Good Suburban MD Mechanics? (1 Viewer)

[greytandy]

Looking to find someone who knows what do to with an FJ40 when I need servicing? Any recommendations appreciated. Thanks.

 

[John Smith]

I don't have any shops I can refer you to but the 40 is a pretty simple vehicle to work on. Get a FSM and you will see just how simple.

 

[greytandy]

I don't have any shops I can refer you to but the 40 is a pretty simple vehicle to work on. Get a FSM and you will see just how simple.

What is an "FSM"? Field Service Manual? Where do I get one?

 

[Blue77FJ40]

What is an "FSM"? Field Service Manual? Where do I get one?

Factory Service Manual

Some alternatives and where to order reprints from Toyota:

1. Haynes available at any auto parts store or on eBay or autorepairmanuals.biz

2. Order the factory books from Toyota MDC (material distribution center)

Toyota Service Publications
750 West Victoria St.
Compton, CA 90220-5538

1(800) 622-2033

Engine
Chassis & Body
Emissions

3. Subscribe to: http://techinfo.toyota.com

 

[greytandy]

Factory Service Manual

Some alternatives and where to order reprints from Toyota:

1. Haynes available at any auto parts store or on eBay or autorepairmanuals.biz

2. Order the factory books from Toyota MDC (material distribution center)

Toyota Service Publications
750 West Victoria St.
Compton, CA 90220-5538

1(800) 622-2033

Engine
Chassis & Body
Emissions

3. Subscribe to: http://techinfo.toyota.com

Thanks.

 

[kulangot]

Where in Maryland?

 

[Felix]

He's in Olney.

greytandy, I'll 3rd the suggestion to get a manual and try to do the work yourself. I'll repeat what I was told shortly after getting my 40 (by the three guys who just posted in this thread): if you try to pay shop labor for everything that's going to need work, you'll get burned out really quick. If you've got the space, do the work yourself. Get dirty, cut open a couple knuckles, and a couple years from now you'll be proud that you've done all the work yourself.

There are two Factory Service Manuals: the engine manual, and body/chassis. There's a third emissions manual, but your 71 shouldn't need that one. As Dan said, they're easy to get by calling that Toyota number. Then there are the manuals printed by Haynes, Chillton, etc. If you're not sure about getting into repairing it yourself, just pick up the Haynes manual at first. It's not as detailed or accurate as the FSM, but it's $15, covers all topics, and available at most parts stores or even Barnes and Noble.

Felix

 

[kulangot]

I agree with everything Felix the cat and others said, but with one point to ad.

Not all new guys can handle every repair and even if you can, finding a good local guy who can do diagnostics for you, give you an inspection or smog sticker or do things that are not sensible to do DIY such as charing up AC where you need a vacuum pump to do it right.

I consider myself very handy but often wind up heading down to the local shop I go to have the vehicle checked out on the 4 gas machine, run it up on the lift to look for a leak or even get sage wisdom from a guy who's worked on cars for 30 years.

Often, they are happy to make $60 bucks to run a test as they don't want to work on my afflicted old car anyway. I take relatives cars there for repairs that I don't have time to do and they always appreciate the gravy work referrals.

This kind of contact is also worth it's weight in gold in regards to who the best local parts guys are and who has the best price on a certain part.

Buy the FSM's, buy some tools, read up on the posts but don't overlook your local shop for advice. Even if you are really handly, having someone else who good give you a hand on just a few things is a wise move for many entry level Do It Yourselfers.

I'll ask my friend in MD who owns a few shops who's good in Olney.

-Stumbaugh

PS www.4x4connection.com has some Toyota FSM's on sale in their bargain bin.

 

[Felix]

In a pm, greytandy explained to me that one of his concerns is getting it registered so he can drive it.

John and/or Dan, can you post up some info on MD tags? Differences between Historic and Street Rod registrations, whether they get you out of having to get state inspection, etc?

Thanks,
Felix

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Historic means that the vehicle is 25 or more years old and has *not* been modified substantially from its original form.

Street Rod means that the vehicle is 25 or more years old and has been modified substantially from its original form.

Both John and I chose to use Street Rod plates. I figured for whatever reason, that I'd be less hassled with SR plates. Best news is that there is no emission testing. Or any other testing for that matter. In MD, the only safety inspection is when the vehicle is purchased and is a requirement for the registration. Registration is much cheaper too. About $54 vs $154.

You can go to MD MVA site and download the Historic/Street rod pdf file to complete prior to registration.

There are caveats for vehicular use, such as not for daily transport, but if it's not abused, there shouldn't be any problems.

 

[John Smith]

Greytandy, Unless you plan on using the 40 as a daily driver I strongly suggest that you register the truck as a Historic vehicle if you do not plan to highly modify the truck and wheel it.

If you plan to SOA the truck or cut it up from stock form you should register it as a "Street Rod". In Maryland you do not need to inspect the vehicle or even take it for the every other year smog test if you register it as Historic or Street Rod. You simply go to DMV with the title and they hand over tags after you prove insurance.

There are restrictions on how often you can drive the Historic or Street Rod but unless you are daily driving it you should not run into any issues with the law. Both Dan and I have our trucks registered as Street Rods and have had no issues driving around.

