Garrett gt20-52 turbo charger for 3b?

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here is a pic of that flange that i found. the only problem is that the inside wall doesn't taper. Its a straight wall. The opening on the turbo is 2.25", it then tapers out to about 2.75".
pics of both included.
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So i found a mandrel bent 90 elbow. Its 16 gauge with a 4in radius. That should probably do the trick.

Now would exhaust shops have an elbow like this or is it just cheaper to buy off the internet? I'll probably end up getting a exhaust flange made for it just like the one pictured below.

Ishobie what kind of mating surface did your flange have was it tapered to match the gt2052 exhaust opening?
 
I think i was misunderstood. I have the adapter plate for the manifold,
What i'm confused about is the turbine exhaust end. what mounts to the turbine exhaust housing? Like I said before if i buy or build a exhaust flange as pictured below and mount bolt it to the turbine exhaust surface will i need gaskets? will the flange have to be tapered to match the taper on the turbine exhaust. Let me know if this makes sense
cheers
 
If that flange you bought is correct, then you will just need to flare the end of the pipe connecting to the turbo outlet. The flared pipe mates directly to the outlet flare, with no sealers or gaskets. Many factory fitted exhaust systems use springs compressed under shouldered bolts to give some movement and flex to the joint.

Rick
 
Thanks!
I had the feeling that is how it's supposed to work. Now the collar's inside diameter needs to be the same size as the outside diameter of the down pipe I want to use right? If this is true then the collar I found isn't big enough. It's 2.25" and I want a 2.5" exhaust. Can a 16ga pipe be flared? Or do I need to flare regular exhaust pipe and weld the flare onto the downpipe, as ishobie mentioned?
 
I don't see any problem having a flared 2 1/4" section to meet the turbo which flares out to join a 2.5" pipe afterwards.
 
A flared 2.25 pipe won't fit that properly, I had to weld the pipe onto my 90 because it was stainless - you can't flare a stainless piece without cracking it. if you used a 2.5 piece of cold rolled then you can flare it.

I suppose you could use a 2.25 if you made a very large flare - but then why would you weld a 2.5 to it afterwards.
 
update on project

I'm getting close to getting the kit together. The last few parts are on their way.
Yesterday I picked up

90 degree mandrel 2.5" elbow
Stainless steel braided oil feed line 3'
1/8th bspt to 1/8 npt male to male adapter
a "T" female to female for the oil sender
Two 1/8th npt males for the feed line
bung for the oil pan
brass elbow 3/4" (drain line)
Oil flange

Today I picked up
Free 2.5" Aluminum intake pipe (turbo to intake)
Free 2.5" Mild steel flared pipe
5 large pipe clamps
2 small pipe clamps
3 m8 1.25 bolts for wastegate flange
4 m10 1.25 bolts for adapter ( I forgot the other four for the other side)
3' of 3/4" silicone hose (that one was a tough one to find, i got it at "American flex in Ballard")

And then the other day my friend and I made an exhaust collar (At the UW machine shope) to bolt the elbow flare to the turbo outlet/wastegate (That was fun). The piece of steel was free (0.9cm)

The last few items I'm waiting on is a 90 degree silicone elbow and a 2" to 2.5" reducer coupler. (coming in the mail)
I'm still waiting on my friends machinist father to finish up the adapter plate.
I also still don't know what i'm going to do for a gasket on the ct26 side of the adapter plate (any suggestions?). I called Seattle toyota and they wanted $64 for a gasket.
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