Good Suburban MD Mechanics? (1 Viewer)

[greytandy]

In the meantime, you may want to cover/hide the unregistered cruiser. Technically, in MD you can't have an unregistered vehicle on your property. I had an asshat neighbor call the authorities on me and forced me to register my vehicle much sooner than I had planned. He's now in some slumlord's hole in Fredneck along with his 7 rolling wrecks.

Believe me, I want it registered, but the ing MVA won't do it (yet). Luckily my next door neighbor has moved and I have the 40 backed up in their driveway while the house is empty. All the neighbors are pretty cool so it shouldn't be a problem. It will be a problem if I park it in the overflow lot as the HOA Nazis are always driving around looking for these things. Still has a (dead) Georgia plate!

 

[Yoda1]

I live in southern MD and would be willing to give you a hand .Maybe others from the area would be willing to do the same . I'm not a expert but have some mechanical skills and don't see anything we could not do as long as you have a manual. I'm new to the off roading community as i purchased a fj cruiser back in may . The more i can learn the better. Does anyone plan on going to Big Dogs in september ?

 

[greytandy]

I live in southern MD and would be willing to give you a hand .Maybe others from the area would be willing to do the same . I'm not a expert but have some mechanical skills and don't see anything we could not do as long as you have a manual. I'm new to the off roading community as i purchased a fj cruiser back in may . The more i can learn the better. Does anyone plan on going to Big Dogs in september ?

Thanks Yoda, I appreciate the offer. Felix has already very kindly visited me and shown me a lot of useful stuff. Thanks Felix!

I can do some stuff as I'm mechanically inclined, just not experienced. I have about a dozen things on my "to do" list, but only three are beyond my experience level.

(1) The carb on my newly rebuilt 1F is from a late '60s Ford. It appears to have a choke but it isn't connected to the cord. Also, maybe related, the engine starts just dandy but if given gas before it warms up it stalls.

(2) There's a ground problem with the brake lights. The tail lights work when using the turn signals, but not the brakes. I replaced the brake light switch to no avail.

(3) There's an oil leak somewhere in the transfer case.

I was planning on getting these checked out at a local shop. Other than that I'm ready to go!

 

[kulangot]

Thanks Yoda, I appreciate the offer. Felix has already very kindly visited me and shown me a lot of useful stuff. Thanks Felix!

I can do some stuff as I'm mechanically inclined, just not experienced. I have about a dozen things on my "to do" list, but only three are beyond my experience level.

(1) The carb on my newly rebuilt 1F is from a late '60s Ford. It appears to have a choke but it isn't connected to the cord. Also, maybe related, the engine starts just dandy but if given gas before it warms up it stalls.

(2) There's a ground problem with the brake lights. The tail lights work when using the turn signals, but not the brakes. I replaced the brake light switch to no avail.

(3) There's an oil leak somewhere in the transfer case.

I was planning on getting these checked out at a local shop. Other than that I'm ready to go!

I'd get a carb from Mark at Mark's Off Road or Jim C. Both are super guru's and actually charge reasonable rates for top notch service. If you decide to keep the carb you have, you need to adjust the choke or hook it up. I don't know much about the carb you have, but you can probably get it working better with some tinkering. If it's a Motorcraft 2100, it's a great carb but your still better off with OEM Aisin in my oppinion.

Regarding the brake lights, make sure you have the correct bulbs. Check the contacts in the light sockets and get a meter and see if you have continuity from the brake light switch to the brake light sockets. You may have a broken wire. Also, check the power source for that circuit at the fuse block.

Your transfercase is likely leaking at the emergency brake drum, pretty simple repair but you'll often wind up with it leaking again soon afterwards due the fact that the seal often winds up wearing a groove in the emergency brake drum where it slides into the back of the transfercase. You can fix this by getting a speedy sleeve fitted onto it or by replacing the drum (see below for another option) IIRC you can no longer get the early drum but the late model drum can be swapped on or you can find a good used one. If you're lucky, you can get away with just putting in a new seal. Get the factory service manual, in your case get both the correct one for you year and the later version as well as the newer version is much better with better illustrations and descriptions of what to do. You need a fishing scale (get the Shimano one) and some shims to do this job right. You'll also likely need a new set of brake shoes, a little rubber piece, some small brake parts and maybe an ajuster to get it all as good as new. Don't be intimidated, this is a cool Saturday project.

