Gx 470 CDL stuck locked

[Geoffery]

Hi guys, if anyone has had similar issue and need some help.

Couple days ago I started my gx470 after around couple weeks of no useage.
I saw the CDL lock and Vsc off came on immediately and was static on ( not blinking .
I dove few feet pushed the button off and all was good, went shopping that day parked the car, came back say in 10 min and started again the CDL came back on, this time it will not go off and its static.
And I am sure it's locked because I can feel it when I make hard turn.
I tried all the tricks, reverse, forward, also disconnected the battery overnight to see if that would reset. But no luck so far.
Now I can't dive my truck.
Any suggestions will be appreciated!
Thanks guys

 

[McDuff123]

Just spitballin’ here, because I don’t have a deep understanding of what might have gone wrong...
Things I’d do in your case:
-I wouldn’t be driving/turning with the center diff locked...it doesn’t like to bind up.
-have you tried disengaging while stopped, in neutral and also in park?
-have you tried disengaging while in 4-low on the transfer case?
-is your t-case maintenance up to par? Fluid level is where it should be?
-it may be a connection or contact issue with the switch itself...is there a fuse somewhere in the system?

Good luck. Please report back on how you get this resolved.

 

[Geoffery]

I wouldn’t be driving/turning with the center diff locked...it doesn’t like to bind up.
-have you tried disengaging while stopped, in neutral and also in park? ( YES)
-have you tried disengaging while in 4-low on the transfer case? (YES)
-is your t-case maintenance up to par? Fluid level is where it should be? ( NO , I haven't done anything for the past 5 yrs. no sure the fluid level, any easy way to find this?)
-it may be a connection or contact issue with the switch itself...is there a fuse somewhere in the system? (YES, i will check this and report back)

 

[Geoffery]

I checked the fuse (deff fuse) driver side under the steering wheel.. the fuse is fine.
Btw Even after removing the fuse the locker light is on on the dash

 

[McDuff123]

T Case should have a drain port (at bottom), and a fill port on the side.
When parked on level ground (important), you should put enough of the proper spec oil in so that it just starts running out of the fill port. If overfilled, let it run out til it stops on its own. If underfilled, either top it off, or better yet (5 years?), drain what’s in it and fill with new fluid.
-drain and fill ports can be tough to unthread. Shops often put them on with too much torque. You might want to hit them with penetrating oil for several hours before trying to remove.
-it’s critical to use the right grade /weight of oil. Do some research first, and don’t skimp...buy quality.

I’m not saying this will help you at all with your CDL light issue...but it’s a maintenance item that sounds overdue.

EDIT TO ADD...if you remove either port, get a NEW crush washer for it. Don’t re-use the old washer.

 

[Geoffery]

Thanks, I will do that.
Hope there is a solution for the CDL issue.

 

[Nailhead]

Mine was stuck in locked position and backing up didn't work. I ended up taking the actuator apart and manually pushing the shift rod back in to disengage the CDL.

Blinking CDL Light and VSC Off but CDL Unlocked - Is there a Sensor like the 80/100?

forum.ih8mud.com

There was a good link in a 4-runner forum
Here are the steps:

Be sure that your truck has the center diff unlocked.
Remove the inspection plate that has the blue indicator to tell you where the shaft should be.
Mark this position with a sharpie, it is the "diff unlocked position" If you are off by more than 10 degrees it wont work, you have to be right on with your mark.
remove actuator plastic bottom plate.
(gears may fall out)
Under the lowest gear which drives the shaft (the one with the spring), you will find the VSC pressure switch. There is an eccentric wheel on the gear which drives the shaft that is supposed to push down on this switch when the shaft is all the way out of the case (CDL engaged) and release this switch when the shaft is all the way in the case (CDL disengaged).

Simply place the lower gear which drives the shaft into the case in such a manner that when you spin the gear by hand to get the shaft to come out of the case, the eccentric wheel on the bottom of the gear engages the VSC switch during the last 20 degrees of rotation and disengages the switch when the gear is rotated the other direction and the shaft is FULLY pushed into the case.

You have now timed the VSC portion.

Now, spin the last gear by hand to get the shaft to be fully inside the case and verify that the VSC switch is not engaged. Next, find your external case with the mark you made on the indicator before you disassembled the unit and be sure that the wheel is rotated to exactly where you made the mark on the outside of the case. Install this onto the box and be SURE that the blue indicator did not move from your mark when the case is fully pressed together.

If the indicator is in the same spot, you have now timed the Center Diff portion.

Everything should work fine and you just saved $2700.

 

[Geoffery]

Just yesterday, my neighbour (who is a machanic) was able to unlock..I haven't had time to chat with him in detail, but he said that it was the faulty switch, and asked me to replace it.
It puzzles me on how a switch that is barely used can break? Physically it seams fine and push action seams fine with no indication of malfunction spring etc.
What could have gone wrong?
The good news is the truck is unlocked and I can drive. The bad news is I live in Canada, and cannot readly find parts, unless I go into a dealership.
(I just want to remind other users that my CDL light was( NOT BLINKING , IT WAS STEADY ON) so some of the other fixes that is to do with blinking CDL light may not apply.