GarnerFJ40's Progress

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You need to follow Charles (aka Cruiser_Guy)'s lead, except for the part where you become a missionary unless that's what God calls you to do. HERE is the thread. It is one of my favorites on mud and I daydreamed about buying his pig and even made him an offer but I wasn't close enough to his number.
 
rw74228 said:
Im thinking more along the lines of this:

DSCF3559.sized.jpg
Click to expand...

I'm digging the pop-out rear window.
 
That interior is in great shape. have you lifted up the mats? What are the floorboards like?
 
I've lifted up the driver and passenger side and there are a few rust-throughs, so there will be some new metal added, but not an entire floor pan like on my 40.

Not sure of the back seat, but the cargo area has surface rust on top, but looks solid.

I hope to get some time this weekend and dig into it a little more.
 
Only seems fitting since its spent its time in Clayton....

Nice find again Brian, A/C unit looks a little different then we were talking about. Seems only fitting since this has been sitting in the woods for so long and you are the second owner of a local truck....

piggly.webp
 
I was actually thinking the three immediate stickers would be the TLCA, ONSC, and a Piggly Wiggly sticker...
 
So just a little update on the Pig front...

Got the other old dry rotted car tires off, and my old AT's from the 40 are now on it. Gives it a much better stance, and I think it's staying at that height for now. No lift unless the drive is so horrible that new springs are in order.

Last inspection sticker on the window is 1976 and it's a 1971, the odometer shows 67K. So it either got pulled off the highway for farm use only, or something kept it from running.

Tried to drain the oil, but that drain plug is on there something fierce. PB Blaster is working on it...

Got new keys made up at Busse's Locksmith in Downtown Raleigh, did a great job. Also got new door keys made for the Project 40, and spares for all ignitions... about $70 for all.

Slapped a battery in it and tried to give it a start, and "CLUNK". No movement, and from the research I've done and the optimist in me, I'm hoping it's the starter firing up, but not actually engaging the flywheel... But, I haven't tried to move it in gear to see if I get any belt/fan movement. I'm actually thinking of cutting the belts off, as the pulleys have seen better days...

But, worse comes to worse I have the "working" 1F in the basement that could be swapped in...
 
Brian, look under the rear seat and you should find a crank that will allow you to turn the crank pulley on the front of the engine through a little hole in the bottom of the front grill, I would start with that and make sure the motor spins with ease. you can always drop a little marvel in the spark plugs holes and let it sit a few days as well.
 
So, switching back to Green 40. Spent most of Sunday tearing up the carb and rebuilding it to hopefully fix my acceleration problems. Again, only happens going up inclines or getting up to 3rd gear or so. So, as far as I've read the primary culprit seemed to be the power jet in the carb. I can rev it as high as I want parked, but if I'm trying to get on it, it bogs down and dies and sometimes backfires.

But, after rebuilding, and paying specific attention to that side of the carb, same symptoms... So, I'm either thinking it may be the actual VSV or something messed up with the timing. Points look OK, changed the cap and rotor, just in case.

Any thoughts?
 
Did you actually take the jets out to clean them or no?

Unless they were verified clean, then rebuilding the carb may have been for naught.

I do have an '87 2F carb that worked great on my motor. You're free to try it if you'd like!
 
Well, after further verification (looking at a second rebuild kit), the new power jet did not go on the power valve... :mad: I thought it was a spare jet...

Would you think no jet, would have the same effect as clogged jet?
 
I would think so, have to take it apart to see.

Super clean is key. Did you blow it out with compressed air?
 
I blew all passages out, and overall it fires up fine. Runs a little rich, and idles lower, but I haven't played with the adjustment screws at all. But, the underlying problem of no power under load is still there after a test drive.

Doing a little research, I'm thinking of bypassing the VSV and just routing the vacumm tubing from the baseplate to the diaphragm and see if it allows the power jet to function under load. Seems it won't affect the distributor function (only emissions), and is eliminated in most desmogs. The PO had removed the air rail and plugged the head bolts, but the vacumn components are still attached to the carb, dizzy, baseplate, and exhaust manifold.

I checked for vacumn leaks when I first started to diagnose the problem, but I'll verify none exist on the rebuild/reattachment.
 
Assuming no vacuum leaks, valves are adjusted and compression is good - I'd hook up a timing light, vacuum gauge and a tach and dial in the carb, timing. Then go out and make seat of the pants adjustments from there.

A cruiser guru named Ed Cook showed me and friend Josh this about 15 years ago and it's been a great way to get all the power their is out of a F or 2F.

Go here: http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/carbinfo.php
 
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