Gas tank rust advice (1 Viewer)

Joined
Oct 7, 2019
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251
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Texas
Howdy all

Recently got a 97 LX that’s sat since 2014. PO parked it nearly empty (added 5 gal right before he sold it) as expected there’s some rust. Have a new bracket/pump/sending unit on the way to get it running again- curious what y’all would do about the tank?

I was originally thinking dropping it and treating it with muriatic acid. Concerned about bare metal and rusting after that. I’m WFM and really only go out on the weekends- wouldn’t be uncommon for it to sit for a week with half a tank. Don’t wanna battle flash rust in this situation.

Other option I’m thinking is sending it with a spliced inline filter somewhere easy to access and replacing that until it runs clean.

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Joined
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I've had good results on motorcycle tanks using electrolysis. The instructions are easy enough to find, and it doesn't have the nastiness of muriatic acid. I haven't had a flash rust problem with this method. I rinse out the tank, shake all the water I can get out, then follow it with high percentage rubbing alcohol and finish with oil diluted in alcohol.

Or you could just buy a used tank and pump/sender assembly from a less rusty area. My rig lived its life in New Mexico and Oregon. There was barely any rust in the tank and no corrosion on the pump/sender assembly.
 
Joined
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If I was going through all the work of pulling off a tank on an 80 series I would just install a new tank.
 
Joined
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If I was going through all the work of pulling off a tank on an 80 series I would just install a new tank.
^^this

I considered cleaning mine when I dropped it, but the inside of theses tanks are coated and the likelihood that you'll a) get it clean, and b) be able to replace the coating are both very slim.
 
Joined
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I bought a used tank from @slow95z and shipped it for a lot less than a new tank.

New tanks are around $485.

Cleaning tanks is time consuming and I would only consider it if there were no longer parts available, like for my Studebaker.

Never, ever coat the inside of a gas tank. It never succeeds long term.

Only store the truck with ethanol free gas or at least have Sta-Bil in the fuel.
 

McDowra

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At work we use a local radiator shop that cleans the tank and then puts an epoxy coating in them, we have had zero problems with them after that.
 
Joined
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sending it with a spliced inline filter somewhere easy to access and replacing that until it runs clean.

I'd be tempted to do this, at least short term while you get the truck running so that you can assess all of it's needs and prioritize them. Of course if it never acts up then you can just keep delaying the tank replacement.

It's definitely cruddy, and may drive you crazy with clogged filters, but I've gotten away with running worse with minimal extra effort while I figured out my plans for the vehicle. You may see some benefit from scrubbing what you can off the inside of that tank with a toilet brush/similar and then draining it all out. Possibly do that a few times to get most of the larger chunks out at least and that could help your secondary filter(s) last longer. I'd likely just use Gas or Diesel for the refill/scrub/rinses and avoid the water/soap/acid route, etc. unless you plan to pull the tank and really go after it.

Once the tanks out though I'd be looking for a new one personally. Not only are the coatings hard to get right but if pressure has been allowed to build in the tank it could get stress cracks on the top (reported on numerous 80s on the forum) so starting with a new tank, while not strictly necessary, should eliminate a few possible issues long term and be easier than coating and other possible repairs.
 
Joined
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Texas
Appreciate the advice everyone. I think I'm gonna pull the tank (doesn't seem bad once the driveshaft is out of the way) and see what a local radiator shop says. If they can't do anything probably source a new one. Got plenty of time since the toyota of decatur fuel assembly order is probably 2-3 weeks out.
I bought a used tank from @slow95z and shipped it for a lot less than a new tank.

New tanks are around $485.

Cleaning tanks is time consuming and I would only consider it if there were no longer parts available, like for my Studebaker.

Never, ever coat the inside of a gas tank. It never succeeds long term.

Only store the truck with ethanol free gas or at least have Sta-Bil in the fuel.
Mind sharing your source? Cheapest I've found for the tank (77001-69036) is $355.99 at Partsouq. OOS unfortunately.
 
Joined
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Appreciate the advice everyone. I think I'm gonna pull the tank (doesn't seem bad once the driveshaft is out of the way) and see what a local radiator shop says. If they can't do anything probably source a new one. Got plenty of time since the toyota of decatur fuel assembly order is probably 2-3 weeks out.

Mind sharing your source? Cheapest I've found for the tank (77001-69036) is $355.99 at Partsouq. OOS unfortunately.
McGeorge Toyota online in Virginia.

www.toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

Also check Olathe Toyota.

Check with your local dealer to see if they will match price and avoid freight.

Also check with @arcteryx he's in Austin.
 
Joined
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Pulled gas tank in an hour thirty. Kind of a pain in the ass. Removed driveshaft, unbolted the drivers side straps, and wiggled it out. Giant pita trying to remove the inlet hoses, I just cut mine and plan to replace. Tank looks way worse drained. Still gonna see what radiator shop says before tossing in a new one.
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Joined
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I JUST cleaned one WAY worse than that. Just installed it today. It was pulled by the PO back in 2011 to change the fuel pump and it has sat in the bed since then.

I used phosphoric acid I had on hand, I use it a lot to clean parts. It does not attack the metal like muriatic (pool) acid does. Normally I use it straight but the stuff is about $12 per gallon at Home Depot. I had three gallons so that's what I used and the rest was water. The tank and pump mounting bracket look new again. Even the rusty fuel sending unit is working again.

Before putting in the acid I vacuumed out all the crud then pressure washed out what I could. I positioned it so I could fill it to the top so I left everything in place to plug all openings. Mine was so crusty I let it sit over the weekend.

This is in a truck I just bought to get running and sell. The tank is spotless and I didn't have to spend the money for a new one.

The product I use is in the paint section for prepping concrete. I use it to clean inside my engine blocks mainly. I'll get a pic of the jug and post it.

This stuff is not too bad to work with. If you get it on your hands it dries out your skin. It's not like the movies where it eats your flesh away. Ha ha. If I still had a radiator shop around that would flush it, I would have gone that route.
 
Joined
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I'd get a new tank from someone parting one out. They are not a sought after part. I threw one away recently.
 
Joined
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I think someone put the wrong tires on your 80, they should be the round type IIRC.
 
Joined
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A replacement is always best. A used one might not be any better. New is best choice if within your budget.

I was just giving you a cleaning option.

Good luck with whatever you decide. 👍
 

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