Goodyear 7.00 x 15 inch tube tires

[pickelltree]

I bought these tires 2 weeks ago and have had 3 flats since. It’s my first tire with tubes and wanted to see if I’m missing something that is causing these flats.

I’m driving on dirt road in Patagonia at the moment. Not to fast. The flats seem to come from no where. There are loose large rocks and pot holes. But I’m missing most of them. I have 40 psi in them and rear air bags to help with new shocks

One flat was caused by a paper sticker that was left in the tire. Apparently it dries the tube and caused the flat. One I saw a hole in the tube but nothing on or in the 10 ply tire. The 3rd I have yet to take the tube out to see.

So is it just bad luck or are there tricks to running tube tires? Can you run tube tires with out tubes?

 

[hatcher]

It sounds as if the tube may be getting pinched between the tire and rim. Not sure this is your issue but you stated there were no puncture holes in the tires. Was the hole in the one tube on the side close to where the tire and rim meet? The tube may seal while pinched but any impact with a rock, pothole, etc could dislodge the seal and the tire then leak. The installer needs to be careful that the tube is no where near the bead (where tire and rim meet) when inflating.
Its hard to believe that a sticker could dry out a tube in 2 weeks when you can literally leave an inflated tube outside all summer and it never burst.
Regarding running them without tubes. I would think its physically possible to install a valve stem and run them but I would NOT if its against the recommendations of the tire manufacturer.

 

[John McVicker]

Are the tires brand new or did you buy them used? Don't know about Peru but in the USA the date code is on the sidewall. If they are very old that 'could' be the problem.

 

[FJ404345]

It's possible that the tube get put in twisted and at inflation in the tire it gets stuck that way.

Also it's possible the rubber on rubber ( tube on tire) can not let the tube to inflate properly. Before mounting rub some baby powder on the inside of the tire so that it can accommodate easier at inflation.

Did they grind some production irregularities inside the tires down?

Maybe they try to make it work and the tubes are too large for the tires size

 

[NMC_EXP]

--Your wheel photo is of a conventional drop center type. The other three are the same?

--If those are tubeless tires the inside of the tire may have molded in roughness that is wearing holes in the tubes. Tires designed as tube type had fairly smooth interiors.

--Tube type tires are just as reliable as tubeless so long as it's a good tube and the tire and wheel are in good shape.

--If they are in fact tube-type tires they may inflate OK without a tube but the air will bleed out thru the tire carcass. Tubeless tires have an inner layer of butyl rubber that is impermeable to air - this layer takes the place of the tube. Tube type tires do not have an impermeable inner layer.

--Difficult to troubleshoot the cause of your leaks without seeing the damaged tubes. But here's a list of common problems:

1. Tube installed inside the tire incorrectly: (a) tube is cut or pinched by the tire iron used to pry the bead on the wheel. (b) tube pinched between tire bead and wheel when inflated.

2. Wrong size tube: (a) Tube too large for the tire - tube is wrinkled inside the tire - tube splits at the wrinkles. (b) Tube too small, it stretches too far and splits.

3. Debris such as pebbles, sand, rust particles left inside the tire casing. This junk will wear a hole thru the tube. The inside of the casing must be cleaned prior to installing tube.

4. Inside of the wheel has rust or other rough spots - wears a hole in the tube. Inside of the wheel must be smooth.

5. Failure to remove nail or whatever caused a previous puncture from the tire. Wrap a rag around your hand and slide it all around the inside of the tire to feel for penetrating objects or rough spots. If there has been penetrating damage to the tire, the inside of the tire must be patched - not to hold air but to protect the tube from the roughness.

6. Wheel valve stem holes and tube valves stems come in two standard diameters. If a tube with a small diameter valve stem is used in a wheel with a large diameter hole the inner tube around the stem will extrude thru the hole in the wheel and will eventually crack and leak. Plastic bushings are available to correct this situation if you cannot find a tube with the correct stem diameter.

7. Before installing a tube inflate it just enough so you can check it for leaks. Do not inflate it so it's way oversize - that will stretch the tube and cause wrinkles, wrinkles cause leaks.

8. It was fairly common to dust the inside of the tire with talc or mica powder to prevent tube abrasion - not sure how effective that was.

9. When you have a flat mark the location of the valve stem on the tire before removing tire from wheel. When you find the leak in the tube lay the tube on the tire with the tube valve stem lined up with the mark. This shows you where to look in the tire for the cause. If the hole in the tube is on the inside (wheel side) do the same thing and inspect the wheel for rough spots.

 

[pickelltree]

Great info. Thanks.

The 3rd tire was the sticker again. The 1 inch by 1 inch sticker is paper plastic like. It cracks and causes a hole. I searched with a light inside the tire. There are no punctures.

