FZJ80 5 Spoke Wheel Differences (1 Viewer)

[Jaysjammin]

If someone could point me to an existing thread, that would be great but I looked through a few wheel threads and wasn't able to find any kind of definitive answer.

The LX wheels are different because they are split but I am unable to see the difference between the base model 5 spokes, the Collector's Edition and the 40th Edition wheels. Are they the same wheels, just different colors or are they actually different?

I found different part numbers but I'm not sure which one is which: ALY69314U vs ALY69314A

 

[Jaysjammin]

Is the question really dumb or does no one know?

 

[scottryana]

All the same wheel, the Lexus wheel just have a little machining on the face of the spoke to look different.

LX450

Collectors

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Early FZJ80's had acorn / bulge lug nut seats, while later vehicles had shank / mag style. No other visible differences I am aware of though.

Jason

 

[Jaysjammin]

All the same wheel, the Lexus wheel just have a little machining on the face of the spoke to look different.

LX450

Collectors

Early FZJ80's had acorn / bulge lug nut seats, while later vehicles had shank / mag style. No other visible differences I am aware of though.

Jason

Awesome! Thanks fellas!

It's no wonder I couldn't find anything. The part numbers are likely just different based on the lug nut type.

 

[LINUS]

As old as these are now, I’d pop a lugnut off all 4 corners, make sure the 4 rolling & the spare are all of 1 shank/acorn -style or the other.

Esp if you have something like LX450 wheels or the darker inset color grey “D”s (CE & 40th AE) - on say a ‘94 FZJ80.

Mixed sets are begging to be a problem somewhere in life - like when the tire jockey with the rattle-gun zips down 6 shanks on a acorn wheel seat, etc.

I say that as baselining isn’t just doing fluids, birf service, etc, etc - looking & finding all the hodge-podge stuff like janky wiring or mis-mash of wheels & really putting a critical eye to all is something alot never say but we should when we use the term ‘baseline the 80’.

Just a pointer since I’m guessing you registered after buying or just prior to nailing down what you did buy, yeah?

A sig line with your model yr - speeds up answers too w/o someone feeding you info specific to a wrong gen / year of motor, etc.

HTH

 

[Jaysjammin]

As old as these are now, I’d pop a lugnut off all 4 corners, make sure the 4 rolling & the spare are all of 1 shank/acorn -style or the other.

Esp if you have something like LX450 wheels or the darker inset color grey “D”s (CE & 40th AE) - on say a ‘94 FZJ80.

Mixed sets are begging to be a problem somewhere in life - like when the tire jockey with the rattle-gun zips down 6 shanks on a acorn wheel seat, etc.

I say that as baselining isn’t just doing fluids, birf service, etc, etc - looking & finding all the hodge-podge stuff like janky wiring or mis-mash of wheels & really putting a critical eye to all is something alot never say but we should when we use the term ‘baseline the 80’.

Just a pointer since I’m guessing you registered after buying or just prior to nailing down what you did buy, yeah?

A sig line with your model yr - speeds up answers too w/o someone feeding you info specific to a wrong gen / year of motor, etc.

HTH

I definitely agree, I plan to touch as many bolts as possible. I'm currently looking into electrolysis for very minor rust removal and powder coating to clean up whatever I remove and don't replace.

It goes against the advice of every thread I've found on mud but I just bought a 97 LC 3x in pretty rough shape but no rust and I got it for cheaper than most open diff models. Needs a lot of work but I was planning on it any way. Lockers work, shifts fine, idles a little rough. Paint on hood and roof is faded. Dented rocker panel and tail light area where a grill was likely ripped off.

It's my 3rd truck so I bought it and parked it, been ordering parts and checking part-outs ever since. The first owner sold it in 07 to their mechanic once the head gasket blew. Second owner replaced the head gasket in 07, drove it for 3 years and it hasn't been registered since. It's been off-road only for the last 10 years. From what I can see, that might have been the last time it was properly maintained; you know the saying about mechanics' personal vehicles.

Drove it an hour and half home and every minute of it was terrifying. Tires look 10 years old(I haven't checked the dates yet). Gets up to speed okay but it needs the entire suspension/bushings redone. There were times where I couldn't turn at speed without the truck shaking and trying to shimmy off of the road. Stopped for gas and it's missing 4 lug nuts. I plan to add new studs and nuts all around. Started getting dark on my way home and I could not see anything even with the high beams on.

