FZJ80 Oil Choice? (April 2017)

FZJ80 Oil Choice? (April 2017)

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I bought my 80 Series with 215K miles 9 years ago and started using Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Blend 10W-30, which worked just fine. No bad noises or issues. There were some leaks, most of which I fixed. I still have a rear main leak, or oil pan, I can't tell which.
A few years ago I switched over to Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic 10W-30, and the rear main/oil pan leak slowed down to a real trickle, sometimes not at all. The MaxLife Full Synthetic oils are very inexpensive at Wal-Mart or on Amazon, and I am very happy with them. I run the same oil (different viscosity) in my 2015 Toyota Highlander with good results.
I know some have said that switching to synthetic oil exacerbates leaks, but that has not been my experience with the MaxLife on my 80 Series.
Just my two cents, YMMV.
 
MoJ said:
I’ve been using it the last two changes. No issues, no usage. I had hoped to have a Blackstone report to compare to the Castrol GTX 10w30 I’ve always used but USPS lost my sample.
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Well Thts all I needed to know. Gonna do the next oil change with Mobil delvac 1300. Right now I’m using Castrol 10w40 high mileage and it’s using about 1.5 quarts at 3000 miles. So we’ll see the difference
 
Ronaldo9 said:
Well Thts all I needed to know. Gonna do the next oil change with Mobil delvac 1300. Right now I’m using Castrol 10w40 high mileage and it’s using about 1.5 quarts at 3000 miles. So we’ll see the difference
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Lot’s of other factors there. I’ve never really had an oil usage issue. Maybe 1/2 quart between changes which is within spec. I’ve noticed zero after switching but it’s not an exact science of course.
 
i'll probably get some comments but here goes.

I purchased my 80 new in 95. upon the warranty expiring I started using Penrite 30 (20w60 mineral) and still use it to this day. When the HG went at 480k the bores looked like new, cross hatching was very evident and could not feel any difference where the piston stroke tops out on the bore, cams & bearing cups showed absoloutely no signs of wear and the timing chain assembly & slipper guides from what I could see was in excellent condition as well.
The only oil loss / consumption was due to the valve stem seals being worn. Usage was about 1lt between oil changes. Oil pressure is great, motor does not make any odd sounds and runs like a dream. ive also had the lower pan off once just to have a look and no sludge whatsoever
When under warranty, Toyota would use their branded oil which was 20w50 Castrol and having used Penrite in my other car & bikes was always happy with it so switched when I started doing it myself.

Its now at 520000 odd kms and I will continue to use it as its served extremely well plus use it in my Harley & XR400 trailbike. I change oil & filter every 6mths or 10k (whichever comes 1st) and i reckon it could go longer but as they say, cheaper to change oil than engine :)

Rob
 
MoJ said:
Lot’s of other factors there. I’ve never really had an oil usage issue. Maybe 1/2 quart between changes which is within spec. I’ve noticed zero after switching but it’s not an exact science of course.
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Thx for the info. She is getting close to 300 thousand miles still with original head gasket she’s also been pushing 40 in tires for a year now. So it’s worth a try and see if I see any difference.
 
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I am of the flush it school, but never with flushing oil. I use the same procedure on my 80 every time I change the oil. I collect 10 litres of engine oil from odds and ends that customers don't want generally 5/30 or 5/ 40. I then get two oil filters, with the engine warm I drain the oil and fit a new filter and refill with the 5/30 or 5/40 and run the engine for around 10 - 15 minutes. Drain the oil and fit a second new filter, and refill with 10/40 mineral oil, and call it done. The oil on the dipstick is so clean you can hardly see it on the dipstick, it will take around 3,000 miles before it starts to get dark, this blows the myth that all diesel engine oil is black even after changing it.

As a note, my 80 has an oil pressure light/buzzer and after the last oil change I had driven in into town and on the way back the light came along with the buzzer sounding, I have an adjustable oil pressure switch set at 20psi, I shut down the engine immediately and jumped out thinking I had not tightened the oil filter properly, or the sump plug, looking behind the car there was no trail if oil, and nothing under the vehicle. I was just a hundred yards from home and started the engine, with fast idle the eoil light went out and the gauge showed pressure.

