Gauges showing misreading Fj60 (1 Viewer)

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Beehanger

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Hi all,
I’m recalling that my temp fuel and oil pressure gauges were showing incorrect readings (s stuck all the way high or low) when my cruiser was running two years ago.

What’s the best way to tell if the pods are the issue, a loose or dirty connection, or the entire cluster needs replacement?

As I’m breaking in the new engine I think these gauges would be very important so need a quick solution as I’m firing it up here soon.

I have am electronic oil pressure gauge I bought to check for the few minutes it’s idling and breaking in the engine , but beyond that I don’t have remedies.


Dan
 
Gauges are nice but cheaper model toyotas don’t have oil pressure gauges. So it’s not mission critical.
On first start up you can use a hand held infrared temperature gun to verify the engine isn’t getting too hot.
And Volts? Not really necessary. If the headlights are bright, then the alternator is working.

Ultimately- yeah. Youll want new gauges. OEM are no longer available so you’d need to go the Autometer route or another direction.
(Speedhut)

IMG_2011.jpeg
 
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Gauges are nice but cheaper model toyotas don’t have oil pressure gauges. So it’s not mission critical.
On first start up you can use a hand held infrared temperature gun to verify the engine isn’t getting too hot.
And Volts? Not really necessary. If the headlights are bright, then the alternator is working.

Ultimately- yeah. Youll want new gauges. OEM are no longer available so you’d need to go the Autometer route or another direction.
(Speedhut)

View attachment 3340340
is the dash scold separately usually or is this one reused with new pods?
 
is the dash scold separately usually or is this one reused with new pods?
anyone know the operating temp on a 2f? online say 180-210 F. Is there a number that if hit the engine should be shut off? i have one of these head checker guns you're talking about -- just aim it at the side of the block eh? Is the reading gunna be the same as the internal engine/ coolant temp tho?
 
When idling, it shouldn’t rise above 230°. 265° is overheating. “Normsl” idling temperature can be 185°-220°

Point the gun at the front of the radiator directly across the big inlet hose. That’s where the hot coolant enters. It’s the hottest part of the radiator and the best location to measure coolant temperature flowing past the thermostat.

The thermostat is set to open at around 195°, so 220° just idling is pretty hot (but toyota wouldn’t call it overheating).
 
When idling, it shouldn’t rise above 230°. 265° is overheating. “Normsl” idling temperature can be 185°-220°

Point the gun at the front of the radiator directly across the big inlet hose. That’s where the hot coolant enters. It’s the hottest part of the radiator and the best location to measure coolant temperature flowing past the thermostat.

The thermostat is set to open at around 195°, so 220° just idling is pretty hot (but toyota wouldn’t call it overheating).
Thanks man!
 
I you look in the body electrical section of the Factory Body and Chasis Manual, there are some procedures for trouble shooting. When the needle deflects to the maximum or minimum this usually indicates some electrical problem. There is a gauge fuse that should be checked. but there may be a ground fault or broken wire.

When using the infrared thermometer, only measure the parts that are filled with coolant, like the radiator or radiator hoses, as OSS recommends. other parts of the engine, such as the exhaust manifold will get much hotter and this is normal. combustion takes place at several hundred degrees and as that heat dissipates through the engine it is "removed" by the coolant.
 

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