fussing and fighting with electrical after fusible link replacement

[swelltimes]

Annnnnnd, we're back here again.

After I cleaned up the battery terminals, truck was starting fine, and I even ran it a few houses down the road to check in on an FJ-60 I sold to some neighbors.

Bought myself a new timing light with digital tach, and was all excited to work on tuning the carb. Had the step on the gas pedal for a few min. to help me check the accelerator pump. Went for a float in the river, came back, started the truck once, then BAM, back to electrical issues (I think).

Same symptoms as before, but a couple more clicks from the starter before turning the key did nothing.

Ran through all of the same checks / tests as before, with the same results (except battery terminals are clean).

Where do I head, now?

 

[Coolerman]

Wow, quite the grumpy truck you have there!
Yes, make SURE you replace those fuses with the correct ones!

This time it sounds like either the battery is low ( starter clicks then nothing) or the key switch needs cleaning, possibly even replaced.

Charge the battery again then try it. If you get just clicks from the starter you may also have a starter that needs cleaning or replacing.

 

[swelltimes]

Wow, quite the grumpy truck you have there!
Yes, make SURE you replace those fuses with the correct ones!

This time it sounds like either the battery is low ( starter clicks then nothing) or the key switch needs cleaning, possibly even replaced.

Charge the battery again then try it. If you get just clicks from the starter you may also have a starter that needs cleaning or replacing.

She's being grumpy, for sure!

I'll charge the battery again when I get home from work, replace those fuses, and clean the key switch. I replaced the starter with a new, gear reduction unit a few years ago, but I'll pull that and clean it if needed. I read over some starter-specific tests in the FSM last night, so I'll try those first, as needed.

Thanks for the suggestions, @Coolerman.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

In trouble shooting, I'm surprised no one mentioned an upgrade for the battery cable terminals, to a set of positive and negative military battery terminals. You would also have to add cable ends, but you'd be better off overall.

 

[AutaviaFJ40]

In trouble shooting, I'm surprised no one mentioned an upgrade for the battery cable terminals,

looking back at the first images...yes, those terminals look like they have been thru a few wars. Id start with cleaning up that mess and getting some decent cables installed. I can highly recommend @Fourrunner ...his cables are very nice.

 

[swelltimes]

For sure, the terminal are beat up, but they're most likely not the issue right now. Thanks for the tip about @Fourrunner's cable kits- I'll add that to my list of replacement parts as my budget allows.

I've got the charger on the battery now, and will try to clean the switch this evening.

 

[swelltimes]

Battery fully charged, fuses changed to the OEM recommended values (I tested all fuses b/f installation).

Ran a jumper from the small terminal on the starter to the + batt terminal, and solenoid engaged, both with key off, and key in "run" position.

Just pulled the key cylinder from the ignition switch, and the whole switch and associated wiring pigtail from the truck. Soldered connections on the switch itself look good, so I guess I'll try to take the cover off, flush with contact cleaner, let dry, and go from there.

 

[swelltimes]

I don't know if these pics will be helpful or not, but this is what I found when I opened the ignition switch up this evening. Everything looked pretty clean, and well lubricated with some sort of brown goop.

 

[swelltimes]

What's the best approach for cleaning that switch? Flush with some contact cleaner, let dry, then re-lube with dielectric grease?

 

[swelltimes]

Still no resolution to the non-starting / no lights issues as of this afternoon.

Here's what I've done (battery is fully charged):

• Removed the ignition switch and associated pigtail; disassembled the switch, cleaned the contact points with steel wool / emory cloth, flushed with contact cleaner, let dry, lubed with dielectric grease, reassembled, and reinstalled. I also cleaned and lubed the 4-prong plug at the other end of that pigtail.
• Pulled the gauge cluster out, cleaned the posts for the ammeter. Installed a new ring connector to replace one that was corroded, after cleaning up the wire. Shrink-wrapped that connection, and put new electrical tape on the other wire leading to the ammeter, after cleaning that ring connector. Good voltage at the connections before I reinstalled, and testing ammeter shows good continuity and low resistance (~.7 ohms, I believe).
• Starter: have jumped the starter, both at the pronged connection for the solenoid, and then from the + battery terminal to the + terminal on the starer. The solenoid clicks in the first test, and the starter turns the engine over on the second test.

