Guide to tuning your 1HD-T or 1HD-FT or VE rotary injection pump (2 Viewers)

[mudgudgeon]

For an easy to read, easy to follow guide to tuning after a turbo upgrade, or for baselining , and improving factory tune go to

GTurbo tuning guide

 

[wagonteeth]

This should be tacked to the top.

 

[veiloctane]

thanks for sharing this guide.

the guide talks about the Gturbo Badboy (25PSI) does this mean that our factory pumps are capleable of supplying enfough fuel to support turbos capeable of 25+psi?

I have a question about step 2 im having a hard time understanding how to get the 2-3psi buffer verify this?

(2) Set spring tension
"The spring tension as a starting point needs to hold the pin such that it moves off
the flat with ~1psi if setting for 20psi max boost (Grunter) ~ 3psi boost if setting
for 25psi max boost (Bad Boy). The reason for this is that even after the
adjustment, which allows the aneroid function to pull out as much fuel as it can,
it will still be a bit rich under hard acceleration from idle (due to increase in
overall max fuel by the main fuel screw – note that at this point, you wont have
adjusted the main fuel screw, so in fact it will be more sluggish off idle until you
do adjust it. But, once adjusted to the required setting, the above preload 11-3psi
will be helpful and the sluggish behavior non existent), in particular for the “Bad
Boy”. Having this 2-3psi buffer before additional fuel is allowed serves to clean
up the smoke by leaning off the AFR."

 

[AussieHJCruza]

thanks for sharing this guide.

the guide talks about the Gturbo Badboy (25PSI) does this mean that our factory pumps are capleable of supplying enfough fuel to support turbos capeable of 25+psi?

I have a question about step 2 im having a hard time understanding how to get the 2-3psi buffer verify this?

(2) Set spring tension
"The spring tension as a starting point needs to hold the pin such that it moves off
the flat with ~1psi if setting for 20psi max boost (Grunter) ~ 3psi boost if setting
for 25psi max boost (Bad Boy). The reason for this is that even after the
adjustment, which allows the aneroid function to pull out as much fuel as it can,
it will still be a bit rich under hard acceleration from idle (due to increase in
overall max fuel by the main fuel screw – note that at this point, you wont have
adjusted the main fuel screw, so in fact it will be more sluggish off idle until you
do adjust it. But, once adjusted to the required setting, the above preload 11-3psi
will be helpful and the sluggish behavior non existent), in particular for the “Bad
Boy”. Having this 2-3psi buffer before additional fuel is allowed serves to clean
up the smoke by leaning off the AFR."

Depends on the condition of your fuel pump but 1HDT should make 140rwkw and 1HDFT closer to 160rwkw on a healthy stock pump, would be circa 25psi to make these numbers.

 

[veiloctane]

Depends on the condition of your fuel pump but 1HDT should make 140rwkw and 1HDFT closer to 160rwkw on a healthy stock pump, would be circa 25psi to make these numbers.

ok i get it... so depending on pump condition 25PSI is about max on these pumps... but how to set the preload and check . i assume this is just the star wheel adjustment

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Yes, that is the star wheel adjustment. In my experience, max fuel screw on the dyno and the compensator to a 'base' level and then fine tune the compensator on the road until you're happy with how it drives and the exhaust cleanliness.

 

[mudgudgeon]

ok i get it... so depending on pump condition 25PSI is about max on these pumps... but how to set the preload and check . i assume this is just the star wheel adjustment

You may need to shim the aneroid rod under the star wheel to prevent it pushing in too deep and past the max fuel position.
With factory set up, the taper on the rod reverses, with enough boost, it pushes past the max depth of the grind, and the taper starts to cut fuel again.

If you have a custom ground fuel rod, may not be relevant.

 

[Bonsnz80]

For an easy to read, easy to follow guide to tuning after a turbo upgrade, or for baselining , and improving factory tune go to

GTurbo tuning gui

Some cowboy tuned my 80 series before I brought up and I'm looking to set it back to stock levels instead of 1100+ egts

Does anyone know what the fuel pump main screw is normally wound in at.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Some cowboy tuned my 80 series before I brought up and I'm looking to set it back to stock levels instead of 1100+ egts

Does anyone know what the fuel pump main screw is normally wound in at.

Where is your EGT probe, and I assume you're talking fahrenheit?

 

[veiloctane]

I tuned mine by AFR and EGT need to just have a good balance between both.

DO NOT RUN THE FUEL SCREW INALL THE WAY YOU WILL ENDUP WITH A RUNNAWAY!!!

Perhaps start with winding it back out 1/2 turn at a time go for a drive and see how much smoke and performance is effected. Repeat as needed.

I have a PE electronics I have a link somewhere on mud as you do need a Wideband for diesel application. All the soot will clog up gas o2 sensors.

PE Wideband O2 Controller Kit | Performance Electronics

pe-ltd.com

For the PE kit you will have to change the o2 sensor that it comes with

With this part number #Bosch 17212 (I got mine Rockauto)

I am currently set up for 18PSI
22:1 AFR
EGTs 1100F

 

[mudgudgeon]

The fuel screw position will be different in every pump. Unfortunately, there is no preset position that applies to every one.

I agree, it's important to know where your EGT probe is. Before, or after turbo?
1100⁰f is no issue. 1100⁰C would be quite an achievement.

