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Mace, what I've read about Circuit Breakers is it's hard to find a reasonably-priced one that rated for underhood temps. The one you show is rated at a working temp max of 180* F... I'm sure on a sultry summer day, it can get a bit hotter that that under the bonnet?

:meh:
 
Possibly, but we are at 3 years strong so far... I also don't think I have ever found it to be more than hot to the touch. IT's easy enough to bypass if it ever dies tho..

:meh:
 
Well http://www.amayama.com/ wasn't able to get the link either. Trying to decide which I should do. Either go fuses, three separate water proof fusible links or try to replace the wires in the one I have. I'll probably try to rebuild my original using the factory connectors and new wire. I try to keep things as oem as possible unless it's a noticeable upgrade. Thanks again for all the info guys. I'm terrible with electrical stuff.
 
I have purchased original connectors for the toyota plastic bodies from vintage connections. Coolerman also sells these http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/wiringmainframe.htm. I know most of the 62 connectors are different but the fusible link may still use the old style 6.3 or 8mm spade lugs. You have likely checked that but just throwing that out for info. I think rule of thumb is FL wire is two ga smaller than the harness wire it protects.
 
This is why I hate electrical. So I "fixed" my fusible link issue a few days ago. Have been driving and everything has been functioning as normal, until yesterday morning. I was driving to work when all of my gauge lights went out. Everything else works perfectly. But I notice I'm losing volts, so I assume my alt isn't charging my battery. Any idea what I should check? I checked all the new connections I made when I pulled out the old fusible link, they are still connected and not burnt up. Is the green single wire fusible link the one the connects my dash lights to my battery. Which wire is my alternator, is there a specific color I can look for?
 
When I installed my POS MeanGreen alternator, a few months later it failed. I first noticed my gauges stopped working. Turned out the POS MG was burning up my fusible link.


Maxdaddy said:
This is why I hate electrical. So I "fixed" my fusible link issue a few days ago. Have been driving and everything has been functioning as normal, until yesterday morning. I was driving to work when all of my gauge lights went out. Everything else works perfectly. But I notice I'm losing volts, so I assume my alt isn't charging my battery. Any idea what I should check? I checked all the new connections I made when I pulled out the old fusible link, they are still connected and not burnt up. Is the green single wire fusible link the one the connects my dash lights to my battery. Which wire is my alternator, is there a specific color I can look for?
Click to expand...
 
The white w/ blue trace (10 ga) is the stock wire from the alt to the battery terminal cluster). I'd have to look at a schematic for the others. Break out the VOM and check for voltage from the white w/ blue trace alternator lead to all the splits on the fusible link assembly - one of the three leads will show no volts. It's at least a starting point.


Not to get too far sideways with this post-----regarding the MG alternator
Interesting - I had to have my MG rebuilt over the summer (diodes crapped out) but it's been trouble free for the last 9 years or so. Do you pull any special loads? I'm running Hella H-4 but that's about it. I'm running the stock electrical harness too - MG plus the headlight circuit for the Hella's. No problems yet.
 
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I just find there customer service to really be the worst I've every delt with. It took them 7~8 months to fix my alt. And the new one burnt up in 10 months. I've got no real loads on the electrical, over the stock system.

There just a crappy outfit to deal with.
 
Maxdaddy,
It may be worth checking the grounds in the dash area. The gauges all share a ground thru the fuel gauge that leads to 1 of 2 grounds @ or next to the fuse block, but they go thru some red bonding blocks on the way there, that are known for issues, and the ground @ the fuse block leads to a ground in the dash on the left end close to the A-pillar, which is considered the final or "chassis" ground for those circuit. Not absolutely sure about the 62, but in the 60 the cluster illumination ground path is directly thru the rheostat that dims the dash lights.

If you take a wire attached to a known continuous ground and touch it to the ground side of the offending circuit and the circuit operates properly then the ground path for that circuit is the offender. This method can be used to isolate & find issues in different segments of a circuit as well.

HTH
C
 
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to check the grounds. I got my alternator working and my volts up. Still no lights on the dash though. Gonna dig into it tomorrow.
 
Need some help. Any idea why my fuse for my gauges and tail lights keeps blowing now? I used fusible link wire. Water proof connectors. Could it just be coincidence that they quit working shortly after I replaced my fusible link? Has anyone else had this issue? I saw a few threads but none that had a resolution. I have super bright LEDs in my gauge cluster.
 
Fuses blowing

×2 to the possibility of the LEDs. May need a load resistor for those lamps.?

Fuses are an OCPD (Over-Current Protection Device) and thus over-current blows fuses. Can be caused by too great a demand for power, dead-short, or bad connections causing higher circuit resistance.

Did the problem begin after the new dash lamps were installed? Or right after the link was replaced?? May need a resistance test on the link to verify the connections are tight, unless you soldered.
All the other original problems solved before?

Git FSM?
The chassis electric has a good trouble shooting guide.
 
CLove said:
×2 to the possibility of the LEDs. May need a load resistor for those lamps.? Fuses are an OCPD (Over-Current Protection Device) and thus over-current blows fuses. Can be caused by too great a demand for power, dead-short, or bad connections causing higher circuit resistance. Did the problem begin after the new dash lamps were installed? Or right after the link was replaced?? May need a resistance test on the link to verify the connections are tight, unless you soldered. All the other original problems solved before? Git FSM? The chassis electric has a good trouble shooting guide.
Click to expand...

Have had the LEDs for about 3 years give or take. The issue occurred about a day after I fixed the fusible link issue. Everything else works fine. The gauge lights worked for a day and a half before they went out while I was driving. I have an fsm somewhere. But I moved and have been searching for it frantically. I've never dealt with electrical issues so all of this resistance over current load yada yada might as well be Greek. Ha. I am learning though. Should I start by taking the gauge cluster off and checking the ground? Is there one wire on my fusible link responsible for the gauge cluster? I redid all of the connections last night just to make sure they where good. Put in a new fuse turned on the lights and it blew right away.
 
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