That's so 1999, it's all about organic, cold pressed, unfiltered, raw, vegan, no sodium, no msg, no gluten and fat free! Ok maybe not the fat free part.
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That's so 1999, it's all about organic, cold pressed, unfiltered, raw, vegan, no sodium, no msg, no gluten and fat free! Ok maybe not the fat free part.
Poll is invalid since weight depends on your climate. Eneos here year round. I change weights according to the time of year.
I voted 'other', I made that choice not based on owning that particular model, but more on many years under the bonnet with all marques. Many owners make their decision based on the advertising blurb, others on what their mate uses and of course those who have real world experience.
I have found that once the typical modern car engine has done around 200,000 miles then it will consume a little oil, not necessarily leak on the floor, but via valve seals and less so through the oil control rings. The 80 engine is not the typical car engine, it is a truck engine. It is for want of a better word a slogger, designed for relentless miles with reliability. When it was designed there was an accepted amount oil usage, the environment not highest on the list of things to consider, this along with a limited range of types/grades of oil meant it was a basic oil. The seals years ago were rubber and wore out at relatively low mileage and were renewed without giving it much thought. You will often find an old design engine will use more oil when fed on a diet of synthetic, not just burning but by leaking past crank seals, and gaskets, the synthetic having a 'cleansing' action, this removes carbon and other deposits that accumulate in the engine.
If you have had your engine rebuilt it will invariably have newer seals manufactured using more modern materials, these seals are better at keeping the engine oil tight but there is a drawback, they tend to be harsher on the part of the engine that they are in contact with. When the seal starts to leak, a simple replacement is rarely the answer, the new design seals tend to wear a groove in for example a crank journal, unless the replacement is put in absolutely perfect then the leak will remain or even be worse.
Choose your oil based on your own engine, a vehicle with 100,000 miles may have sat most of it's life at idle in traffic, the engine on the other hand may done way more 'miles'. Consider where you live, cold climate perhaps, your usage, is your 80 a 'second' car, seeing use once a week.....or worse once a month? Putting in thicker oils to combat leaks is traded off in the time it takes for the oil to get to parts that are dry and wearing while waiting for the lube. Also something else, don't wait for the oil light to flash up, use the dipstick, oil is a coolant as well as a lubricant, if you are getting low then the remaining oil is working harder.
Being in the trade I have access to pretty much every kind of oil you wish to mention, my preference is to go a little heavier than the 5/30 recommended by Toyota, with well over 250,000 miles on my (diesel) engine I use a 10/40 semi synthetic. I use a van for work, I live in a warm climate, the car gets used once or twice a week, never sits in traffic, and may be called upon to pop down the road or be loaded to the hilt for a trip up the mountains.
IMO I get the benefit of some of the anti wear/cleansing characteristics of synthetic, but retain enough of the mineral oils to keep an oil tight engine that burns nothing between changes.
A final note to the OP, do not apologise about opening another thread about anything to do with your 80. If you did not bother then there would be no debate or conversation within the forum, it would simply be a place to look for an answer and go fix the problem If everyone takes the 'use the search' attitude then this and all other forums would simply stagnate, and then there would be no need for them once all the questions have been asked and answered, it becomes a simple book of knowledge and besides, where would all the lonely people go when they have nothing else to do?
regards
Dave
I have found that once the typical modern car engine has done around 200,000 miles then it will consume a little oil, not necessarily leak on the floor, but via valve seals and less so through the oil control rings. The 80 engine is not the typical car engine, it is a truck engine. It is for want of a better word a slogger, designed for relentless miles with reliability. When it was designed there was an accepted amount oil usage, the environment not highest on the list of things to consider, this along with a limited range of types/grades of oil meant it was a basic oil. The seals years ago were rubber and wore out at relatively low mileage and were renewed without giving it much thought. You will often find an old design engine will use more oil when fed on a diet of synthetic, not just burning but by leaking past crank seals, and gaskets, the synthetic having a 'cleansing' action, this removes carbon and other deposits that accumulate in the engine.
If you have had your engine rebuilt it will invariably have newer seals manufactured using more modern materials, these seals are better at keeping the engine oil tight but there is a drawback, they tend to be harsher on the part of the engine that they are in contact with. When the seal starts to leak, a simple replacement is rarely the answer, the new design seals tend to wear a groove in for example a crank journal, unless the replacement is put in absolutely perfect then the leak will remain or even be worse.
