Gas smell from cabin, almost natural gas smell (1 Viewer)

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Aug 1, 2009
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Hi all, just started smelling a faint gas smell from inside the cabin of my 2003 LC. ~87k miles. It doesnt really smell like gasoline, but more like a natural gas/propane smell.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
Couple thoughts: I think, but am not 100% certain, the charcoal Evap Canister is still located in the engine bay (right in front of the brake booster atop the driver's side fender)...on hot days I sometimes will get a similar smell from the canister venting...I need to replace it but at $300 just for the darn Evap Canister I keep putting it off. IIRC in either '03 or '04 Toyota relocated the Evap Canister to the rear spare tire area...

Or if you've, like many, have run your diff and t-case breather lines up to the engine bay firewall could it be the pungent smell of gear lube?
 
Gas smell in 2003 LC

The 2003 Land Cruiser canister is located above the spare tire. I have the same issue, but it only happens when the outside temp is in the 103 to 108 range. I drive from the Bay Area to Vegas often. This last trip from Vegas, it was 100 and under and I had no gas smell. Someone suggested not over filling the gas tank, which I used to do, but on this trip it didn't make any difference, I still had the smell in the high temps.

In high temps, there is a lot of pressure that bleeds off when I open the gas cap, but one fillup was at 95 degrees and no noticeable pressure. I would think it would have the problem at any temp if the canister is bad or hose was plugged.

Anyone with these problems?
 
I had this problem last week going from Las Vegas up to Mount Charleston (about 7000 ft altitude) on one of those 99 degree days. I could hear and smell the evap system cannister bubbling and venting. Did not smell like gasoline, smelled like a chemical or propane.
 
I have had this issue over the past year. Every time i hauled anything on a hot day i would have to wait for my truck to cool down prior to starting, and the gas smell was so strong it would choke you. I read this thread and the next time I hauled my camper I noticed gas coming out of my gas cap, vapor was pouring out and running down the side of the truck. I went to Auto Zone and replaced my fuel cap with the OEM version and it is solved ($9). No more smell, no more issues starting on hot days. If you are smelling gas, replace your cap. It fixed my extreme issues, so it should be the fix you are looking for.
 
I replaced my cap last year hoping that would be the fix. Didn't work for me.
 
Same issue here, turns out it was Taco Bell.
 
I wish it were Taco Bell...replaced the cap some time ago and didn't make any difference. No fuel leak either. My gas mileage is about the same in hot or cool weather. Every time I remove the gas cap, when over 100, there is a lot of pressure that releases, indicating the system is sealed. When the temps are down, no unusual pressure release. I hate being a parts replacer, but so far it sounds like it could be the expensive canister. Another good reason not to be a parts replacer mechanic.
 
This is very ironic, because I smelled gas fumes last Thursday. I have a 2000 LC with 194,000 miles on it. After reading the other posts above, this provides me with some piece of mind. I had just filled up my tank, it was in the mid to high 80's, and 30 minutes later, was doing some serious 4 wheeling up Lead King Basin, reaching altitudes between 8-10K feet above sea level. When I reached the trail head, my engine was making some unusual noises as it was trying to cool down. Two days later, when I came back to my LC from my backpacking trip, it was 45 degrees out in the morning, it started up just fine and no more smell of gasoline!
 
We have been haveing 102+ days here in Texas. If i drive more than 15 minutes i smell the smell you guys are talking about. there are funny water tinkling sounds from the area under hood over left front wheel area. Truck is still working just fine. I think I am having similar issue. IT is not a gas smell, but a chemical smell.


drp
 
Back to Vegas today and the temp was 100. No gas smell and no pressure to speak of when I removed the gas cap. I even continued putting gas in after the nozzle clicked off. Have under filled the tank in the past to see if it would make a difference, but it did not. In Vegas for 10 days and will see what happens at different temps.
 
