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Back to Vegas today and the temp was 100. No gas smell and no pressure to speak of when I removed the gas cap. I even continued putting gas in after the nozzle clicked off. Have under filled the tank in the past to see if it would make a difference, but it did not. In Vegas for 10 days and will see what happens at different temps.
Bumping this. Ever since I had gas boiling on a wheeling trip about 3 weeks ago I've been getting the same chemical smell on the drivers side after driving in 100+ degree weather. Anyone have any insight 5 years later on how to prevent this? It's not getting in the cabin but is very noticeable once you park and step outside.
Pretty standard. Almost smells like bad glue? Your system isn't venting all the built up pressure from the heat. Try not filling your tank all the way for a while. Even a 1/2 tank if you can deal with the hassle.
VSVs... Yes, they will test good, but not work right because they are gummed up. Also, the system will leak fumes from the vac lines if they are dired up and loose-fitting. Replace at least the VSV on the engine side, and the dried-up vac lines between the canister and the engine and intake. Put a new gas cap on, too. This is about $60 worth of parts and there is a good chance this will fix you up.Bumping this thread. Our 99 is making the same smell after getting good and hot on a drive. It used to just do it after real long highway trips, now it's getting more frequent. Fuel level doesn't seem to make a difference.
We had an old Ford truck that started making the same smell. One of the vacuum lines had broken and the charcoal canister was just building up collected gas crap.
I tested both the EVAP VSVs using Techstream, they both click when activated as expected. I suppose it's possible that the VSVs could malfunction when hot, and not vent the canister?
I'm going to try bypassing the VSV on the manifold and see if I can suck anything out of the canister.
VSVs... Yes, they will test good, but not work right because they are gummed up. Also, the system will leak fumes from the vac lines if they are dired up and loose-fitting. Replace at least the VSV on the engine side, and the dried-up vac lines between the canister and the engine and intake. Put a new gas cap on, too. This is about $60 worth of parts and there is a good chance this will fix you up.
I've been thinking for some time that the evap canister isn't really the whole problem some people have, that they are ignoring the VSV on the engine as a possible culprit. Can you please report back here if this resolved your problems?