Dan beat me to the reply. Dan correct me if I am wrong but I thought there is no inspection at all for Historic and Street Rods in MD. Sounds crazy I know.

Here is a link to FSMs in PDF format. http://www.birfield.com/downloads-cat-1.html

 

[greytandy]

Historic means that the vehicle is 25 or more years old and has *not* been modified substantially from its original form.

Street Rod means that the vehicle is 25 or more years old and has been modified substantially from its original form.

Both John and I chose to use Street Rod plates. I figured for whatever reason, that I'd be less hassled with SR plates. Best news is that there is no emission testing. Or any other testing for that matter. In MD, the only safety inspection is when the vehicle is purchased and is a requirement for the registration. Registration is much cheaper too. About $54 vs $154.

You can go to MD MVA site and download the Historic/Street rod pdf file to complete prior to registration.

There are caveats for vehicular use, such as not for daily transport, but if it's not abused, there shouldn't be any problems.

I thought about historical, but I didn't want to be hindered by the caveats. Not that I would likely run into a problem, but better safe than sorry to follow the law, especially when it comes to MVA. I'm likely being over cautious.

I believe "older" vehicles are exempt from emissions inspection regardless of registration.

I'm looking to Graeves Auto here in Olney. They've been around forever and have a good rep. Any other recs appreciated.

 

[greytandy]

Greytandy, Unless you plan on using the 40 as a daily driver I strongly suggest that you register the truck as a Historic vehicle if you do not plan to highly modify the truck and wheel it.

If you plan to SOA the truck or cut it up from stock form you should register it as a "Street Rod". In Maryland you do not need to inspect the vehicle or even take it for the every other year smog test if you register it as Historic or Street Rod. You simply go to DMV with the title and they hand over tags after you prove insurance.

There are restrictions on how often you can drive the Historic or Street Rod but unless you are daily driving it you should not run into any issues with the law. Both Dan and I have our trucks registered as Street Rods and have had no issues driving around.

Here is a link to FSMs in PDF format. http://www.birfield.com/downloads-cat-1.html

Thanks Blue and John. Okay, maybe I should reconsider Historic. Would be alot easier.

 

[Felix]

Dan beat me to the reply. Dan correct me if I am wrong but I thought there is no inspection at all for Historic and Street Rods in MD. Sounds crazy I know.

That doesn't sound too crazy. In VA, I've never had any kind of inspection on the 40 with historic plates. It would fail, too, because I don't have a working horn or parking brake.


greytandy, don't worry too much about the driving restrictions, as long as you're not daily driving it to work. They're just about the same in VA, and I've never had a problem. The only time I could see it being a problem is if you started driving it to work every day and you passed by the same cop a few times in a row.

As for the other restrictions, here's the info from MVA:

"It can only be used in exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, occasional transportation and similar uses."

Club activities = meetings, wheeling trips, tech days, etc

occasional transporatation = drives to test repairs, trips for ice cream, cruising for chicks, trips to the beach, anything else

You'll be alright.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

You're not wrong, John. I probably wasn't clear. The only safety inspection in MD is upon purchase, in order to register the vehicle. Upon which, a one time excise tax is paid (based on purchase price-minimum of $50/ or blue book).

Following the initial one time only safety inspection, there is no other inspection except for smog inspections - unless - either upon purchase or after the fact like we did, you register vehicle as Historic or Street Rod. Then there is no smog inspection.

 

[greytandy]

That doesn't sound too crazy. In VA, I've never had any kind of inspection on the 40 with historic plates. It would fail, too, because I don't have a working horn or parking brake.


greytandy, don't worry too much about the driving restrictions, as long as you're not daily driving it to work. They're just about the same in VA, and I've never had a problem. The only time I could see it being a problem is if you started driving it to work every day and you passed by the same cop a few times in a row.

As for the other restrictions, here's the info from MVA:

"It can only be used in exhibitions, club activities, parades, tours, occasional transportation and similar uses."

Club activities = meetings, wheeling trips, tech days, etc

occasional transporatation = drives to test repairs, trips for ice cream, cruising for chicks, trips to the beach, anything else

You'll be alright.

Thanks. At least my horn works - it'll wake the dead! That sucker made my neighbors jump.

 

[nilepoc]

Thanks to this thread, I now have a slow moving slow rusting street rod in my drive way.

cheers to you all.

 

[Felix]

Thanks to this thread, I now have a slow moving slow rusting street rod in my drive way.

cheers to you all.

Congratulations!!

 

[greytandy]

Thanks to this thread, I now have a slow moving slow rusting street rod in my drive way.

cheers to you all.

Congrats! Mine's in the driveway as well, as the ing MD MVA requires a title to register a vehicle, and one don't exist! Still drive it around the neighborhood though until I can get the necessary documentation. I hate the MVA.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

In the meantime, you may want to cover/hide the unregistered cruiser. Technically, in MD you can't have an unregistered vehicle on your property. I had an asshat neighbor call the authorities on me and forced me to register my vehicle much sooner than I had planned. He's now in some slumlord's hole in Fredneck along with his 7 rolling wrecks.