Gutting a Cat. converter
- Thread starter soggy60
- Start date
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Pete, I had mine removed on my 62 years ago. Made no difference in performance or efficiency. Had a muffler shop cut them out for $50, cash being the operative word. Unless it's causing issues, I'd prolly leave it alone.
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I've done it on my pull truck but not on a Cruiser. I cut mine open from the top gutted it and weldedit back together. I have not tried to rod one but I think it would be PITA. Unless your in a state that inspects for cats I'd just get a bypass, errr "test" pipe and go.
Mike
Mike
Unless the ceramic in the cat has broken up and is disrupting the exhaust flow, just leave it alone. A properly functioning cat does not hurt flow.
if you really want to gut it you can do it on the car, just open up the back end, use a sharp object(I used a peice of re-bar with a shapened end) and poke the drap out, then start up the motor and it will blow the crap out the back end(of cat)
wear a mask......
wear a mask......
I was planning on ramming the cat out like Pimp said, but took it out completely instead. It looks like it's shielded inside. I was glad I cut it out, I donno if I could have busted it out or not... I don't know if it was OEM or not... However, I was able to drive over Afton mountain at ALMOST interstate speeds afterwords!
Chris
Chris
brian
SILVER Star
i have'nt gutted mine yet, but it's going to happen. recently replaced everything behind it with oem. before i put that on i fired it up, with just the cat on. i EASILY could have gotten away with NO muffler, the cat muffled it that much.
state regs require that i have the cat, so i'm going to gut it soon.
state regs require that i have the cat, so i'm going to gut it soon.
60wag
SILVER Star
With a newer honeycomb style cat, you can break up the guts. A stock 60 cat is filled with pellets held in place with two screens. Clearing out one of those isn't going to happen by shoving a metal rod in there. The screens are parallel to the flow direction. The pellet design is actually much harder to clog up than the newer honeycomb style. The old cats actually flow really well. I'd leave it alone and focus on stuff that actually makes a difference.
good info, the one on my fj80 was honeycomb......and was pluged and bloke up easily.
60wag said:
60wag
SILVER Star
A friend of mine had a mid 90s 4Runner that was a dog. I know they are a bit slow to start with but my old FJ60 loaded with camping gear could easily pull away from the the Runner on an uphill grade. We knew something was wrong. I tried a vac gauge on it and was able to show almost 0 manifold vacuum at 2500 rpm. From the TT article "Your engine sucks" (Jack Conrad?) it pointed to a clogged cat. We pulled the cat and sure enough it was totally clogged. I don't know what the clog was from but the input side of the honeycomb was covered with something that looked like almost fiber like. It was bonded to the ceramic honeycomb and the only way to get it off was to chip away at the honeycomb. With some chipping and some compressed air we were able to cleart the blockage and still leave about 3/4 length of the honeycomb intact. After reassembly the thing ran great - lots more power and it still passed the dyno emissions test. Its so cool when you can fix something for 0$ in parts.