I will try a power the next time I take one off

How do I know If the tube is to small? It is a 15 inch tube. It the other number was 13. I believe that is the length os the valve stem

The hole for the valve is larger then the stem. I will look for the grommets

2 tire guys here have told me to just run them without tubes. We tried it and the bead is good and holds air. On the tire it says tube type. I agree I should have have a tube, but if the bead stays what is the problem with running it tubeless.

My confidence is tested with tube tire when I know I can just plug a tubeless tire puncture and drive on in the bush.
The tires were made in 2013 in Peru

 

[NMC_EXP]

Only way I know to check tube fit is to put the tube in the tire (with tire completely dismounted or only the bottom bead on the wheel). Then air the tube up just enough to take the wrinkles out of the tube. This method is good for an oversize or stretched out tube. For an undersize tube it would be a judgement call. If the tube is properly sized it should be almost a snug fit inside the tire without the tube being stretched. If you have to inflate the tube so large it is stretched and thinning out before it fills the tire then it's too small.

In the US inner tubes used to be available for specific tire sizes and if it was a name brand tube it fit the tire. Since tubes became uncommon I've seen tubes advertised as fitting 7.00x15 AND 7.50x16 tires.......I have serious doubts about how well that would work. A tube sized for 7.00x15 and 7.50x15 should be OK.

The valve stem hole grommet is a tapered plastic ring that slides over the valve stem and fills the gap between the OD of the stem and ID of the hole in the wheel. If the valve stem is too small for the hole some tubes will bulge thru the gap and eventually crack and split. If the tube does not bulge thru the gap then sand, water...etc can infiltrate and cause problems.

Not having a tube in a tube type tire will not affect bead seating/retention. If a tube type is run without a tube the air pressure will bleed out thru the tire carcass. Symptom will be a steady loss in air pressure. I cannot say how fast pressure will be lost. If you have a tire gage check them when first inflated and keep checking them once or twice per day. If these are locally produced tires who knows....maybe the tire mold is marked tube type but they are constructing them as tubeless....?

As long as it's a small hole in the tread area tubeless is easier to fix.

Tube type tires are almost obsolete in the US. Never been to Peru but it seems like the tire guys there ought to be more familiar with tube type tires than they are here.

 

[Dizzy]

You could have a leak thru your valve stem. Sometimes the valve core is installed dirty, or loose. You can also have foreign matter on the surface where the valve stem seats. There is a tool for Schrader valve removal and installation. I always check mine after getting new tires. I also try to always use a pressure-seal valve cap.

 

[pickelltree]

Sorry for the delay

The 4th tire had a flat. It was the sticker again. So I took the 5th tire off and removed the sticker and put a patch over where it was. I’ve driven more then 1000 km since that. All is good. Driving on Patagonia dirt with many loose rocks and some pavement.

I have one tire in the back with tubeless valve in it and no tube as a test. It has also been fine. Not leaking any air. I check it often

Attached is a photo of the sticker

These skinny tires are great on the dirt and road. Have not hit snow or heavy heavy rain yet but all is good. They have less road noise then my last tires. So I think they are pretty quiet. I don’t have power steering and don’t have any struggles with turning The 9.5 inch mt I had before took a warm up and stretch before trying to parallel park

Being only 7 inches wide I do tend to fish tail more often but I’m not out of control

The ride over washboard is normal ruff. I have 38psi in them at the moment. The psi on the side says 75. But I’m heavy but not that heavy I’m wondering how a tube tire will preform with low psi if I’m driving in sand for example?

The second picture is of an Fj I saw down here. (Argentina) I’ve only see 4 so far. This one was very original. I would be very happy with this on also

 

[La Burra]

Hi Pickelltree, my Peruvian donkey has the same model tires but the 16x7.5 version. Bought from goodyear, Av. Canada, in Lima, who installed with (more expensive) goodyear tubes and liners (important). Got a good deal on 8 tires though (Burra + Trailer + 2 spares). After a legitimate puncture from a killer 6" thorn in the northern Peruvian desert, had a couple of problems due to incorrect refitting of the liner post puncture repair: you have to be careful to make sure the liner goes in as it came out, also any stickers or junk inside the tire will also make holes).

I use La Burra for work in the small mining sector and it takes me over some pretty rough terrain of all types along the desert coast and through the andes. Unless you are carrying enormous weights, I recommend you drop your normal running pressure to 30psi, your suspension and kidneys will thank you, and you can drop down to 25psi on really rough tracks no problem. Watch altitude, if you are going from sea level to 4000m, you will have higher pressure in your tires at the top, and vica versa.

The sidewall height on these "Pantaneras" as we call them in Peru is great for clearance, but at low pressure also will get you through sand better than a fat tire. I have run mine at 12psi in sand no problems, of course you are not driving like Dakar, you are going carefully to get out of a dune field and avoid a 6 hour walk in the hot sun!

These tyres are a great alternative for any terrain, and without power assist are easy on the arms even at L4 speeds.....

Here's a pic of La Burra loaded up after dismantling an exploration camp in the foothills of the andes in North Central Peru.