Terrible looking custom bumper with a cross member welded on about a foot in front of the OEM cross member. 3 inch body lift and stock suspension. No rear bumper. Driver's seat bottom is ripped, won't move back and forth, trim is faded, missing driver's side visor, compressor and/or lines have a leak, antenna is broken. All of these will be taken care of; given my schedule, it'll likely take me at least a year to get it to a good place.

I know this sounds insane but I knew most of those things before I bought it, I just like maintenance

not sure if this buy makes me a good mud member or a terrible one.

 

[clx16]

I am sure it will be a fine build. Do a really good cleaning so you can continue your inventory of what needs done. The better your list, the less times you take the same things off for the various repairs etc.

Remove everything you don't want there just to get things out of the way so you feel accomplished ha.

I found lots of things were just let go and easy to fix with out replacing things. Seats once out i was able to fix the nylon caps and make them work again, many bolts were not right and things rattled due to lazy or deaf previous owner. Brakes should not have been let go as long as they had been and those were all easy fixes. Hopefully you find a few easy fixes along the way

 

[Jaysjammin]

I am sure it will be a fine build. Do a really good cleaning so you can continue your inventory of what needs done. The better your list, the less times you take the same things off for the various repairs etc.

Remove everything you don't want there just to get things out of the way so you feel accomplished ha.

I found lots of things were just let go and easy to fix with out replacing things. Seats once out i was able to fix the nylon caps and make them work again, many bolts were not right and things rattled due to lazy or deaf previous owner. Brakes should not have been let go as long as they had been and those were all easy fixes. Hopefully you find a few easy fixes along the way

Absolutely! My life is a mess but my builds/repairs are pretty well planned out. Big fan of white boards and oddly specific tools. I'm currently thinking about a double oven conversion, sand blaster(s) and plastic barrel(for electrolysis). I'll know more once I actually wash the thing and figure out what I'm replacing or refurbishing.

I'm finishing up the last thing on my Tacoma which is the valve cover gasket and I'm replacing at least 12 different items while I'm in there. Nice long list of OEM part numbers and torque specs.

Mud is an amazing resource. Loved Tacomaworld but FJcruiserforums was so bad, I considered selling my truck. So I'm spending my time going through threads for door lock actuators, windows, brakes, seat gears, speakers, clutch fan, tire size/regear, phh, faqs and the ever present dead links/"did you try search"/"can I fit 40s with no lift?"

I'm just starting the collecting missing parts and baseline research phase. It's my first SA truck so I'm still learning the components and how they interact.

Starting with restoring the engine hoses/gaskets/fluids/filters and driveline flush/re-grease then removing the body lift(crossing my fingers that it isn't a hackjob) and replacing or rebuilding suspension/bushings/birfs/brakes/tie rods/steering. Then I'll figure out cosmetics, electrical issues, AC and wheel/tire.

 

[clx16]

I sold my taco last year. Was and still is a great truck, but once i worked on a SA i knew i was tired if working on IFS vehicles. So bought a 79 pickup and the work has been easy. But the gf bought a 100 series and then i was back at ball joints and tre and then had to put in new cv joints...

 

[Jaysjammin]

I sold my taco last year. Was and still is a great truck, but once i worked on a SA i knew i was tired if working on IFS vehicles. So bought a 79 pickup and the work has been easy. But the gf bought a 100 series and then i was back at ball joints and tre and then had to put in new cv joints...

My Taco taught me how to work on cars. Pretty much everything has been done but I can't bring myself to spend $200-300 on OEM weather stripping for the doors. 360k miles, drives like new if not better.

A little jealous of your '79 though. I'm slowly working my way backwards, I was cross shopping between 80s and 60s but it's hard to find a non rusted 60 for a decent price.

Convinced my dad to buy a relatively low mile 02 LX. One of the heater T's fell apart whenever I went to remove it so definitely replace those and the hoses if you haven't already. I put a few spares in the glove box. By far the most stout and comfortable vehicle in the family.

This thing came in clutch: Flexible Hose Clamp

 

[clx16]

oh yeah the hose clamp tool is a must. I changed both heater Ts on her sequoia and the heater valve and I have the AISIN timing belt/waterpump kit sitting next to her cruiser so that is next along with heater Ts and some vapor canister lines and a few fuel line segments. I run ethanol free gas but the previous owner didn't so it ate up a few things.

You will find people freak out over doing the solid axle service on these things. It is messy or can be, but i find it a lot easier than doing IFS work. I am sure others disagree with me on that, but not everyone can be right.

