GX470 Dissent Rear bumper buy thread (1 Viewer)

[kem]

I like dissent’s latch - it’s unique and beefy. But I’ve seen some posts on here about the spare tire mount drooping or tilting down over time.

Are there any plans to change to a welded tire mount with maybe spacer plates to account for bigger/thicker wheels? I’m sure everyone wants to just have it angled up so that level of adjustment isn’t necessary. It seems the droop is caused by use of the bolts to mount and position the tire carrier. Lots of off-road bouncing and vibrating causes the bolts to wear and the tire mount to droop.

The tire mount is designed to accommodate a wide range of offsets and additionally you can adjust the angle at which the tire sits like you describe. The only reason the tire mount would droop like that is if it is mounted too far rearward (away from the hatch). The back of the tire should be resting against the risers of the swing arm, this friction makes sure the angle never changes and the tire never droops.

Now if someone is running an extremely low negative offset the tire mount would need to be mounted really far back and could potentially hit the glass, so in that case I could see how someone would mount it outward more. in that case we we can supply a shorter tire mount.

Tire mount holding a 37, this required a shorter tire mount due to the negative offset of the wheel

 

[dsm4ever]

So I noticed explore overland released their rear bumper for the gx470….but I was hoping for a full replacement option. The metal tech is A monster of a rear bumper, and then dissent is this really high quality hybrid. My only complaint is that it requires use of the factory bumper a little bit. It may be one of those things where I would get over it. The land cruiser ones just look absolutely rad, I just don’t know how to feel about the gx470 bumper usage. I understand why it’s used but seems like there is a work around? I’m assuming the new gx470 bumper will be the same correct? Just kind of the improvements you spoke of?

 

[Arailt]

So I noticed explore overland released their rear bumper for the gx470….but I was hoping for a full replacement option. The metal tech is A monster of a rear bumper, and then dissent is this really high quality hybrid. My only complaint is that it requires use of the factory bumper a little bit. It may be one of those things where I would get over it. The land cruiser ones just look absolutely rad, I just don’t know how to feel about the gx470 bumper usage. I understand why it’s used but seems like there is a work around? I’m assuming the new gx470 bumper will be the same correct? Just kind of the improvements you spoke of?

GX and 4Runner factory rear bumper covers are not designed the same as LCs. The GX/T4R bumper covers ride high, straight to the tail lights. Land Cruisers have body panels in between the factory bumper cover and the tail light, which means cleaner looking replacement bumper options. The only options for the GX are giant hunks of metal hanging off the back to fill in the gap between the tail lights or cutting the factory bumper cover with a more streamlined metal bumper to give the appearance of a body panel like the LCs.

 

[kem]

GX and 4Runner factory rear bumper covers are not designed the same as LCs. The GX/T4R bumper covers ride high, straight to the tail lights. Land Cruisers have body panels in between the factory bumper cover and the tail light, which means cleaner looking replacement bumper options. The only options for the GX are giant hunks of metal hanging off the back to fill in the gap between the tail lights or cutting the factory bumper cover with a more streamlined metal bumper to give the appearance of a body panel like the LCs.

Well said.

I would also add that the bumper twists separately from the body, so if you make a full replacement rear bumper you need to have enough gap between the bumper and fender so the bumper doesn't hit the fender when it's flexed out. Same goes for the front bumper, we see a lot of movement in the frame so if you run steel directly below the headlight without an appropriate gap it can crack the headlight in extreme wheeling. By reusing the factory bumper covers we can maintain OEM-like gap tolerances but still have room for the bumpers to flex/move.

 

[dsm4ever]

Bear with me, this does come full
Circle. I received my sliders from explore overland. When I took them in to get powder coated their fabrication shop starts in on the lack of attention to detail in regards to finish work. The top plate has a very sharp edge to it and the plate was just stitched on with sporadic welds, not all the way around the top plate. Then he goes on about the extruded holes and their sharp edges. Then the laser cut edge on the plate where it would bolt to the frame. He said we can powder coat it but all of those edges will start rusting eventually. I see his point and this is exactly why I didn’t have them shipped powder coated (not to mention everything gets thrown around in transit)

Then he starts in on my jw off-road roof rack mentioning that their wrinkle powder coat will fail prematurely and he would never shoot anything in the northwest with that powder. He wasn’t being arrogant or pushy, just informative.

So my question to dissent is this, since your a California company how much precaution goes into prepping every hard laser cut edge for powder coat? How much radius is needed so it doesn’t fail and rust out? There’s also the zinc embedded epoxy primer he recommended. It’s one thing to pay low dollar and get something I have to touch up, I’m good with that. But when it comes to this rear bumper from dissent, it’s priced fair but not low end and I’d like an explanation of what kind of fire thought in regards to finishes for the long haul have come into play.