Back to Vegas today and the temp was 100. No gas smell and no pressure to speak of when I removed the gas cap. I even continued putting gas in after the nozzle clicked off. Have under filled the tank in the past to see if it would make a difference, but it did not. In Vegas for 10 days and will see what happens at different temps.

Did you replace the canister, or is it still the same one?
 
Still the same canister. Today, the temp was at 102 and when I parked, I could smell gas outside, near the fuel cap. I opened the cap and there was enough pressure Tom push the cap off, once fully unscrewed. My guess is 15 to 20 psi. Same driving habits and locations as the day before where there was no smell and no pressure.
 
Bumping this. Ever since I had gas boiling on a wheeling trip about 3 weeks ago I've been getting the same chemical smell on the drivers side after driving in 100+ degree weather. Anyone have any insight 5 years later on how to prevent this? It's not getting in the cabin but is very noticeable once you park and step outside.
 
Bumping this. Ever since I had gas boiling on a wheeling trip about 3 weeks ago I've been getting the same chemical smell on the drivers side after driving in 100+ degree weather. Anyone have any insight 5 years later on how to prevent this? It's not getting in the cabin but is very noticeable once you park and step outside.


Pretty standard. Almost smells like bad glue? Your system isn't venting all the built up pressure from the heat. Try not filling your tank all the way for a while. Even a 1/2 tank if you can deal with the hassle.
 
Pretty standard. Almost smells like bad glue? Your system isn't venting all the built up pressure from the heat. Try not filling your tank all the way for a while. Even a 1/2 tank if you can deal with the hassle.

Alright, worth a shot.
 
Bumping this thread. Our 99 is making the same smell after getting good and hot on a drive. It used to just do it after real long highway trips, now it's getting more frequent. Fuel level doesn't seem to make a difference.

We had an old Ford truck that started making the same smell. One of the vacuum lines had broken and the charcoal canister was just building up collected gas crap.

I tested both the EVAP VSVs using Techstream, they both click when activated as expected. I suppose it's possible that the VSVs could malfunction when hot, and not vent the canister?

I'm going to try bypassing the VSV on the manifold and see if I can suck anything out of the canister.
 
Bumping this thread. Our 99 is making the same smell after getting good and hot on a drive. It used to just do it after real long highway trips, now it's getting more frequent. Fuel level doesn't seem to make a difference.

We had an old Ford truck that started making the same smell. One of the vacuum lines had broken and the charcoal canister was just building up collected gas crap.

I tested both the EVAP VSVs using Techstream, they both click when activated as expected. I suppose it's possible that the VSVs could malfunction when hot, and not vent the canister?

I'm going to try bypassing the VSV on the manifold and see if I can suck anything out of the canister.
VSVs... Yes, they will test good, but not work right because they are gummed up. Also, the system will leak fumes from the vac lines if they are dired up and loose-fitting. Replace at least the VSV on the engine side, and the dried-up vac lines between the canister and the engine and intake. Put a new gas cap on, too. This is about $60 worth of parts and there is a good chance this will fix you up.

I've been thinking for some time that the evap canister isn't really the whole problem some people have, that they are ignoring the VSV on the engine as a possible culprit. Can you please report back here if this resolved your problems?
 
VSVs... Yes, they will test good, but not work right because they are gummed up. Also, the system will leak fumes from the vac lines if they are dired up and loose-fitting. Replace at least the VSV on the engine side, and the dried-up vac lines between the canister and the engine and intake. Put a new gas cap on, too. This is about $60 worth of parts and there is a good chance this will fix you up.

I've been thinking for some time that the evap canister isn't really the whole problem some people have, that they are ignoring the VSV on the engine as a possible culprit. Can you please report back here if this resolved your problems?

I started a new thread on this, but I noticed our 100 has a stuck open thermostat and never gets to full operating temperature. Hopefully someone knows: does the computer wait until the engine is fully warm before purging the canister? I’d like to be able to solve both issues with just a thermostat replacement. Otherwise, I have sourced VSVs and can order if needed.
 

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