Green coolant vs. Red coolant

[Beowulf]

wile we are talking about coolant, always use with distilled water, it is very cheap and can save you from a lot of problems if there are minerals or contaminants in your tap water

Great advice.

Those lurkers and newbies reading this thread should take note that those of us that have been following the maintenance on the US 80 Series over the past 4 or 5 years will recommend several things to keep the cooling system in top condition.

(Repeating from Robbie's post, Raven's post, Rich, et. al.)

1. Replace your coolant every year.
2. Use a quality coolant (Toyo Red, Prestone, Zerex ?) Do not use Dexcool.
3. Flush the radiator, block, and heater.
4. Inspect all hoses & belts
5. Refill using DISTILLED water and the proper mixture of coolant.

There are a lot of other things you should do to keep the cooling system in top shape but these are the critical things.

Every Spring & Summer for the past 4 or 5 years we have a rash of reports of over-heating and failed head gaskets. Nobody is 100% certain of the cause but, IMHO, the failed head gaskets are frequently a result of overheating caused by another cooling system problem. (Clogged radiator, busted belt, failure of PHH, bad thermostat, faulty radiator cap, and bad fan clutch [to name a few.])

Now would be a good time to freshen up that cooling system. You don't want to be the next to post about white smoke from the tailpipe.

-B-

(I probably just jinxed myself with the above post. )

 

[Zen Dude]

Pesky Heater Hose - I think there is a good description in the FAQ section. Nasty little heater hose hidden at the back of the engine block. Also a good writeup at the sleeoffroad.com site if I remember correctly.

Charlie

Thanks

 

[Junk]

B - you just gave me a great idea of trying to find that post with the how-to that was written up on how to flush the coolant system and incorporate that into a SEASONAL sticky that gets updated with things to keep in mind as summer starts/ winter starts etc.

 

[reffug]

B - you just gave me a great idea

I hope to be cool like you someday, but I know I never will be. :isuck:

 

[Jim_Chow]

Aren't the silicate-free (eg, Toyota red) coolants supposed to be non-reactive against aluminum radiators, which are pretty much standard on all vehicles from the later 90's? If it's true that green coolant reacts more w/ aluminum radiators, I'd imagine it would also react w/ the aluminum in the head? I'm wondering if that's why when I removed the block bolt after using green, the drain hole was mostly clogged w/ a grainy powder, like decaying aluminum on boats that has been exposed to salty air (I suspect the green reacted w/ the aluminum parts). I inserted a rigid wire (unbent coat hanger) into there to clear it out. Yet, after switching to Toyo red and driving daily for 2 yrs in AZ, I did the same thing two months ago...no residue at all. But if the green stuff is okay in older brass radiators, the head is still aluminum.

 

[Junk]

I hope to be cool like you someday, but I know I never will be. :isuck:

I'm sure you do.

I'll find the post and link it in.

 

[RavenTai]

Aren't the silicate-free (eg, Toyota red) coolants supposed to be non-reactive against aluminum radiators, which are pretty much standard on all vehicles from the later 90's? If it's true that green coolant reacts more w/ aluminum radiators, I'd imagine it would also react w/ the aluminum in the head? I'm wondering if that's why when I removed the block bolt after using green, the drain hole was mostly clogged w/ a grainy powder, like decaying aluminum on boats that has been exposed to salty air (I suspect the green reacted w/ the aluminum parts). I inserted a rigid wire (unbent coat hanger) into there to clear it out. Yet, after switching to Toyo red and driving daily for 2 yrs in AZ, I did the same thing two months ago...no residue at all. But if the green stuff is okay in older brass radiators, the head is still aluminum.

Classic American coolants contain both phosphate and silicate as corrosion inhibitors. Neither should cause problems if used correctly and changed out regularly.

Silicate is an effective corrosion inhibitor especially for aluminum. If not changed regularly it can settle out as a gel or even a solid and abrade the water pump seal. The Japanese don’t like it, changed regularly is should not be a problem.

Phosphate is also effective especially on steel/iron but can have problems if the coolant becomes acid over time or if water is used that has minerals. The Europeans do not like phosphate, supposedly most of Europe has hard water, if used with distilled water and changed out regularly should not be a problem

The Japanese used to use phosphates and no silicates, the Europeans used to use
Silicates and no phosphates


The new coolants DexCool (GM) , Toyota Long Life, G-05 (Europe and now ford and Chrysler) etc are an attempt to get away from corrosion inhibitors with short lives so that change intervals can be increased.