The best thing to do with these leaky e brake drums is to send the transfercase tail housing off to a guy named Gary Mudrak and have put a special double seal put in it. I think he's in the TLCA directory of shops and is another Cruiser Guru.

Have fun with it.

-Stumbaugh

 

[greytandy]

I'd get a carb from Mark at Mark's Off Road or Jim C. Both are super guru's and actually charge reasonable rates for top notch service. If you decide to keep the carb you have, you need to adjust the choke or hook it up. I don't know much about the carb you have, but you can probably get it working better with some tinkering. If it's a Motorcraft 2100, it's a great carb but your still better off with OEM Aisin in my oppinion.

Regarding the brake lights, make sure you have the correct bulbs. Check the contacts in the light sockets and get a meter and see if you have continuity from the brake light switch to the brake light sockets. You may have a broken wire. Also, check the power source for that circuit at the fuse block.

Your transfercase is likely leaking at the emergency brake drum, pretty simple repair but you'll often wind up with it leaking again soon afterwards due the fact that the seal often winds up wearing a groove in the emergency brake drum where it slides into the back of the transfercase. You can fix this by getting a speedy sleeve fitted onto it or by replacing the drum (see below for another option) IIRC you can no longer get the early drum but the late model drum can be swapped on or you can find a good used one. If you're lucky, you can get away with just putting in a new seal. Get the factory service manual, in your case get both the correct one for you year and the later version as well as the newer version is much better with better illustrations and descriptions of what to do. You need a fishing scale (get the Shimano one) and some shims to do this job right. You'll also likely need a new set of brake shoes, a little rubber piece, some small brake parts and maybe an ajuster to get it all as good as new. Don't be intimidated, this is a cool Saturday project.

The best thing to do with these leaky e brake drums is to send the transfercase tail housing off to a guy named Gary Mudrak and have put a special double seal put in it. I think he's in the TLCA directory of shops and is another Cruiser Guru.

Have fun with it.

-Stumbaugh

Hi Stumbaugh:

Thanks so much for taking the time to provide advice. I believe the carb is Champion, if that means anything. I think once I get the current carb hooked up correctly I may assess getting a better one. This one may end up working out, who knows. A more appropriate carb would be nice but the cost has put it lower on a long priority list.

The bulbs work as the lights and turn signals work, so I don't think it's a problem there. The brake switch is getting juice since I produced a few inadvertant sparks while removing the old brake switch. I started tracing the wiring for the grounding end but the mess of sorting out the wires was a bit more daunting than I had expected. I may try again if I can get a bit more time. Persistence has won me more than a few battles.

I think you're correct about the parking brake drum being (hopefully) the one source of the leak. I looked at a few diagrams and decided opening that puppy up and doing stuff may be a bit over my experience level. I know it's not hard, you just gotta know what to do. I don't want to inflict more damage. I remember an old commercial where a kid reassembles something and is proud he doesn't have any parts left over. I'm probably being a bit hard on myself, but discretion is the better part of self repair.

Thanks for all the help.

- Dave

 

[Felix]

I think you're correct about the parking brake drum being (hopefully) the one source of the leak. I looked at a few diagrams and decided opening that puppy up and doing stuff may be a bit over my experience level. I know it's not hard, you just gotta know what to do. I don't want to inflict more damage. I remember an old commercial where a kid reassembles something and is proud he doesn't have any parts left over. I'm probably being a bit hard on myself, but discretion is the better part of self repair.

