GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread (17 Viewers)

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Hi all I have a 2014 gx460. Original owner. I have the bug for a new ride but feel some mods will tie me over. So I purchased lil B,s front bumper. A badlands winch some s2 pods and xl 80’s lights for the bumper. I am sure when I get the bumper on I will got to 33’s. I will send out picks. My bumper shipped today to the powder coat company near me. My lift is a few years old and was Bilstein. The set above 5150 but forget model number. I like the method and scs rims for next step. Any advice as I start to destroy my stock truck? Looking forward to the build but also nervous
you have the 6112. with bumper and winch, you’ll need 650 or 700lb front springs. i have 6112 on 600lb springs with winch and the front feels loose. also i’m on the 2-2.5” lift setting and only getting 1” lift.
 
@Cold Iron
I’m still primarily using an ‘08 Husky and a ‘89 Yamaha YS624TE

A Clarence impeller kit on the Husky makes it throw as far the ‘08 Husky.

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That's cool, never seen one of those.

I have two snowblowers, both are from last century. I have a Toro CCR 3000 two stroke single stage, with a 5 hp Suzuki engine that I bought new in 1995. It was expensive ($634 in 1995!) but the "old guys" (of which I am one now) hanging around the hardware store said it would run forever, and it has. The other is a 28" Duetz-Allis (basically a rebadged Simplicity) two-stage absolute tank of a thing from the 1980s that I don't fire up unless I get a major snow event, because the Toro is so much easier to handle.

If you see a running CCR 3000 for sale, grab it!
 
Hi all I have a 2014 gx460. Original owner. I have the bug for a new ride but feel some mods will tie me over. So I purchased lil B,s front bumper. A badlands winch some s2 pods and xl 80’s lights for the bumper. I am sure when I get the bumper on I will got to 33’s. I will send out picks. My bumper shipped today to the powder coat company near me. My lift is a few years old and was Bilstein. The set above 5150 but forget model number. I like the method and scs rims for next step. Any advice as I start to destroy my stock truck? Looking forward to the build but also nervous
If you're on stock wheels, drop down to 17" wheels for your new ones. You'll get a better ride and the tires, for the same size diameter and manufactureur will be a little cheaper. Keep in mind what you want to do with your spare if you go with 33". It won't fit in the stock spot.
 
Been over analyzing how i got my flat and I have come to the conclusion there is a high likelihood that the tire was damaged when I slid off the road. It may not have happened if I had studs.

Any recommendations for studs?
 
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I need more trail resources for Laramide and Weld counties in Colorado. I had previously built my own trail map in Google maps and I am cool with redoing that, as well.

I included a screenshot of all the driveable dirt roads I found in Southern Iowa.

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oNx off-road is pretty nice for trail/route mapping in CO. Here in MO it's not that great as a lot of our trails are kind of locals-only. On our trip in September we used it to find some pretty cool places we would not have otherwise known existed.
 
oNx off-road is pretty nice for trail/route mapping in CO. Here in MO it's not that great as a lot of our trails are kind of locals-only. On our trip in September we used it to find some pretty cool places we would not have otherwise known existed.
Yeah, it was worthless for Iowa. I had to get very creative and ultimately spent hundreds of hours using sat photos from Google and others. In Iowa, once you get used to it, the darker color of the dirt roads pops out against the lighter colored gravel.
 
View attachment 3798274I need more trail resources for Laramide and Weld counties in Colorado. I had previously built my own trail map in Google maps and I am cool with redoing that, as well.

I included a screenshot of all the driveable dirt roads I found in Southern Iowa.

View attachment 3798278

I have topographic maps and gazettes for many States collected over the years. Still use them including Canada where maps are limited.

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I mark them up with colored mapping pencils as none of them are complete and 100% accurate they are normally out of date by the time they are printed. In the wild I use mainly electronic maps although the paper maps are never far away. Sitting in meetings at work where I have very little input my mind will often drift off and I'll pull up google maps and look for new areas to explore, although I will neither confirm nor deny that. In Canada I pay for iHunter Ontario which is much better than any paper published map as they are more up to date. But still primitive compared to most US maps. So is onX Canada for that matter.

I don't get cell phone coverage most places I go so the ability to use maps offline is important to me.

When onX Hunt first came out it was on a SD card for $100 per State and was supposed to be a lifetime update for free. They changed their mind and pissed me off so I went over to Gaia maps. I liked onX better but the guys on Upland Journal that hunt in Co. like Gaia better than onX for the most part. In Mn. onX was more accurate but it has been a lot of years since I used Gaia. Last Spring onX showed up at a side by side shoot at Horse and Hunt

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I won a year subscription to it so used it last Fall in Mn. I like it but there are gaps in it like most maps. The trail where I did this

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wasn't on it, then again it isn't on any map that I have found including Google maps. But with onX showing land ownership knew that it was State Land in a managed Forrest so was aware that it was legal for me to be on it. Last month onX had a sale on onX offroad so I paid for it to check to see if it was any better but nope, same trails and roads and onX Offroad even has land ownership now like Hunt.