 

[Jaysjammin]

oh yeah the hose clamp tool is a must. I changed both heater Ts on her sequoia and the heater valve and I have the AISIN timing belt/waterpump kit sitting next to her cruiser so that is next along with heater Ts and some vapor canister lines and a few fuel line segments. I run ethanol free gas but the previous owner didn't so it ate up a few things.

You will find people freak out over doing the solid axle service no these things. It is messy or can be, but i find it a lot easier than doing IFS work. I am sure others disagree with me on that, but not everyone can be right.

Nice! The LX already had TB/WP done alongside some other parts but I'll put vapor canister and fuel lines on the list. Once a car gets old or high mileage enough, I just start throwing parts at it. I like old trucks, but I don't want it to drive like an old truck.

Consensus seems to be that it's a bear of a job but it seems more messy than anything else. I'm sure it's easier than removing the front diff or steering rack from newer IFS trucks. I've only worked on IFS till this point so as long as I have the right tools, I can knock it all out pretty quick.

Any tool/cleaning recommendations for working on SA?

 

[clx16]

two 5 gallon buckets full with diesel or gas for cleaning (leave them outside) Dollar tree spatulas for getting grease out, turkey pans or plastic oil pans from dollar tree. i used my tierode end separator tool and you need a wheel bearing nut socket, brass drift for getting cone washers out. Snap ring pliers (the kind with flat surfaces on the outside are nice to have, no other special tools needed. metric sockets and wrenches along with a torque wrench are just standard. you can get faster with cordless impact tools, but not necessary. on my mini truck to get the trunion bearings out i made a tool with a sleeve, two or three nuts and a threaded rod to push the bearings out from inside...

tools that make it easier are the seal driving tool from Wits End, adding nut huggers to the for bolts on the bottom is nice for security after the fact but no necessary. he has a few things on his site that can make the job easier and the tools are reusable if you plan to do it again. I was pretty annoyed at how long i waited listening to how bad it was, once i got one side done i wished i would have done it sooner.

cleaning the cv joints is the hardest but if you take them apart that speeds things up a good bit. If you clean, paint and then put back together you add time to the project but sometimes you just need to.

 

[Jaysjammin]

two 5 gallon buckets full with diesel or gas for cleaning (leave them outside) Dollar tree spatulas for getting grease out, turkey pans or plastic oil pans from dollar tree. i used my tierode end separator tool and you need a wheel bearing nut socket, brass drift for getting cone washers out. Snap ring pliers (the kind with flat surfaces on the outside are nice to have, no other special tools needed. metric sockets and wrenches along with a torque wrench are just standard. you can get faster with cordless impact tools, but not necessary. on my mini truck to get the trunion bearings out i made a tool with a sleeve, two or three nuts and a threaded rod to push the bearings out from inside...

tools that make it easier are the seal driving tool from Wits End, adding nut huggers to the for bolts on the bottom is nice for security after the fact but no necessary. he has a few things on his site that can make the job easier and the tools are reusable if you plan to do it again. I was pretty annoyed at how long i waited listening to how bad it was, once i got one side done i wished i would have done it sooner.

cleaning the cv joints is the hardest but if you take them apart that speeds things up a good bit. If you clean, paint and then put back together you add time to the project but sometimes you just need to.

Thanks man! That's a solid list. I've got most of those things but I'm a sucker for new tools.

I'll look into the trunion bearings so I have a better idea of the tool you made. You're the second person to recommend wit's end tools so I'll definitely see what all they have to offer.

It's a labor of love, so I'll be rebuilding/repainting quite a few parts while I'm in there. I try to build budget versions of Jonathan Ward's trucks(Icon).

 

[clx16]

YOu won't need to make a tool for for the trunion bearings. on my 80 they just came right off, although one was already in extra pieces, but the minitruck had moisture issues...

 

[Jaysjammin]

Fair enough. Guess I'll figure it out once I start taking stuff apart.

Wits end is one expensive rabbit hole. Nice to see all of the kits. May have to celebrate with the $1k bushing kit whenever I finish this truck

 

[pokerDawg]

I recently discovered the difference in these wheels with acorn lugs vs flat/washer.

Anyone have a link to generic acorn style lug nuts that will fit the 80 via Amazon? I can't afford 24 times $7 a lug nut.

Update:


Ordered these based on another thread:

Amazon product ASIN B0194963K8