Guide to tuning your 1HD-T or 1HD-FT or VE rotary injection pump

[veiloctane]

Cool. Video looks good.
Short puff of smoke that clears up. Not rolling coal.
Looks maybe a little on the smokey side, but that's the juggling act. Throttle response vs clean exhaust. I think you could maybe reduce the off boost fuel a little.

The turn at the lights, you can see the soot cloud hanging, waiting to choke out a Prius

Off boost you mean more spring tention on the star wheel?

And if your wondering about my dashcam
I got have this one
Thread 'factory fit replacement mirror with metal bracket + wireless Applecarplay and AA 2ch dashcam 4k/1080p'
factory fit replacement mirror with metal bracket + wireless Applecarplay and AA 2ch dashcam 4k/1080p - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/factory-fit-replacement-mirror-with-metal-bracket-wireless-applecarplay-and-aa-2ch-dashcam-4k-1080p.1319834/

 

[mudgudgeon]

Off boost you mean more spring tention on the star wheel?

Off boost fuel is set by the cam/screw on the top of the compensator cap.
It sets the initial position of the aneroid rod and fine tunes the fuel setting from idle, until boost pressure acts on the diaphragm.

Not enough fuel here, you'll get sluggish initial response. Too much, you get smoke before there's enough boost/air to burn all the fuel.

The star wheel changes spring preload. More preload means more boost is needed to compress the spring, so the additional fuel is available later in the powerband

 

[veiloctane]

Off boost fuel is set by the cam/screw on the top of the compensator cap.
It sets the initial position of the aneroid rod and fine tunes the fuel setting from idle, until boost pressure acts on the diaphragm.

Not enough fuel here, you'll get sluggish initial response. Too much, you get smoke before there's enough boost/air to burn all the fuel.

The star wheel changes spring preload. More preload means more boost is needed to compress the spring, so the additional fuel is available later in the powerband

ok i got ya off boost this is the screw on top... right now my screw is flush so there is no pre boost setting the pin is all the way to the top.
there is a spacer on the pin i can remove this will move the pin up so the fuel profile is in the wider part of the pin.


i wondering if i should try that

 

[mudgudgeon]

ok i got ya off boost this is the screw on top... right now my screw is flush so there is no pre boost setting the pin is all the way to the top

Do you have the standard cap?
Does yours have the slanted/ cam on the end of the screw?

If you have the off boost adjustment screw at its minimum, and still think it's smokey on acceleration, then you'll need to take some fuel out with the main fuel screw. 1/8 of a turn at a time.

And the tweak, drive, tweak starts over

If you can remove a spacer??? You may be able to leave the main fuel screw as is.
But, if the aneroid rod follower pin is already riding on the aneroid rod at its thinnest point, you may still have to adjust the main fuel screw.

The off boost setting is just establishing a new zero point for boost compensator for increasing fuel on boost.
If you use 1/10 of the rod travel setting your zero point, you lose that 1/10 at the top end as well.
Getting the main fuel screw setting as close a possible to ideal leaves you with maximum increase in fueling available with the boost compensator/aneroid rod

 

[veiloctane]

Do you have the standard cap?
Does yours have the slanted/ cam on the end of the screw?

If you have the off boost adjustment screw at its minimum, and still think it's smokey on acceleration, then you'll need to take some fuel out with the main fuel screw. 1/8 of a turn at a time.

And the tweak, drive, tweak starts over

If you can remove a spacer??? You may be able to leave the main fuel screw as is.
But, if the aneroid rod follower pin is already riding on the aneroid rod at its thinnest point, you may still have to adjust the main fuel screw.

The off boost setting is just establishing a new zero point for boost compensator for increasing fuel on boost.
If you use 1/10 of the rod travel setting your zero point, you lose that 1/10 at the top end as well.
Getting the main fuel screw setting as close a possible to ideal leaves you with maximum increase in fueling available with the boost compensator/aneroid rod

I have a trundles boost pin and cap

I can feel it I’m so close. I think that’s the next step. Is to turn the fuel screw slowly and go for a drive and see how it performs.

Thanks again.