Gears or Flex? (1 Viewer)

[mtweller]

'78 FJ40

Got a few dollars to spend and curious what you guys think should come first. Right now, it's pretty stock on 33's and 4" lift springs. I tuned the suspension a little so I can get a decent amount flex for leafs. I'm thinking Orion now and then 4-link rear 3-link front later for my final goal w/ 35's. East coast wheeling mostly, but would like to be able to do some moderate crawling before it's all said and done. I am sticking w/ the 2F and probably stock axles w/ Longs.

Thoughts and opinions?

 

[pismojim]

Lockers?
Edit: missed the signature line, so make that front locker?

Then, little more flex or a lot more flex or a little more gear or a lot more gear?

I guess, I would think, 1) front locker (makes up for less flex) 2) "tune" suspension for a "little" more flex 3) gears.

 

[brokenparts]

Lockers?

Lockers for sure.

 

[mtweller]

I have rear Aussie, and love it, but REALLY feel like I need gears. W/ the stock 4sp/txfr, I have a crappy crawl ratio and struggle to "crawl" anything. I am really leaning towards an Orion first. The ARB in the front goes on the list after suspension/gears. I don't want a luchbox in the front.

 

[tntoyota]

flex > gears (get the tires on the ground)

traction > flex (get what tires are NOT in the air, or on loose surface to hook up)


traction(1st, & gear$ $ame time $ave money) + flex(2nd) + gears =


I would say gears are last purely on the basis you might want to find the tire diameter first but setting up your diffs one time will save you $$$$

 

[pismojim]

ARB Front is excellent choice. (I have ARBs FF &RR)

Gears are another excellent choice and something you will totally enjoy.

I have Marlin's ToyBox (4.7 gear) between my stock 4spd and split case. With 4.56 R&P, my crawl ratio went from about 30:1 to 173:1. It is the best mod is so many ways. Of course, I have a wagon and like to play in the rocks.

I'm sure you would not regret the Orion case.

 

[Mace]

lockers, gears then flex.

With lockers you can easily go places an unlocked, flexier rig can.

Gearing helps you go to those areas with more finesse..

 

[Tapage]

X2 with Mace ..

Lockers then gears then Flex .. lockers can compensate flex in much situations ..

 

[bustanutley]

What mace said. And I think you underestimate the cost of linking. I would do an orion and an ARB/Detroit. And I personally wouldn't do an orion but that is another discussion...

 

[mtweller]

I figure I can link it up for under 2k doing all the work myself and making my own brackets and 1/4 elliptical in the rear and maybe SOA front. It'll take more time that way, but that's how I roll

I don't see how a front locker would help when I'm constantly having to use clutch, in other words, NO crawl (when traction is there w/ current setup). I smoked the clutch on one obstacle, I'm not a skinny pedal kinda' driver.

 

[Mace]

Get off the clutch..

Part of what you are asking really depends on what type of wheelin you do. The answers were generalities.
If you feel that you have enough traction then gear it. Suspension won't help you...

 

[mtweller]

Thanks guys.

 

[wngrog]

Save your money on the ARB and get another Aussie in the front and a Phat set of 30 spline longs. With the leftover money start saving for an Orion.

 

[trooper+]

aussie not the best choice for the rear imo. the carrier pin doesnt get qa tight enough ffit and it can rattle around and shear off, i have had to replace many on customers trucks. throw you rear 3rd with the aussie up front, get a detriot for the rear, get 4.88s, then do the suspention mods you spoke of, or go for a simple spring over wiht a set of stock springs in good shape, oh and longs with hub gears for sure. if you go with the arb front like you mentioned, get it the same time as your gears so you dont have to get the gears set up twice. the orion case is kool but i would go fot the marlin toybox setup, i love having a reduction box rather then just a lower lowrange, the gear options are wicked. sometimes you just want a stock lowrange. any ways just my 2cents

 

[Mace]

aussie not the best choice for the rear imo. the carrier pin doesnt get qa tight enough ffit and it can rattle around and shear off, i have had to replace many on customers trucks. throw you rear 3rd with the aussie up front, get a detriot for the rear, get 4.88s, then do the suspention mods you spoke of, or go for a simple spring over wiht a set of stock springs in good shape, oh and longs with hub gears for sure. if you go with the arb front like you mentioned, get it the same time as your gears so you dont have to get the gears set up twice. the orion case is kool but i would go fot the marlin toybox setup, i love having a reduction box rather then just a lower lowrange, the gear options are wicked. sometimes you just want a stock lowrange. any ways just my 2cents

How many Carrier pins have you seen sheared?

Land cruiser stuff only please.

 

[fj40forlife]

from 33 to 35s would be soa. 4 link is alot of money for just like 33 or 35.

I say gears.

 

[R.K.]

I would say to get a LockRight or Aussie for the front and then some 30 spline Longs. You can make up for a lack of flex if you have traction.

Then I would get lower gearing with the Orion. It won't effect highway gearing like regearing the axles would. And it's the easiest way to get a lower crawl since you don't have to modify your driveshafts.

I would do the suspension last. If you're only going with 35s I would just do a spring-over/shackle reversal. You would come out a lot cheaper doing the SOA, link suspensions are expensive to build.

I'm assuming you already have power steering. If not, I would do it before anything else.

 

[Eskimo]

How many Carrier pins have you seen sheared?

Land cruiser stuff only please.

Yeah, no kidding.


Anyway, in my personal experience, I was able to go a TON of places with limited flex (SUA 2.5"), lockers F&R, and a decent crawl.

Gearing before flex.. every time.

But when you do reach that point, SOA front / linked rear works pretty damn well.

 

[woody]

I concur....gear first.....flex is useless if you can't go slow enough to keep control of it...

the Orion is a good choice if you plan to keep the driveline similar....otherwise go whole hog and drop in a 350/auto/Atlas and be done with it...

I have been really pleased with my SOA front and 1/4 ellip rear....cheap, flexy, balanced, but heavy....

 

[mtweller]

Thanks for everyone's input. This is, obviously, a personal preference opinion type question. My wheeling experience is so limited as of now. I was thinking of linking because I get so uncomfortable with the amount of body roll I get in off-camber stuff and watching the linked suspensions make me wish for that type of control.

I am almost certain I will go Orion b/c I like the overdrive properties of bigger tires (vs R&P swap, which to me is a lot of money for limited return). I don't feel like going to all the trouble of driveshaft/crossmember of a reduction box. I want to bench build the Orion and minimize downtime too.

Again, thanks for any and all input.