I ordered the Goose Gear baseplate, and I'll build my own drawers / platform on top of it. I like the idea of the drawers being the right height to level with folded down 2nd row.
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I ordered the Goose Gear baseplate, and I'll build my own drawers / platform on top of it. I like the idea of the drawers being the right height to level with folded down 2nd row.
Here's a couple pics of my platform. I used the factory bolt holes in the rear and added rivenuts on the elevated cross member up front to hold the platform down. I think it was 44in wide, and basically as long as you want it to be until it hits the 2nd row seats
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Is this for a third row seat delete? Or can you still keep the third row?I designed one out of 1/4" 6061 aluminum and bolted it to the factory bolt locations as well as added Rivnuts. I'll post some photos later today or tomorrow along with my opinions. I drew it in CAD. See attached PDF of the layout as it follows the wheel well lines and terminates at the upper seat raised cross piece. I think you could have it plotted at kinkos or something and trace it on wood. It has all the holes for bolt locations plus I have added holes for the TNutz shelf I built, so the holes that have four in a patter can be used or deleted. I went with aluminum as I have access to a laser cutter and wanted to save height on the baseplate and top plate over the drawers. I'll do a write up of the build. It is about 80% done. One note, at the top corner of each side and the bottom corner near the rear opening are level. So those rest directly on the body. The other locations require spacers of some sort.
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This was intended for a third row seat delete.Is this for a third row seat delete? Or can you still keep the third row?
Wow this takes diy to another level lol. Regarding kaon shelf: it's solid, albeit the cost is ~$250. Worth it, in my opinion
I designed one out of 1/4" 6061 aluminum and bolted it to the factory bolt locations as well as added Rivnuts. I'll post some photos later today or tomorrow along with my opinions. I drew it in CAD. See attached PDF of the layout as it follows the wheel well lines and terminates at the upper seat raised cross piece. I think you could have it plotted at kinkos or something and trace it on wood. It has all the holes for bolt locations plus I have added holes for the TNutz shelf I built, so the holes that have four in a patter can be used or deleted. I went with aluminum as I have access to a laser cutter and wanted to save height on the baseplate and top plate over the drawers. I'll do a write up of the build. It is about 80% done. One note, at the top corner of each side and the bottom corner near the rear opening are level. So those rest directly on the body. The other locations require spacers of some sort.
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It seems like one of these shelf kits or a couple of ClosetMaid wire shelves cut to fit, a piece of aluminum and some bolts would get you something close for half the price.I WANT one of the trays for the top!!!
I WANT one of the trays for the top!!!
Yeah, it's a wire closet shelf supported and fastened to the molle panels. $12 from HD or Lowes, cut to length with a Dremel. I only put light and soft supplies up there.It seems like one of these shelf kits or a couple of ClosetMaid wire shelves cut to fit, a piece of aluminum and some bolts would get you something close for half the price.
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