What am I missing at this point?

What other tests / checks can I do, before I start peeling back the tape on the wiring loom and looking for broken connections and shorts?

 

[swelltimes]

Another data point: with ignition off (lights still not working), the horn makes the saddest, weak little sound.

 

[swelltimes]

I'll try using another battery in the truck later today, and see if that makes a difference. I don't think it will, but I'm hitting a wall here.

 

[Marn0]

I'd almost bet that the new fusable link you installed has something to do with it. Maybe the wires were not properly stripped and may be crimped on the insulation??
Try completely bypassing the fusable link

 

[swelltimes]

I'd almost bet that the new fusable link you installed has something to do with it. Maybe the wires were not properly stripped and may be crimped on the insulation??
Try completely bypassing the fusable link

I've done that a couple of times thru the process, and no change.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Damn, I'm frustrated just reading about your troubles. Hope you or somebody comes up with an idea soon. Good luck man!

 

[swelltimes]

Damn, I'm frustrated just reading about your troubles. Hope you or somebody comes up with an idea soon. Good luck man!

Thanks, Ron. It's frustrating for sure, especially as the summer is flying by here and I've yet to get out in the truck! But, I'm learning a lot, and hopefully doing some fixes / maintenance on things that need it, and that I won't have to deal with again in the near future.

I'm sure my inexperience with electrical stuff is a big part of it. Hoping to futz around a bit more this evening.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I recall contributing to this endeavor early on, but a lot has been suggested and tried thus far.

I’ve reread thru this thread, but would like to fully understand the current symptoms.

In post #29, you said, "I have tried jumping the new fusible link from the battery to the harness, to the extent that I reinstalled the original piece of wiring that I removed: the same symptoms of non-starting persisted.".

What does this mean? If you jump over the fusible link, do you see the same result as you do with the fusible link in play? e.g. "Nothing", or does the starter click? Do the headlights work? You mentioned a "sad, weak" horn somewhere.

In post #36, you said, "When I was testing, I left the ignition key on while I was checking voltages, and the + battery terminal was getting hot pretty quickly: is this normal?".

Battery terminals should NOT get hot... that may indicate a short or bad grounds and you could be in danger of melting your harness.

In post #36, you cleaned terminals, etc. and it started working... Now it doesn't work, again.

I still feel you have a problem in your fusible link circuit (poor connections), from battery+ to PS fender apron harness.

But, I'm also concerned, due to battery terminals getting hot, that you have a short somewhere.

The fact that, it was working briefly and now isn't working seems to reinforce the idea of bad connections... any bouncing may cause a disconnect.

A lot about the wiring is fairly straightforward, but if one is not careful, it's easy to destroy your harness and other electrical components.

The large white and white/blue wires play in the alternator-battery-ammeter circuit.

If you remove your gauge cluster without disconnecting the battery, you chance melting those wires and causing a lot of electrical damage.

If those wires are shorted, you chance more damage to your harness.

Any shorts, absent the correct fuses and a functioning fusible link, you chance burning your truck to the ground.

I'm just saying, be careful.

I know just how frustrating electric issues can be... Even a minor tweak can cause major issues and confusing results, for those of us who are not electrical experts.

Please restate your current symptoms.

New pictures, showing the battery/fusible link connections might help, as well.

Maybe if we start over, from a known position again, we can work thru this... It may require you repeating certain troubleshooting...

Edit: I would first peel back the wire wrap and tape, from the harness, where the fusible link pigtail enters the harness... To see if there is an issue with the white/blue wire, at that point.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[Marn0]

Does it have a main relay in it somewhere or a second fuseable link like the bj40 does? possible bad contacts in the relay?

 

[Marn0]

looking at the wiring diagram power is fed through the fuseable link then on through the ammeter. Check these connections.
That appears to be all that is in the circuit before it splits to the key and the headlight/horn fuse. Check for power at the ignition switch. If nothing there then it has to be the link or the ammeter..
Im not sure what happens when the ammeters fail. Maybe they go open circuit.
Check for voltage at back of ammeter
good luck