Had a little bit of fun over the weekend. not great pics but you get the idea! If only I had the $$$ to get new shocks I could have kept the tire on the rock!
fyi-stock shocks limit flex on SOA
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Looks great! How much did you spend on the parts to do your SOA? Im going to do a SOA this winter on my 83 fj60. Where did you get the parts to do it?
Thanks
Thanks
Lookin good. Can't wait to do the SOA on my rig.
It seems that everyone that does SOA is required to do a write-up and I'll agree with them as well until I get mine done. 
I'm just as curious:
Rough Cost?
Which brand Hy-Steer kit? (if any.)
Any other details / struggles?
I'm just as curious:Rough Cost?
Which brand Hy-Steer kit? (if any.)
Any other details / struggles?
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- #7
Good! some tech.
The reason I haven't done a write up is that I did it the cheap and dirty way. It is not where I want it to be yet and I haven't done everything that I should. That being said...
You are correct. I just used new spring perches and new U-bolts and stock plates and leaf pack. I did not do a C&T but probably need to. I made some ghetto brake lines (stainless braided on order now) and I used the stock shocks. also anti-sway bar. The hi-steer kit is from AllPro Offroad (~$500). And it works beautifully.
All said and done I spent $800 on parts ($500 was the hi-steer kit) plus $200 on some cheap used 35's (since upgraded to some nice MTZ meats)
Like I said, its not how I wanted to do it but I didnt have the money at the time to do it the way I wanted. I just wanted to get out and wheel. I am slowly piecing things together and getting them the way I want.
All in all I love the way it handles and rides and wheels. It has been great. The only thing (besides the things already mentioned) I wish I would have done is figured out a extended detachable sway bar solution (probably will eventually). There is alot of body lean around town, I just have to take it easy (which one should in this type of rig anyways)
The reason I haven't done a write up is that I did it the cheap and dirty way. It is not where I want it to be yet and I haven't done everything that I should. That being said...
You are correct. I just used new spring perches and new U-bolts and stock plates and leaf pack. I did not do a C&T but probably need to. I made some ghetto brake lines (stainless braided on order now) and I used the stock shocks. also anti-sway bar. The hi-steer kit is from AllPro Offroad (~$500). And it works beautifully.
All said and done I spent $800 on parts ($500 was the hi-steer kit) plus $200 on some cheap used 35's (since upgraded to some nice MTZ meats)
Like I said, its not how I wanted to do it but I didnt have the money at the time to do it the way I wanted. I just wanted to get out and wheel. I am slowly piecing things together and getting them the way I want.
All in all I love the way it handles and rides and wheels. It has been great. The only thing (besides the things already mentioned) I wish I would have done is figured out a extended detachable sway bar solution (probably will eventually). There is alot of body lean around town, I just have to take it easy (which one should in this type of rig anyways)
Just curious, but I was told once that with a 62 the pinion angle is a little different and you don't really have to c/t. I saw you mentioned that you may have to c/t, what was the side effects of not doing it? I'm curious because i'm thinking about doing an soa lift to my 60 with 62 axles since they have the 4.11s already, front and rear sway bars, and was told they would bolt up and work ok.
The cut and turn allows the outside parts to stay level with the steering (caster) and the inside tube (pumpkin / differential) to point at the correct pinion angle up to the transfer case. If you did not cut and turn then you would add shims to the axle and steering caster angle would be good but the pinion angle would be really bad and cause your front driveshaft to bind. Like everyone says, if you're already going to be notching the crossmember, trimming and welding perches... why not go 100% and do the cut and turn?
That's how I see it right now, I've been researching SOA for about a month and that's where I'm at. Total cost without tires or new gears looks to be about $1000. After tires and regearing and lockers it's closer to 3 to 4 grand.
That's how I see it right now, I've been researching SOA for about a month and that's where I'm at. Total cost without tires or new gears looks to be about $1000. After tires and regearing and lockers it's closer to 3 to 4 grand.
I have angled my front diff up towards my transfer case 10 degrees and then cut and rotated my knuckles 14 degrees the other way to give my total wheel alignment 4 degrees of caster. This greatly helps on high speed stops and general driving. Standard toyota wheel alignment is 0 degree caster for a 60 series but for an 80 series this was improved to 3 degrees. Just improving on standard!!!!!!!!!!!!
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- #11
I heard that too and mine drives fine right now but what the other two said is right. My driveshaft is long enough in most situations but it does rub a little sometimes in 4 wheel drive
shocks
All in all I love the way it handles and rides and wheels. It has been great. The only thing (besides the things already mentioned) I wish I would have done is figured out a extended detachable sway bar solution (probably will eventually). There is alot of body lean around town, I just have to take it easy (which one should in this type of rig anyways)[/quote]
I ran mine without shocks for a week or two checking angles before I welded everything solid. after installing some beilsteins, she drives awesome. Still a little roll but nothing that has made me nervous.
All in all I love the way it handles and rides and wheels. It has been great. The only thing (besides the things already mentioned) I wish I would have done is figured out a extended detachable sway bar solution (probably will eventually). There is alot of body lean around town, I just have to take it easy (which one should in this type of rig anyways)[/quote]
I ran mine without shocks for a week or two checking angles before I welded everything solid. after installing some beilsteins, she drives awesome. Still a little roll but nothing that has made me nervous.
Q: The cut and turn allows the outside parts to stay level with the steering (caster) and the inside tube (pumpkin / differential) to point at the correct pinion angle up to the transfer case. If you did not cut and turn then you would add shims to the axle and steering caster angle would be good but the pinion angle would be really bad and cause your front driveshaft to bind. Like everyone says, if you're already going to be notching the crossmember, trimming and welding perches... why not go 100% and do the cut and turn?
cut and turn is overrated.
i did my the same way, used the stock u-bolt plates for my perches up front.
used a rear 85' mini drive shaft cut down for the front.
no problems and i've never had the front d-shaft come apart in full flex/drop.
drives straight and it does not put any extra wear on the front tires.
i've never hit my pinion.
pointing the pinion up will change your driveshafts need to spin correctly.
i wish i knew this before i pointed my rear pinion up. (i've had vibs in the back from the start.
.02
cut and turn is overrated.
i did my the same way, used the stock u-bolt plates for my perches up front.
used a rear 85' mini drive shaft cut down for the front.
no problems and i've never had the front d-shaft come apart in full flex/drop.
drives straight and it does not put any extra wear on the front tires.
i've never hit my pinion.
pointing the pinion up will change your driveshafts need to spin correctly.
i wish i knew this before i pointed my rear pinion up. (i've had vibs in the back from the start.
.02