Hi Dave,

I haven't dug into my parking brake, yet, so I'll spare you any specific advice. But about your experience level. . . rebuilding my rear drum brakes was the first semi-technical project I jumped into. I'd only changed oil before that. So, I speak from experience when I say that when you finally do pull that parking brake apart, you will be astounded at just how simple it is. You'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner. Really. The manuals (even the FSM) make it look more complicated than it is. Now, to be honest, I did have another more experienced guy help me out with the job, but I'm confident that if he weren't there I still would have been able to do it. It might have taken a little longer, but I think the main benefit of his being there was that it made me feel more at ease. Well, that plus his encouragement for me to hit that damn brake drum harder with the hammer to get it off.

 

[greytandy]

Hi Dave,

I haven't dug into my parking brake, yet, so I'll spare you any specific advice. But about your experience level. . . rebuilding my rear drum brakes was the first semi-technical project I jumped into. I'd only changed oil before that. So, I speak from experience when I say that when you finally do pull that parking brake apart, you will be astounded at just how simple it is. You'll wonder why you didn't do it sooner. Really. The manuals (even the FSM) make it look more complicated than it is. Now, to be honest, I did have another more experienced guy help me out with the job, but I'm confident that if he weren't there I still would have been able to do it. It might have taken a little longer, but I think the main benefit of his being there was that it made me feel more at ease. Well, that plus his encouragement for me to hit that damn brake drum harder with the hammer to get it off.

Hey Felix!

Yeah, I know, you're probably right. I should invest in a set of ramps and just start tinkering. At worst you can always just put it back together the way you found it (assuming your memory is good!). At this point my main focus has been just getting the thing registered. It's been very frustrating. MD wants a title, GA doesn't issue titles for older cars. So, I have to go through acrobatics to get the proper documentation. Meanwhile, I'm relegated to driving my 40 around the neighborhood because the GA tag is dead and it's driving me nuts! Okay, mini-rant over.

After things calm down I'll probably start tinkering in earnest.

- Dave

 

[Blue77FJ40]

I'm probably remembering wrong, but did you try the State police re how to register w/o a title? I think I remember that they may have a procedure that may help you. After all, they only care that the vehicle is legal and not stolen. MVA just wants the cash.

 

[greytandy]

I'm probably remembering wrong, but did you try the State police re how to register w/o a title? I think I remember that they may have a procedure that may help you. After all, they only care that the vehicle is legal and not stolen. MVA just wants the cash.

The State Police? No, I can't face them after "the incident". MVA states that I need documentation on Georgia DMV letterhead which confirms no title exists for the vehicle. A call to the GA DMV confirms they have my request and it will be mailed out this week. I also have the GA registration and am getting a notarized bill of sale. That should be it.

I don't think the MVA really cares about the cash, they just want to receive worksman's comp for repetitive stress from scratching their asses all day.

 

[teleguy11@yahoo.com]

The Md MVA is a *&^%$&$ joke. The only office I have had decent treatment from was the Belair office. They are capable of treating you like a adult and the service is much faster than other "city located" offices. I must agree that they ARE in it for the cash.
My 97 FZJ80 was inspected in West Va. just before I purchased it but good old Md. wants another inspection before they will issue me Md. tags.
Remember- Maryland, the tax state.

Arrrrggghhhhhh,

SHARK

 

[greytandy]

The Md MVA is a *&^%$&$ joke. The only office I have had decent treatment from was the Belair office. They are capable of treating you like a adult and the service is much faster than other "city located" offices. I must agree that they ARE in it for the cash.
My 97 FZJ80 was inspected in West Va. just before I purchased it but good old Md. wants another inspection before they will issue me Md. tags.
Remember- Maryland, the tax state.

Arrrrggghhhhhh,

SHARK

I ended up going to the Frederick office on the advice of my sister-in-law. Much more professional than the Beltsville office, and now I'm legal.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

The State Police? No, I can't face them after "the incident". .

Now that you are finally legal, we need a bit more info in this "incident" Just the facts, please.

 

[greytandy]

Now that you are finally legal, we need a bit more info in this "incident" Just the facts, please.

All I can say is that it involved hookers, fire engines, and chihuahuas. Any more would violate the terms of my parole.