Glove box sagging and not dampened...
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My 2001 LX looks exactly like that
Tighten all the hinge screws. There's also a bolt securing the lock striker that loosens over time... tightening this made a big improvement. I was also missing a screw around the gbox surround causing some sag.
The damper string loop had come out of the crimped swage fitting. I opened up the swage and recrimped to form a loop around the plastic connector. I was going to buy a new damper but one of the bolts is buried underneath the center trim panel, too much work to remove.
The damper string loop had come out of the crimped swage fitting. I opened up the swage and recrimped to form a loop around the plastic connector. I was going to buy a new damper but one of the bolts is buried underneath the center trim panel, too much work to remove.
Check and make sure your bottom hinge screws actually go through the white threaded insert. On mine, I guess PO removed and replaced the glove box at some point and ended up making new holes below the white inserts. This resulted in a gap and slight sagging appearance at the top, similar to pictures earlier in this thread. Here is my glove box.
The front bolt on the damper is very easy to remove, the rear bolt/the one toward the back of the vehicle is damn near impossible.
Short of removing all of the trim any suggestions?
Short of removing all of the trim any suggestions?
Moral of the story: don’t screw in the wrong hole.
Niiiiiice thanks guys that worked brilliantly! Now where can I get a tailgate dampener?? 
Im trying to remove the dampner to replace it. How did you remove that bracket mine doesnt move. I removed the 1 nut and 1 bolt along with the dampner bolt. Am i missing something? I cant see in there if there is anything else.
I thought again re why glove box in my 2007 hangs a bit low on the left. Then it occured to me to look at the hinges and connections and noticed they are off and loose.above. Voila. So the in-box hinge only loosens and tightens only. Can't get it out and its crooked. See photo. Then i went after the catch above. That is a welded piece held by two scews. Its loose where it is attached above, likely never tightened. A real bugger to get to also. I am working those now. My bet those are why it sags.
I also can't figure out how to remove the bracket - can you help @TXLX007?
I can remove these two (1st photo - 2 circles in blue), but can't locate the 3rd one AND it feels like it's [the bracket] welded to this pipe that splits, 1 going down deep into the center console and the other one attached to that 2nd bottom circled bolt.
Any help is appreciated! Otherwise, i might just transfer the guts of a new damper into the housing of the old one and see if that holds.
Hey did you ever figure out how to get that damper off? dealing with that currently and cant figure it out.
Wait a minute, WHAT?! Damped globe box?! I had no idea. Time to go check mine...
The bad news is I never found out how to remove the damper unit.
But the good news is I figured out a different way.
Depending on what's wrong with yours, I ended buying buying a new damper from the dealer and taking out all the internals of the new damper to put into the old damper housing (which was already attached to the vehicle/impossible to remove)
I don't have any photos of the process, but if you see my photo above, the damper is pointed down towards the engine. There's a small cap on the engine side of the damper that has/should have/may be missing a string coming out of it.
If you just pop that cap off (it's super easy, like a Pringles can), you can remove the entire innards of the damper (which is composed of a long spring with a cap at one end, hooked to the string that then runs thru the spring to the other end, to then your glove compartment)
So just replace all the internals of the old damper with your new damper parts and you should be fine.
I haven't ran into any problems with this fix, and the glove works great, even with the extra grom vline weight.
But the good news is I figured out a different way.
Depending on what's wrong with yours, I ended buying buying a new damper from the dealer and taking out all the internals of the new damper to put into the old damper housing (which was already attached to the vehicle/impossible to remove)
I don't have any photos of the process, but if you see my photo above, the damper is pointed down towards the engine. There's a small cap on the engine side of the damper that has/should have/may be missing a string coming out of it.
If you just pop that cap off (it's super easy, like a Pringles can), you can remove the entire innards of the damper (which is composed of a long spring with a cap at one end, hooked to the string that then runs thru the spring to the other end, to then your glove compartment)
So just replace all the internals of the old damper with your new damper parts and you should be fine.
I haven't ran into any problems with this fix, and the glove works great, even with the extra grom vline weight.
If you're really persistent you can get the entire assembly out with an open end wrench working blindly. I really wish I would have found this thread and learned about transferring the guts of it before I took out the whole unit. Now I get to have fun putting a new one back in. I'll update this post when it happens.
Back for an update. Once again, if you're really persistent you can get the entire assembly re-installed. I'll do my best to describe what I did.
