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It is possible to overheat. I think that is the main reason why KDSS is not available on TRD Pro 4Runner. Most people does not really drive for hours at high speed off road as this is nor really a Baja racer and its fine for that short distance.I was all stoked for getting a disconnect, but I worry that the system was not intended to be cycling all the time. I think it could be overheated.
Which wire color are you talking about disconnecting on that connector?The stabilizer ECU location is back drivers side corner.
View attachment 2744180
I can disconnect S34 connector and disable the KDSS from closing the solenoid valve. This is the black most forward connector. View attachment 2744181
This connector connect to solenoid and accumulator pressure sensor. Disconnecting one wire and route it to normally closed relay would disable KDSS temporarily.
EDIT:Solenoid power would be better.Which wire color are you talking about disconnecting on that connector?
How has this been working? Am I reading correctly that you cut in at the rear of the vehicle and ran only the dash switch up to the front? There are toyota momentary switches you can use now. You can buy them blank or add a custom logo at ch4x4Finally got all the parts. Using latch relay really simplify the install.
Choose to use simple discrete momentary button as I cannot find any Toyota standard push button that got somewhat related KDSS symbol.
Parts list.
1. Latching relay. 12VDC Panel Mount Momentary-Switch/Pulse-Signal Control Latching Relay | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/12VDC-Panel-Mount-Momentary-Switch-Pulse-Signal-Control-Latching-Relay-/284183271792?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
2. 20ft of 18 ga / 4 conductor security wire from home depot
3. Fuse tap
4. 2 amp fuse
5. misc wire terminal
6. Any momentary push button
7. 3X2 small radio shack project box to enclose the relay.View attachment 2769155
The relay really makes this very easy job. And the 4 wire conductor makes the color coding easy and no need for custom harness.
Wiring:
1. The green solenoid wire was cut near the stabilizer ECU and one end put to NC1 and the other to C1
2. Pink and green solenoid wire was cut and one end goes to NC2 and the other to C2
3. VCC terminal of the relay wire to fuse box using fuse tap. I use one of the power window circuit.
4. GND is to any grounding point
5. The other GND and R/S wired to the momentary switch.
Been working really good.How has this been working? Am I reading correctly that you cut in at the rear of the vehicle and ran only the dash switch up to the front? There are toyota momentary switches you can use now. You can buy them blank or add a custom logo at ch4x4
Everything still working fine for the disconnect? Does it only allow kdss at the slightly higher speeds of 20-25? Then lock out at highway speeds or is it a total on off situation?
I see you got 20 ft of wire, was that to run the spliced wires up to the relay under the driver dash and have a short power tap to it, or did you mount the relay in the rear and run power all the way to the fuse box and switch up front?Been working really good.
Any momentary switch will work with this latch relay.
Speed dependent activation is totally irrelevant once the relay energized.
Get a bit more. Maybe 25' I have to get more cable to complete it.I see you got 20 ft of wire, was that to run the spliced wires up to the relay under the driver dash and have a short power tap to it, or did you mount the relay in the rear and run power all the way to the fuse box and switch up front?
Did you feed it through the sills under the carpet?
That's what I figured, the long momentary switch wire shouldn't matter as much as a long power source wire may. I do have thicker power wires but prefer a shorter run than from the fusebox to the rear.Get a bit more. Maybe 25' I have to get more cable to complete it.
Yes just put it thru the door sils.
The relay got Velcroed inside the rear trim panel close to the KDSS ECU.
Power is only needed to power the relay. It takes very small power to activate it. I think I use 3 amp fuse. I run it to the fuse box on the left of driver's side kick panel. That 4 wire cable is what I use. I use a fuse tap to one of the circuit that is on only when ignition is on. Maybe the seat heater. Don't remember anymore.You tapped rear power window wire near that location on the 4R?
The switch are just dry contact. It just need to make a momentary contact to signal the relay to close. I also found you need to hold the switch a bit longer like 1 sec to activate it.Having an issue with the switch, I got everything wired up as above but I’m getting nothing to the switch. Any troubleshooting tips?