Builds Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB

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Also can burn your points with key on and the points in the closed position. Might want to give them a look.

No clue how to check them. I usually pull all this crap off but not the Goat.

Edit. Read up on points.

So if it runs like s*** after I get the thermostat in then I’ll look here first.

Any way to visualize a burned point?

Distributor Points NEED HELP
 
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Ok. Dumb me. I must have had the key in the ON position. I hooked it all back up and it was cool to the touch.

Turned the key to on and 10 min later it’s warm.

Normal I assume

(Disclaimer, all my recent Cruisers have had electronic ignition so I coil stupid)


Everyone forgets things. I myself, left a key in the "ON" position overnight and the there was not enough energy to start the vehicle, but the coil was warm to the touch. Applying 12 volts to a coil is the same as keeping a charger plugged in and it gets warm. Not an issue.
Now, @whitey45 is correct on points , if you have them. If they are closed they also could be affected. When I left my key "ON" , my points were in the open position, so, no possible issues.
 
IIRC from days gone by burned closed points tend to want to stay closed. In other words they’re fused.
 
There would not be any heat in the distributor area. @middlecalf said it correct, the points would fuse if closed over time and if you opened them they would lose their smoothness, and they are smooth so they can arc easily.
 
Ok, I’ll help get your mind off those silly points. What’s that flatish plate thingy circled in your pic? Looked at both my rigs and I don’t have anything, of course one rig is an SBC.
EE6BDC5D-4C95-4832-B597-91B3D297C4A3.webp
 
There would not be any heat in the distributor area. @middlecalf said it correct, the points would fuse if closed over time and if you opened them they would lose their smoothness, and they are smooth so they can arc easily.

Any way to visually inspect?
 
Yes. open distributor, remove points, and inspect contact points. Points are inexpensive and you may just want to change and gap a new set as it is very easy.

While you are educating me tell me what all this does in here

Are they closed?

08B03C0D-08CA-420E-80B8-552C791126D3.webp
 
While you are educating me tell me what all this does in here

Are they closed?

View attachment 1621832


Certainly appears so. If you look at the center shaft , there are 6 high spots on the shaft. there are flat spots also. Yours is sitting on the flat spot. That means they are closed. A few screws and they come out. When installing new ones, you will need to ensure the wiper that rubs on the center shaft is on a high spot. Then you can adjust the gap.


points.gif
 
Thank you. That diagram helps.

This is all assuming me leaving the key Burned them up though, right?

When I get my new thermostat housing and fire it up it could be fine, right?

I’ll order some in the mean time but the housing will get here first
 
Thank you. That diagram helps.

This is all assuming me leaving the key Burned them up though, right?

When I get my new thermostat housing and fire it up it could be fine, right?

I’ll order some in the mean time but the housing will get here first


Sure they could still be fine. You can do a simple check by putting your finger on the wiper side and move the points open and see if they are stuck, or easily opened. Image shows what to move.


dist.webp
 
Sure they could still be fine. You can do a simple check by putting your finger on the wiper side and move the points open and see if they are stuck, or easily opened. Image shows what to move.

Anyone know why my condensor is outside the dizzy.

View attachment 1621898

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