Choose your oil based on your own engine, a vehicle with 100,000 miles may have sat most of it's life at idle in traffic, the engine on the other hand may done way more 'miles'. Consider where you live, cold climate perhaps, your usage, is your 80 a 'second' car, seeing use once a week.....or worse once a month? Putting in thicker oils to combat leaks is traded off in the time it takes for the oil to get to parts that are dry and wearing while waiting for the lube. Also something else, don't wait for the oil light to flash up, use the dipstick, oil is a coolant as well as a lubricant, if you are getting low then the remaining oil is working harder.
Being in the trade I have access to pretty much every kind of oil you wish to mention, my preference is to go a little heavier than the 5/30 recommended by Toyota, with well over 250,000 miles on my (diesel) engine I use a 10/40 semi synthetic. I use a van for work, I live in a warm climate, the car gets used once or twice a week, never sits in traffic, and may be called upon to pop down the road or be loaded to the hilt for a trip up the mountains.
IMO I get the benefit of some of the anti wear/cleansing characteristics of synthetic, but retain enough of the mineral oils to keep an oil tight engine that burns nothing between changes.
A final note to the OP, do not apologise about opening another thread about anything to do with your 80. If you did not bother then there would be no debate or conversation within the forum, it would simply be a place to look for an answer and go fix the problem If everyone takes the 'use the search' attitude then this and all other forums would simply stagnate, and then there would be no need for them once all the questions have been asked and answered, it becomes a simple book of knowledge and besides, where would all the lonely people go when they have nothing else to do?
regards
Dave
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honestly the truck burns a good portion of the oil every thousand miles so I just run whatever dino oil i can find that has the API certified seal and change it every 3-5k miles. Never had an issue 100k miles into my family's ownership and 200k total
New to Mud? Welcome to the addiction, madness, marriage wrecker, wonderful family. 
Shell Rotella 15W-40 to decrease the oil consumption until new valve seals. I am trying 5W-30 after my valve seal replacement. So far I have gone two gas tanks (380 miles) without any oil use. Absolutely shocking.
Shell Rotella 15W-40 to decrease the oil consumption until new valve seals. I am trying 5W-30 after my valve seal replacement. So far I have gone two gas tanks (380 miles) without any oil use. Absolutely shocking.
My 97 with 250k purrs on this:
Walmart Supertech 10/30 full synthetic 5 quart jug for less than $18. Drop mic...
I use Mobil 1 5w-30 and a toyota filter (small one) but I'd agree with someone else's comment that regular changes with even 7-11 oil is probably fine. But I'm sort of into being a super-dork with my truck at this point and I've used Mobil 1 since I was a kid. Amazon actually sells it cheaper than my local shop.
whale oil, don't tell PETA
has this subject seriously not been hashed out enough?
pengfinn
dead set
No, we're shifting the new oil thread frequency from 'weekly' to 'daily' to keep it in line with bureaucratic standards. Thank you for your patience.
FWIW... I have used M1 10W30 High Mileage for a couple of years now and just recently switched M1 TDT 5W40. I have had high oil consumption + oil leaks (adding about 1 qt every 400 miles or so) when using the M1 10W30 High Mileage. Since switching to M1 TDT 5W40 about 1000 miles ago, I have not added any oil (low engine oil light has not lit up, and yes, I am also checking the oil level). I have lost some oil since switching (due to consumption and leaks), but it is significantly less than when I was using M1 10W30 High Mileage.
here's some light reading for everyone worried about their oil
What weight of oil for 97 with 206k?
What type of oil
What oil are you guys using on your 1FZ-FE?
What motor oil do you use?
What type of oil do u run ?
What is the best motor oil?
Newbie question. What engine oil should I use?
What type of oil to use
What engine oil are you running?
How many quarts of Oil and what kind
Just a poll on what engine oil and weight everybody runs??
What weight of oil for 97 with 206k?
What type of oil
What oil are you guys using on your 1FZ-FE?
What motor oil do you use?
What type of oil do u run ?
What is the best motor oil?
Newbie question. What engine oil should I use?
What type of oil to use
What engine oil are you running?
How many quarts of Oil and what kind
Just a poll on what engine oil and weight everybody runs??
No, there are new oils coming on to the market all the time, they need to be tested and evaluated for use n the Land Cruiser community, got to keep up with current thinking.
regards
Dave
dont forget the Nippon synthetic tranny oil enoes now thats good stuff i like it bettere then dealer probly the dealer supplier you can put it in any lexus or toyota transmmision ANY model! toyota oe coolant fliud auto houze tempe 18.00 a gallon with free shipping thats the aisin pink 4 gallons 1fze they are the oe supplier.
Bobistheoilguy.com
