivers side towards the top of the door. i hacked a lot of it out, some i hit with a hammer to get strait, but i was feeling real crafty so i got me a can of bondo.I never worked with this stuff before. i'm gonna end up puttin some on another project so i figured it would be good practice.

I prepped by taking all the paint/primer off with a wire wheel. time consuming but worked great. i wont bore you with my misadventures in bondo but i didn't have enough to really get the lines i wanted. I know the forums have great sections on body work, written by folks that know what they are doing.....but this isn't one of em. i didn't take the time to get crazy sanding,priming,sanding,priming,wetsanding,base,clear etc etc.
nope, ol' R.T. got himself a rattle can paint job over some primer.as a matter of fact black paint was on sale at the dollar store....so his doors were black. the final steps were to get the weather stripping an the bottom and attach the door skins with some screws.

now i've seen all sorts of other stuff on em, cupholders, bars.some cut at different heights,some with the window frame some without. do whatever you want. i'd bet you could hack the top hinge off too. the door is pretty stinkin light without windows and locks and stuff. there are posts on the 'mud fourms about making your own sheetmetal brakes. and the sheet metal itself is pretty cheap. all ya really need is a welder and some doors.
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some more pictures
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Pretty cool, keep the pics coming. I have a spare set of doors that I wanna do this with as well.

But one thing I can't figure out is how to make the swap easy from full to half doors. I'm upgrading my interior to power windows and power locks, and I will also have some nice speakers in the doors. Not sure how to cleanly unplug all the wires.

use contacts in the doors - hot rodder trick. You'll only have power to the door when closed, but makes all of the issues of changing doors go away.
 
use contacts in the doors - hot rodder trick. You'll only have power to the door when closed, but makes all of the issues of changing doors go away.

I looked at those. My thinking is they are mostly for show cars that never see much actual time in the weather. The hinge cavity in our doors is not sealed, rain and snow/ice gets in there, and I'm sure after a year or two those contact will be all crusty and become a maintenance nuisance to keep working.
 
Nice job on the half doors.

Sliding doors on Doge Caravans have the same stye of contacts and last for years.
 
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