If you don't mind knocking on doors to ask permission to hunt it avoids the going to the County Court house and looking over plat maps. But also prevents you from going down a long trail that turns out is a private driveway with someone not so happy to see you at the end of it. Exploring is half the fun, but sometimes not so much. It is a bit of an eye opener to see just how much private land is mixed in with public land sometimes. Not all roads\trails are public.

90% of the time I use Avenza maps. If you are on National Forest land they publish MVUM (motor vehicle use maps) in GPS enabled PDF files to be used in Avenza. The MVUM are free and tell you road restrictions such as vehicle class and seasonal openings if any. There are over a million maps available to download from the Avenza site most for free. Someone somewhere has likely already built a map for where you go. I just did a search for Colorado in the Avenza database and there are more than 50 pages of maps available to download. Including the NF Motor Vehicle Use Maps of course.
 
In the north woods, trails might be on a map but unless it has been used regularly it can get grown over and downed trees can make it impassible without a lot of lumberjacking. And, of course, logging activity can create new ones that aren't on a map.
 
I may spring for the OnX Elite.

Been looking at LX570 stuff after I got back from poking around the mountains.
 
I'm a Delorme Gazetteer man, myself. I have one for every surrounding state and most of the western US. Much like @Cold Iron above, I edit mine with a pen as I find closed roads and such... I make note of creek crossings, and covered bridges, and points of interest on them for reference. I use mine in conjunction with a Garmin Drivesmart 66 GPS, which tells me where I am, not where I am going... I don't have OnX although I keep bandying around the idea. I just generally prefer paper maps especially to see where I am going. My Ohio Delorme and a well worn Michelin atlas live next to me all the time...

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I may spring for the OnX Elite.

Been looking at LX570 stuff after I got back from poking around the mountains.
I'm a Trailguide for onX Offroad and it's a lot of fun rating trails. I went for the Elite last year when I first signed up. I haven't used other GPS maps but am very happy with onX.
 
Front-to-back raised roof rails (not racks)- what are some options?

Here's what I have, what I want, and what I am considering. I need a little guidance.

I have the flush factory side rails on my GX, which suck. I have a set of Inno mounts and crossbars which I have set up on those rails and they work fine, but I don't really like them. The mounts aren't confidence inspiring in the way they clamp to the inside lip of the factory track. Like so:

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I want to run crossbars with awning mounts on the end, and a Yakima basket in the center. This would be put on only for trips and would not be run all the time. I currently have this below setup hanging in my garage rafters and it worked on the factory raised rails on my former 4Runner, and works on the factory raised rails on my wife's current Subaru Outback Wilderness.

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What I probably really want are raised factory rails like in the GX460's Blackline edition. With those I could just swap the entire basket assembly over between vehicles and keep the setup the same on both cars with no unbolting, moving stuff around, etc. It's quick on/ quick off and super secure with the strap around Inno towers:

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I have heard that all factory rails from the 470 will bolt right up to the 460, and obviously the 460 Blackline rails will bolt up, but factory ones are prohibitively expensive, used ones are hard to source, and the aftermarket ones look cheap as hell and I question how good they can be for $120 shipped from China. It appears the 4Runner OEM rails may also work, albeit without the middle bracket piece. Those are readily available used, and cheap. I'm also unsure if I need to install the rubber trim strips in the channels that would be left by removing the low profile roof rails to maintain weatherproofing, or if those trim strips are purely cosmetic (in which case I don't care about them).

So I guess my questions are:

-Has anyone used a Chineseum OEM style aftermarket rail option successfully?
-What sort of weatherproofing do I need to do on an install?
-Are the rubber trim strips which fill the channels left by the removal of the flush rails necessary to ensure weatherproofing?
- Anyone use the 4Runner rails successfully?

EDIT - I ended up installing the 4R rails: GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gx460-gxor-b-s-thread.1315456/page-83#post-15763733 :
 
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LFD rails might be the ticket for you. LFD offroad GX460 ruggedized crossbar bundle

I know it's not quite what you were asking for but I think it would solve your issue with the sturdier crossbars and the fact they sit higher.
 
LFD rails might be the ticket for you. LFD offroad GX460 ruggedized crossbar bundle

I know it's not quite what you were asking for but I think it would solve your issue with the sturdier crossbars and the fact they sit higher.
Yeah I had looked at those but they wouldn't allow cross compatibility with my existing crossbars and basket / awning setup, plus they don't hang over the edges at all. I also had a set some years back on my 4R and they were insanely loud.

I also considered putting some spacers under the OEM rails with longer bolts, to raise them 1/2" or so off the roofline to allow clearance under the rails for mounting towers.

EDIT - after pulling the rails off I see that a large portion of them is plastic and only the inner facing center track section is metal. I am reluctant to space up the rails as I don't think they will bear a lot of weight like that due to their construction.

EDIT 2 - I ended up installing 4R rails: GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/gx460-gxor-b-s-thread.1315456/page-83#post-15763733
 
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You didn't use a bar napkin, so you are one step ahead of my last boss in construction. It was a running joke we had about him.
 

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