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axle job...
fzj80 full floating rear, 63" wms to wms
lots of brackets to cut
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had been all over the board about how I was going to address the width issue, finally cut the short side down by 3 1/4". gunna go nitro cut to length short side elock capable shelf kept shaft. it come 28.9" long to match the 80 series short side and can be cut down to 21.5 and still retain locker capabilities. I am going to cut it to 26.5", 3 1/4" shorter than stock, 3 3/4" wider than factory 55 rear, 2 3/4" wider than pig front. 1 1/2" spacers for now till I go to 30 spline birfs, then I will have a custom short side made for the front and stretch it 2 3/4"-3", or 59 3/4 matching the rear-60" matching a 60 series front and keeping a slightly wider track in the front than the rear...
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by using the factory 80 series elocking shaft, and an earlier third with only the left side side gear in place mounted into the housing, I fed the hub/axle assy into the housing and into the side gear, then was able to line up the stub to the housing and weld it in working slowly around the clock. I booty fabbed a lip to set inside of the axle housing on the stub spindle I had cut off to aid in line up. I feel pretty good about things so far. now I'll need to get and cut the new shaft and some perches to burn in and then remove the rear circuit residual pressure valve in the brake master cylinder and slap it in. Then I'll need to build the locker harness.
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Lambcrusher,

Sorry I don't know anything about an 80 axle, is that ring gear and pickup, part of the E-locker? it sure looks good though.
 
the notches at the inside edge of the hubs are the toner teeth for the abs system...haven't decide what to do with them just yet...I figure one could pulse for speed and the other for milage.....might work with some digital guages....prolly wont do a thing with em;) but this axles disk rotors have e brake drums built in...I could toss in just about any LC third and I have full float. I have thought about using the Elocker up front after some 30 spline birfs, and then just run the rear open and not worry about twisting a shaft between the side gear and locker cog...:rolleyes: where's my meds?.....
 
slapped some spare rims on the new axle housing and took measurements at 4 points around the compass...52 5/16"s all the way around:bounce2: I got lucky in that the short shaft was long enough to reach the far side gear in the diff to get the housing aligned right and at the correct length. time to disassemble and repack the hubs, gasoline douche the housing, paint and reassemble using new hub studs and nuts and outer axle seals. so the only thing still up in the air, is do I hang it SOA or keep it undersprung? the SOA on my flat rear springs will net about 3 more inches than I have now...without doing the front, there will be a 2" stinkbeatle(yoko) stance...not sure that I would h8 that.....By tackling this job at home, I saved between 250 and 400 bucks- the range that I was quoted to narrow the housing by Fearless Gear in Fresno. that price was if I brought them all the parts stripped and cleaned, just to section and weld one end. I figured by the time I got there, that it wasn't a great big mystery, and that if certain thing were taken into account, there was no way to mess it up beyond any chance of repair. heck, if I didn't get it straight and had to take it to the gear grinders, I'd be no worse for wear...This forum was of GREAT help in doing this. Several threads went over the finer points of axle narrowing and had some nice pics to illustrate the process. I think seeing Fast Eddies and LCwizards contributions were the greatest help in this area. next will be spring perch mock-up under the old wagon...new WMS# is 59 3/4"
 
the used axle was 700 plus about 30 in gas...the AM axle shaft is going to be less than but close to 250 shipped. spring perches and u bolts, axle studs and nuts, axle oil seals, add another 200. front spacers(for now)80 bucks...totaling out at about 1400 bones. yikes. lets keep that quiet....
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
the used axle was 700 plus about 30 in gas...the AM axle shaft is going to be less than but close to 250 shipped. spring perches and u bolts, axle studs and nuts, axle oil seals, add another 200. front spacers(for now)80 bucks...totaling out at about 1400 bones. yikes. lets keep that quiet....
Click to expand...

I ain't saying nut'n!
 
salvaged some perches from a junk housing I had, and ground the fxxx out of them till they sat flush to the bottom side gusseting. the gusset is about 5/16 and the perches are about 3/16", this will result in about 7/16-1/2" lift from present. maybe only 3/8":meh: if I have to relieve the gusset for the center bolt of the spring, it will not be an issue...this may happen w/in the week...
 
Grind the fxxx out them ? That's how you use condoms twice, you use them once then turn them inside out and shake the fxxx out of them:)
 
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Gonzo55 said:
Grind the fxxx out them ? That's how you use condoms twice, you use them once then turn them inside out and shake the fxxx out of them:)
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DAMMMMIT I'm glad I caught the edited version:lol:




I was thinking about buying the parts to make a narrowing jig, and then rent it out, But why would anyone need to rent my homemade specialty tool when anyone could do it themselves with just a bit of forethought....guess I'm tryin to say, if I can do it, anyone can do it:doh: and:bounce::bounce:
 
full floater mounted, spacers and new to me tires/rims-295/16s. need to replace 2 ubolts, tack on the receiver ends for the sway bar links to the brackets on the axle housing. got the nitro cut to fit axle shaft installed. second torquing, and it's time to test my housing weld. then I just need to build the controller and figure out and ebrake cable coupler deal....pics to follow
 
spring over can't be far behind:doh::censor:
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
full floater mounted, spacers and new to me tires/rims-295/16s. need to replace 2 ubolts, tack on the receiver ends for the sway bar links to the brackets on the axle housing. got the nitro cut to fit axle shaft installed. second torquing, and it's time to test my housing weld. then I just need to build the controller and figure out and ebrake cable coupler deal....pics to follow
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Lambcrusher,

Sometimes you lose me. Please explain ( got the nitro cut to fit axle shaft installed ). Also, are you trying to use that ABS braking system. Good job on all of this, going to neat to see it all come together.
 
I shortened an fzj80 housing by 3.2", so I had to use an aftermarket short side axle shaft. in the rear axle of the 80, the short side is the side that has the locker mech and needs to have about 4" of spline. Nitro-Gear sells cut to length axle shafts with extra long splines that also have a built in flange(one piece as opposed to the Longfields), uses stock hardware and oil seal. the axle comes full short side 80 length and can be cut down about 6" or so and still have long enough splines to utilize the locker. I will NOT be using any abs bs
 
Now I'm following you. You're going through a whole lot of work, for this 80 axle. What's you're main reasons in useing it. Elocker, etc.

Are they that much stronger than a 60 axle. I give you credit, taking on big jobs with the wagon. I always like to see what you come up with next. :)
 
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I was able to keep the diff almost right where it should be.....
 
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