(not my pic, but my highlights)
I removed the two bolts circled in red to try and give myself a little extra leverage (both when removing and installing the part). Use an open end wrench to loosen the hidden bolt. Using a mirror would be very helpful here, or you could use a phone camera like I did but it was really hard to see. I did it mostly by feel. When you're removing the old assembly, you'll need to pull pretty hard on the area with the green star. The issue is this: when the bolt is backed out of the hole enough to remove the part, it's pressed up against the inside of this part of the dash. You need to free it up by pulling on the dash while you rotate it up and out.
For re-installation, I put the self tapping bolt into the new assembly about halfway before putting the part back into place. Re-installation is much like removal. I got it in place on the visible side but had it at an upward angle so the hidden side was above the bracket, pulled hard on the dash like before, and rotated it down and in. It took some trial and error. A couple times I rotated it down but it wasn't lined up properly with the bracket. You'll be able to feel when it's in place. Then you have to tighten it down the same way you loosened it: by feel/camera/mirror.
Just replace the guts like was mentioned earlier in the thread. I feel pretty silly with the amount of effort I went to for a "soft open" glove box. Good luck.
(not my pic, but my highlights)
I removed the two bolts circled in red to try and give myself a little extra leverage (both when removing and installing the part). Use an open end wrench to loosen the hidden bolt. Using a mirror would be very helpful here, or you could use a phone camera like I did but it was really hard to see. I did it mostly by feel. When you're removing the old assembly, you'll need to pull pretty hard on the area with the green star. The issue is this: when the bolt is backed out of the hole enough to remove the part, it's pressed up against the inside of this part of the dash. You need to free it up by pulling on the dash while you rotate it up and out.
For re-installation, I put the self tapping bolt into the new assembly about halfway before putting the part back into place. Re-installation is much like removal. I got it in place on the visible side but had it at an upward angle so the hidden side was above the bracket, pulled hard on the dash like before, and rotated it down and in. It took some trial and error. A couple times I rotated it down but it wasn't lined up properly with the bracket. You'll be able to feel when it's in place. Then you have to tighten it down the same way you loosened it: by feel/camera/mirror.
Just replace the guts like was mentioned earlier in the thread. I feel pretty silly with the amount of effort I went to for a "soft open" glove box. Good luck.
Its odd the partsouq diagram for my 99LC shows the damper part but it can't be highlighted/its not clickable. I also don't have the bracket to mount it too and my glove box door has no apparent attachment point for the string. So it looks like some [all] 99 LCs might not have damping for the glove box.
It's like the cargo cover. The parts diagrams show it and all the various parts need for installation but it is, in fact, forbidden fruit.
It's like the cargo cover. The parts diagrams show it and all the various parts need for installation but it is, in fact, forbidden fruit.
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Pretty sure 98 px doesn't have tye dampened glove box door either
See below...
It's best to attach the plastic thing to the glove box when the glove box is unscrewed from the dashYes, the key to making it easy is to unclip the plastic thing from the glovebox, then loop the string loop around the plastic thing, then position the glove box mostly in place and snap the plastic thing bvack on to the glove box. Infinitely easier than trying to secure the string loop on the plastic thing while the plastic thing is still on the box
I'm at the point now where if I bring the LX in for anything, I stick a big note on the glove box "DO NOT CHECK CABIN FILTER. IT'S FINE".
I was dealing with this today, replacing air filters and a broken damper, and figured the FSM might be good for tracking down the third bolt that was mentioned earlier. Clearly, this is for posterity rather than the original poster. Turns out, the bolt in question is located beneath the carpeting below the dash. Here's a picture, with my finger pointing to the bolt hole in the bracket. Hopefully the location is clear from other components visible:
With all three bolts removed, this bracket (it's one of the dash support members) can be finagled into a better position for removing the glovebox damper unit. It was still not easy for me to remove the damper at this stage, but it was doable. I removed the first bolt holding the damper to the support and then pivoted the damper a bit to get more clearance for shifting the support to access the rearmost bolt. Final extraction looked this:
The new damper won't install cleanly in that location; it interferes with various plugs and wires. My strategy was to half insert the rear damper screw, then relocate the support with damper partially attached and simultaneously set the damper in final position. The rear screw can then be fully tightened blind with a 10mm open wrench, and the front can be tightened with a socket. Reattach all support member bolts, then tuck the carpet back in and reinstall the glovebox.