 

[Arailt]

Bear with me, this does come full
Circle. I received my sliders from explore overland. When I took them in to get powder coated their fabrication shop starts in on the lack of attention to detail in regards to finish work. The top plate has a very sharp edge to it and the plate was just stitched on with sporadic welds, not all the way around the top plate. Then he goes on about the extruded holes and their sharp edges. Then the laser cut edge on the plate where it would bolt to the frame. He said we can powder coat it but all of those edges will start rusting eventually. I see his point and this is exactly why I didn’t have them shipped powder coated (not to mention everything gets thrown around in transit)

Then he starts in on my jw off-road roof rack mentioning that their wrinkle powder coat will fail prematurely and he would never shoot anything in the northwest with that powder. He wasn’t being arrogant or pushy, just informative.

So my question to dissent is this, since your a California company how much precaution goes into prepping every hard laser cut edge for powder coat? How much radius is needed so it doesn’t fail and rust out? There’s also the zinc embedded epoxy primer he recommended. It’s one thing to pay low dollar and get something I have to touch up, I’m good with that. But when it comes to this rear bumper from dissent, it’s priced fair but not low end and I’d like an explanation of what kind of fire thought in regards to finishes for the long haul have come into play.

I used to live in the heart of the salt belt (western PA). Everything I've ever had PCed started to rust on the edges within two years, even with rust prevention primer. He's probably just covering his ass and throwing the manufacturer under the bus so you don't come back blaming him when your bumper starts to rust haha.

 

[dsm4ever]

So rattle can the sliders and powder coat the bumper? Ha!

 

[Arailt]

I had my sliders PCed. I've touched them up with satin Rustoleum several times because of trail damage or rust popping through. It blends in well. I PCed them because I knew my wife would use them as a step and I didn't want the top to wear down every couple of months with rattle can.

 

[d33kae]

Any updates on the bumper?

 

[kem]

The rear design has been started and we hope to cut the first prototype for fitting in the next 2-3 weeks

 

[kem]

Fitment went well on the prototype, we're finalizing the design this week, hope to have final pics soon.

Bumper is only tacked together in these photos. we will have a hitch option, and the factory bumper cover will cap off the top of the bumper (just at the cornersP_ for a clean look with OEM like gap tolerances.

 

[ChaseInPoint]

Man this looks good. Are you planning on offering a single-sided swingout design? With the GX I always thought they make the most sense as you have a tailgate it all hides behind anyways and then you're not walking around a half swing under the awning. If this was brought up earlier in the thread my apologies haha.

 

[kem]

Man this looks good. Are you planning on offering a single-sided swingout design? With the GX I always thought they make the most sense as you have a tailgate it all hides behind anyways and then you're not walking around a half swing under the awning. If this was brought up earlier in the thread my apologies haha.

Yes you can, you can run one, two, or no swing arms. The goal of the project was to be able to carry over our Land Cruiser swing arms + accessories (which we have four of, plus a couple add-ons), so the swing arm config was set in stone for the GX, BUT you get a really robust product that has been extensively tested on hundreds of Land Cruisers across the USA.

The Land Cruiser swing arms are 40/40 split so you can open them when towing, on the GX they fall to 45/45. Our tire carrier swing-arm has a built in table so it would make the most sense to run that drivers side so you can use it with the barn door open.

Personally I'm going to run our large vertical accessory panels w/ the locking door enclosure for my second swing arm and I'm going to hardwire my compressor (I have the large smitybilt unit) in there and house my morrflate and other items I want to access without getting into the back of the GX. Essentially not camping stuff, as access to it will be limited by the barn door. The large panels swing arm without the lockable enclosure are great for rotopax/maxtrax, again stuff you won't mind out of the way when the barn door is open.

Photo of the large vert panels w the lockable enclosure

 

[ChaseInPoint]

Yes you can, you can run one, two, or no swing arms. The goal of the project was to be able to carry over our Land Cruiser swing arms + accessories (which we have four of, plus a couple add-ons), so the swing arm config was set in stone for the GX, BUT you get a really robust product that has been extensively tested on hundreds of Land Cruisers across the USA.

The Land Cruiser swing arms are 40/40 split so you can open them when towing, on the GX they fall to 45/45. Our tire carrier swing-arm has a built in table so it would make the most sense to run that drivers side so you can use it with the barn door open.

Personally I'm going to run our large vertical accessory panels w/ the locking door enclosure for my second swing arm and I'm going to hardwire my compressor (I have the large smitybilt unit) in there and house my morrflate and other items I want to access without getting into the back of the GX. Essentially not camping stuff, as access to it will be limited by the barn door. The large panels swing arm without the lockable enclosure are great for rotopax/maxtrax, again stuff you won't mind out of the way when the barn door is open.

Photo of the large vert panels w the lockable enclosure

View attachment 2981148

Sorry, I guess I meant a single sided swingarm that covers the complete back end and latches at the opposite end. Not just opting to only run one swingarm out of two available.

Kind of like in this photo.

 

[kem]

New pics... still need to wire up the combo lamps