The cycle is returning. I know their is a couple of discussions on this in the Archives. I use toyota red for people that want it. I will not use toyota red in my 80 series or older toyota vechicles I own period. I have seen too much. i will use green and flush it once a year.

Not sure where to go with that info? When the different people I trust and go to for info disagree……

The 1fz head gasket is graphite and stainless, how could a coolant effect it?

Did a Google search on the MLS gasket you speak of, "multi layered steel" sounds good, wonder if you can get one for the 1FZ?

 

[hatfieldcb]

This may seem like a dumb question, but how do you dispose of used coolant? I'm thinking it's maybe not the best idea to let it run down the gutter in the street?

 

[mooker82]

Does anyone see any problem with switching from green to toyota red. When I bought my 97 from the dealer they completely flushed the system and put in the green stuff. This was at a Toyota dealership too. I do not know what was in it before but I have checked my coolant and there is no sludge or other signs of mixing. I am going to do the PHH this weekend hopefully and changing my coolant. I was going to go with toyota but should I stick with green since its already there?

 

[RavenTai]

Contact your local government. In some areas you are allowed to dispose household quantities of used coolant in the sewer or in some areas in your septic tank per a prescribed method (diluted small amounts spaced over time etc)

If not contact a local garage and see if they will take it or if not ask who does.

never just let it run down the gutter, ethylene glycol degrades into nothing between a few days to several weeks depending on conditions, bacteria "eat" it, but until it degrades it is very toxic to animals, when it runs out of the storm drain into a local creek the bacterial bloom caused by its presence can consume all the O2 in the water killing the fish.

 

[Grouseman]

[
But one thing for sure, I think im way too obsesses with my 80's every time I flushed and refill the radiator I've always mixed the Toyota Red with 2 gallons of drinking water (YES not tap water) and 2 bottles of red line water wetter.[/QUOTE]

Extreme,

I saw the red line water wetter the other day in the autoparts place. Please tell me why you use it.

GM

 

[Jacques Villeneuve]

Just spoke to my mechanic today. He says the pH level in the Red is what causes head gaskets to go in the Toys. He says that he has had Celicas, Paseos and others in his shop for blown hg's.

He says that the Green is the only way to go.
He picked up a new Toy of some sort not that many years back and immediately flushed out the red and put in the green and has done the same for others .

A freind of his has a video/book(?) on the dangers of using Toyota Red. As soon as he digs it up, I'll post details.

 

[RavenTai]

are you sure your mechanic is not confusing Toyo red and dexcool? the color is unfortunate is they are quite diffrent.

 

[Gumby]

I'm a firm beleiver in green. It works. The other stuff is suspect at best.

I've seen a lot of deposits with red and a TON of issues with organic acid coolants in general.

 

[cruiserdan]

I'm a firm beleiver in green. It works. The other stuff is suspect at best.

I've seen a lot of deposits with red and a TON of issues with organic acid coolants in general.

Aw, come on Gum......


You like green 'cuz it matches yer complexion.

Just admit it and move on...

 

[Erratic]

I called the service center at Autofair Toyota and they said that I could add green to red. He said they are both glycol based and compatible. The red was just dyed to be red. I didn't fully believe him from my past experiences with VW red. I bought the prestone "compatible with everything" coolant and added about 1/3 gallon to the overflow. I hope it's allright. I plan to do a flush soon anyway when I plan to refill with red. Is this guy insane or what?

 

[IdahoDoug]

Probably not insane, but woefully misinformed. It always makes me happy that I do all my own work when I am at a dealership and hear a service writer who yesterday was flipping burgers hold forth with authority to a service customer on various maintenance items.

It was a bad idea to add a different antifreeze but if you're flushing soon no worries. Just don't let 'soon' turn into summer...

DougM

 

[Gumby]

Glycol based is not the issue. It's the lubricants that are different. Dex-Cool is Organic Acid Eythelene Glycol. Prestone green is silicate Eythelene Glycol. You can't mix the two.

I don't know about Toy Red

http://www.baldwinfilter.com/engineer/99_2.html

 

[Rookie2]

I'd love to hear Robbie's reasons for not using Red and only the green stuff... but I think C-Dan's been holding him at bay with threats of voodoo-dollosis

 

[Gumby]

Hit the search button. You can see about ten threads about it.