I fitted a master oil pressure gauge and can confirm I had lost around 10 psi in pressure! I checked the containers and they were my usual 10/40 mineral oil, and then I noticed something else, in the lower corner of the bottle was a note. 'New synthetic blend'. So for a FACT, the synthetic blend DOES lower you oil pressure, not enough to harm the engine (well not immediately at least), but just something to look out for. It will not be long before the 10/40 synthetic is all we have for our diesel cruisers.

I only use 15/40 mineral in my old Opel van, I could use the 15/40 mineral in the 80 given the warm temperatures here however, they are 'no name' brand so I am reluctant to do that.

Regards

Dave
 
For those of you using Rotella T 15/40 in your gas 80 do you use a regular oil filter or do you use a special filter for the diesel oil being used?
 
I use Valvoline High Mileage Synthetic Blend 5W-30. Works perfect. The lower viscosity reduces internal engine friction, improving acceleration and fuel economy. Oil pressure has not been affected. I suspect the lower friction from the lower viscosity is reducing waste heat from the lower friction.

Toyota is using the lower viscosity synthetic and synthetic blend oils at the factory to fill the engine.

ToyotaWeapon
 
Tools R Us said:
Khrist on a Krutch.

Oil, they like it, get some,,, whatever is on sale? :hillbilly:
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Boom good answer.

If it’s ck-4 rated and API/SAE certified it really doesn’t matter anymore. Certified oils need to meet or exceed those ratings. Of course you wil pay more for the extras in top brands like Exxon Mobile but for older engines it’s been like 14 certified oil iterations. See this site for info.

Add some Lucas to it and let it rip.
 
DIRTBIKEUSA said:
Boom good answer.

If it’s ck-4 rated and API/SAE certified it really doesn’t matter anymore. Certified oils need to meet or exceed those ratings. Of course you wil pay more for the extras in top brands like Exxon Mobile but for older engines it’s been like 14 certified oil iterations. See this site for info.

Add some Lucas to it and let it rip.
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Actually the correct API rating for gas burners with a Cat is SN which many DEO’s on the market are now rated. CK4 is a diesel engine API rating.
 

Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck Full Synthetic 5W40​

When I bought my '94 FZJ80, it came filled with 10W-30 as per oil change sticker, and was leaking from oil pump, valve cover, and somewhere in the rear of the engine, possibly rear main seal. There were a few drip spots on the floor and you could smell burnt oil after a long drive. Shorty after, I changed the oil and went with Rotella T4 15W40 (as recommended by some on mud). The drips on the floor became smaller, but I could still smell burning oil after long drives and had to add a couple of quarts after 1500 miles of driving. After reading several oil threads on mud, I decided to try Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck synthetic for the most recent oil change in December, and after approx. 1,000 miles I am happy to report that all oil drips on the floor are gone and there is no longer a noticeable burnt oil smell. Oil level dead on half between L and F (I filled it to about 3/4 of crosshatched area) and undercarriage is noticeably drier than it used to be. Pretty amazing results as far as oil leaks go and I hope there are no serious downsides to using this oil. Anyone else has a similar experience?
 
Anyone try valvoline restore and protect? Seems to help clean the build-up from the videos I've watched.
 
I use Valvoline Maxlife 10W-30 high mileage full synthetic. Good stuff in my opinion.
 
I use Dawn and any motor oil on sale, 10% soap and 90% oil. Cheaper soap works, but increase to 15/85.
 
Switched from Mobil 1 10W-40 to Chevron XSP 400 15W-40 Full Synthetic (approved for diesels and gasoline engines) and the oil consumption (no leaks) dropped from one quart in ~1400 miles to one quart in ~1800 miles. Earlier had tried Mobil 10W-30, then Mobil 1 0W-40 (oil consumption went way up), then Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck, ditto, still increased oil consumption.

Chevron's marketing info states the XSP 400 15W-40 was developed to decrease oil consumption and it seems to do that to some degree, at least in this particular 1FZFE that needs valve stem seals.
 
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Oil will not make old seals new but depending on the viscosity/polymers in the oil it may be less likely to seep past the old seals. As mentioned above the oil consumption in one of my 80's went down ~25% just with the change of the oil brand/viscosity (Chevron Delo 400 XSP 15W-40). This has been shown by others on the forum who switched for example to either of the Rotella 15W-40 oils from lighter viscosity oil. Of course at some point the valve stem seals will need to be replaced.
 
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