 

[veiloctane]

I know this is a old thread

I just got a fresh fully rebuilt ve pump along with rebuilt injectors
I had it timed using the Toyota injection pump timing tool
Turbo is NEW
Not using any OIL
Leak down test and compression test good

The truck starts up super easy and has zero smoke at idle only a quick puff at start up.

black smoke on acceleration only under load

so I suspect over fueling.

idle was abit high when i got the pump back from the rebuilder so i turned the fuel screw down about 2 times then the idle dropped back to where its supposed to be 700-750RPM

now to play with the start wheel

Screw down to the bottom (Clockwise)= less spring tension on diaphragm on boost gets more fuel faster
Screw UP to the sky (counter clockwise) = more spring tension on diaphragm on boost gets fuel slower


my question is should I turn the main fuel screw down even more then use the idle adjustment screw on the side of the pump to bring the rpms back up before adjusting the start wheel?

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Looks pretty normal to me. I would leave it as is.

 

[veiloctane]

Looks pretty normal to me. I would leave it as is.

yeah but im getting alot of black smoke under acceleration so i think the star wheel needs to go up

 

[mudgudgeon]

There no issue with that puff at start up. It cleared straight away.

With it sitting idling, if you stab the throttle hard for a second, I'd expect to see a similar puff of grey smoke. Just like in your video.

Theoretically, the fuel screw should not have needed to be touched after a rebuild, unless you were looking to increase power. Fuel settings should be dialed in to factory spec on the test bench.

Idle speed screw should have been used as first method to adjust the idle.
Then drive and observe your peak EGTs under load.
Observe if it's smoking more than just a puff on initial accleration. Or if you stab it to pass someone. Smoke on acceleration should clear as boost comes up, unless you're really giving it some right boot.

I wouldn't turn the main fuel screw down, unless you have concerns with excessive EGTs (750⁰C peak is 100% safe. Personally, if be on seeing 850⁰c peak).
Or excessive smoke ALL the time.

 

[mudgudgeon]

yeah but im getting alot of black smoke under acceleration so i think the star wheel needs to go up

Try and video it.

 

[veiloctane]

Try and video it.

im no expert just messing around... i noticed if the fuel screw is set too low then it feels like the engine would stall when turning or when the AC is on
i do have afr and EGT so just trying to balance it as best as i can...

AFR readings on idle is useless so i need load to fine tune it

 

[mudgudgeon]

If you wind in the fuel screw, you reduce fuel at ALL points of the tune.

You basically start over to get it to perform

I'd put the main screw back to how it was before you touched it, tune from there.
Set idle speed first with idle speed screw.

The boost compensator restricts fuel until there's sufficient boost to warrant it.
The adjustment on the top cap of the compensator adjusts how much fuel is available while off boost. ( from idle, to boosted state)

After that, adjust so you get good response from off boost, into boost and under accleration, but tolerable smoke.
This is the biggest compromise. To make power, you need to burn fuel. To build boost, you need extra fuel to drive the turbine to build boost to burn the extra fuel.
Can't put the chicken before the egg.

A little smoke haze under acceleration, or under heavy load is normal.
It shouldn't look like your laying down a smoke screen, and most of the time won't be noticeable in your mirrors. ( at night you'll Sr l see it in the lights of a car behind you).

Takes time to tune by yourself without a dyno.
It's a process of tweak, drive and observe changes. Tweak, and drive. Tweak and drive.
I'd tinker with mine over weeks.

 

[veiloctane]

If you wind in the fuel screw, you reduce fuel at ALL points of the tune.

You basically start over to get it to perform

I'd put the main screw back to how it was before you touched it, tune from there.
Set idle speed first with idle speed screw.

The boost compensator restricts fuel until there's sufficient boost to warrant it.
The adjustment on the top cap of the compensator adjusts how much fuel is available while off boost. ( from idle, to boosted state)

After that, adjust so you get good response from off boost, into boost and under accleration, but tolerable smoke.
This is the biggest compromise. To make power, you need to burn fuel. To build boost, you need extra fuel to drive the turbine to build boost to burn the extra fuel.
Can't put the chicken before the egg.

A little smoke haze under acceleration, or under heavy load is normal.
It shouldn't look like your laying down a smoke screen, and most of the time won't be noticeable in your mirrors. ( at night you'll Sr l see it in the lights of a car behind you).

Takes time to tune by yourself without a dyno.
It's a process of tweak, drive and observe changes. Tweak, and drive. Tweak and drive.
I'd tinker with mine over weeks.

Super helpful pointers thanks I think I got it
Runs way smoother and better.

EGTs 1350F on steep uphill
AFR: 21.5-22:1
Boost: 18psi

Here is a video of me accelerating on the freeway

 

[mudgudgeon]

Super helpful pointers thanks I think I got it
Runs way smoother and better.

EGTs 1350F on steep uphill
AFR: 21.5-22:1
Boost: 18psi

Here is a video of me accelerating on the freeway

Cool. Video looks good.
Short puff of smoke that clears up. Not rolling coal.
Looks maybe a little on the smokey side, but that's the juggling act. Throttle response vs clean exhaust. I think you could maybe reduce the off boost fuel a little.

The turn at the lights, you can see the soot cloud hanging, waiting to choke out a Prius