Fusible Link Question. Need to get rid of my HOT WIRING set-up

[roncruiser]

I posted earlier about a bad alarm. My bad… the alarm works fine.
It wasn’t powered properly. That’s when I started to snoop around.

To make a long story shorter, I started snooping around using an ohm meter. I then found out there was no power going to the Ignition Switch. Power SHOULD be constant from a W-R wire which runs directly from the battery to the Ignition Switch. According to the EWD, the only thing in between those two points is what the EWD calls a gray Fusible Link. I detected an open between the battery and the connector at which the W-R
wire ends at the ignition harness.

To confirm my finding. I bypassed the W-R wire and jumped directly from the battery to the connector at the Ignition Key Harness. I put a 20 amp fuse in series to be safe. The vehicle started right up! Right now, I am driving around with my car Hot-Wired like this.
Though, I see no difference between my set-up and the wiring I just bypassed. The only thing I don’t know is the correct amp rating for the fuse I used.

There IS a gray connector which comes immediately off the battery. I think this is the Fusible Link the EWD notes but I pulled it apart, but found no fuse inside.

-Is this “Fusible Link” some type of weird fuse where the whole component needs to be replaced?

-Am I even looking at the right thing?

-What proper fuse rating should I be using in my bypass wiring?

 

[JoeMerc]

The Fusible link is exactly that, a weird type of fuse. They are quickly becoming obsolete because cartridge type fuses have become more reliable. Fusible links have traditionally been used in high current situations (>30 Amps), so you should be more than safe using a 20 A fuse.

 

[roncruiser]

Thanks for the Info. Just read that same thing a few minutes ago.

Still don’t know where the Fusible Link is. Just checked continuity across the gray connector. It’s good. I thought it was the Fusible link.

Where is that thing?

 

[sea2skydad]

The gray connector at the battery is the fusible link. There is no fuse as you describe; the wire is the fuse and will fry if the need arises. Then you fix the problem and replace the gray connector - they're relatively cheap. An inline fuse in place of the OEM setup will work as well, I used a 20 amp for a week before I got my replacement. HTH, Greg.

 

[roncruiser]

I checked continuity across that gray connector/fusible link. Continuity is good. The fuse/wire within the weird connector is still good.

This leads me to believe that the connection at a connector is not good, or there is a break in the wire somewhere. I'll have to do more work with the ohm meter. Been trying to check things during work hours. Today was way too busy to get anything done with the LC.

 

[RavenTai]

The fusible link is not in the connector, the wire leading from the battery post to the gray connector is the fusible link, it is a special undersized wire that melts easily when to much current is passed,

One of mine has cracked insulation from to tight of a turn as is goes into the black connector, picked up the whole set of 3 fusible links in one assembly from Dan for less than $10, if it ever gives me any trouble I'll swap in the new one,

Everybody should have a spare set of them they are cheap and I doubt you will find one at a parts store, dealers if they have are only open during business hours. Leading you to a less than ideal repair.

 

[roncruiser]

Ahhh... ! Thanks man. The wire is rather short, correct? Short length and right to the gray connector. What I'm trying to say is the connector is almost right at the positive battery post, right?

 

[sandcruiser]

An alternative is to buy one of the big 'ol spade type fuses (several US automakers use them) and attach it via 2 spade connectors. Easy to replace... but then, it isn't really something you should need to replace very often

 

[RavenTai]

Ahhh... ! Thanks man. The wire is rather short, correct? Short length and right to the gray connector. What I'm trying to say is the connector is almost right at the positive battery post, right?

yes. you got it. they are quite short, maybe 3 inches? they lead right from the terminal bolted to the positive post of the battery to the connectors just ourside of the battery box, they are partially covered by a fiberous sheath I assume for chafe protection where they pass through the battery box gromet, two of them, one black, one blue lead to a black junction box, the third fusible link witch looks off white or light gray leads to the grey connector.

may be slight changes in other years but should be similar enough to get you to the right area.

 

[Eduardo96FZJ80]

The fusible link is not in the connector, the wire leading from the battery post to the gray connector is the fusible link, it is a special undersized wire that melts easily when to much current is passed,

One of mine has cracked insulation from to tight of a turn as is goes into the black connector, picked up the whole set of 3 fusible links in one assembly from Dan for less than $10, if it ever gives me any trouble I'll swap in the new one,

Everybody should have a spare set of them they are cheap and I doubt you will find one at a parts store, dealers if they have are only open during business hours. Leading you to a less than ideal repair.

I installed the new one and put the old one in the glove box as a spare. Mine also was weather cracked @ the connection point.

 

[Gumby]

If you have a break in the fuseable link, it is easy to check. Fusible link insulation is made to be stretchable. Pull on the wires. If they stretch, it's broken.

 

[sandcruiser]

anyone know the approx amperage of each fusible link?
one of mine broke (didn't blow, just broke @ the terminal end) and I'd like to replace with fuses instead
but I don't know what size (how many amps) to be safe.

 

[Beowulf]

anyone know the approx amperage of each fusible link? one of mine broke (didn't blow, just broke @ the terminal end) and I'd like to replace with fuses instead but I don't know what size (how many amps) to be safe.

They are cheap from Dan (~$5 for the set) and if Toyota wanted fuses there, then there would be fuses since they are only 12" from the fuse box. You can also get them at NAPA. I carry a spare set in the trail box.

For a trail fix you can put in a fuse holder. I don't know for sure what the ratings are but I believe they are 15amp.

 

[sandcruiser]

hmmm... $10 for new and spare is probably a lot better than futzing with an extra project.
Thanks for the head's up!

 

[informationjunky]

hmmm... $10 for new and spare is probably a lot better than futzing with an extra project.
Thanks for the head's up!

I ordered two sets so I would have a spare when I blew mine