Fuel tank and lines routing (1 Viewer)

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Mar 27, 2011
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Location
Merrillan, WI
77 FJ40 and I swapped the 2F for a 3FE (well, I had someone else get it running after I put everything in place) and in the process the fuel separator was removed completely. After developing a leak in the fuel tank, I just removed everything and noticed the routing of the lines. No fuel separator, no charcoal canister, no need for emissions stuff.

The connection on the tank for the fuel separator (one closest to the passenger door of the three) goes to the fuel pump. The connection on the bottom bottom of the tank closest to the driver looks to be the return line. The connection on the drivers "side" of the tank and the other two connections for the fuel separator on top are simply plugged…filler neck is routed to the top of the tank as required. Obviously this arrangement works but doesn't seem right.

I have the original fuel separator with the little check valve on the top hose. I'm getting a new tank (same as OEM) from CCOT. Please…if you have suggestions and/or info on how to do this right cuz I know this thing needs to be vented…a little help here would be greatly appreciated.

Butch
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It sounds like you've done everything right, except you do need a vented cap. Some guys just drill a very small pin hole right through the center of their original cap. Don't know what your State smog laws are, but I'd certainly leave de-smogged if you can considering your 2F system was not designed the same as the 3F system. If you ever decide on one of the stand-alone rear tanks, my instruction sheet shows the plumbing for legal, non-legal, and dual tank options.
 
Isn't the whole point of having the plumbing and separator in place is to collect vapors? I do not have a vented cap and have all the vapor collection stuff in place and haven't had any issues.
 
I get the whole vent thing. I guess I'm just wondering exactly which connections from the tank to use because it seems logical to use the bottom one to go out and the one on the side right above the bottom one for the return…same a if you still had the 2F but didn't wan't the emissions/smog crap.

But…for over a year it's been run as I stated in my original post and I'm think'n if it isn't broke, don't fix it. I'm just trying to keep things clean and functional…and it just looked weird the way the gas lines were plumbed when I pulled the cover off.

I'm think'n when I put this new tank in I plug all three fuel separator connections and just use the two on the end like I previously stated for the out and back. Feedback? Suggestions?

Butch
 
I have a CCOT tank as well. The fuel supply to the pump is the BOTTOM connection on the tank(elbow). The return is in the side. This can come from your fuel pump(if you have a 3 pipe pump(supply/return/discharge), or your carb(if you have the return connection).
I plumbed my vents(3) together through the separator to the main line to the charcoal canister(this line has the check valve in it). Since my 77 has been desmogged, the charcoal canister inlet comes from this tank vent line. The outlet is plugged(normally would have gone through a vac switch solenoid to the carb). The drain goes down near the frame where it originally exhausted(but not inside the framework as original)
Hope this helps--
 
I completely understand what you're saying and I greatly appreciate the response. My issue is that I don't have a charcoal canister at all. Just the line from the elbow/out going to the fuel pump and the return line coming off the fuel rail (3FE conversion) back to the tank to one of the fuel separator connections…which doesn't look right or seem right but has worked for 3000 miles.

With that said, my CCOT tank arrived yesterday and I'm going to plump the return line to the return inlet on the side of the tank right above the outlet elbow like it supposed to be. Then I just have to figure out what to do with the fuel separator connections because I don't/haven't been running the fuel separator.


Do I put the fuel separator back on or continue to run without it and the lines capped off? If I don't put it back on, how should I vent the fuel tank? If I put it back on, where do I run the line that usually goes to the charcoal canister?

Thanks in Wisconsin,

Butch
 
I have this tank also. I run the 3 vent lines into the separator then straight out the bottom like OE and use a small filter like shown. This allows the tank to breath, keeps any crap from entering the line and vents any smell outside. I do not have a charcoal filter either. Some use a check valve here instead but I do not have vented cap, know where to buy one and don't really want to drill a hole in it.

When I plugged the 3 vent lines and no separator, the inside of the truck always smelled like fumes. I park the truck in a basement garage and can smell nothing now inside the truck or in the garage.



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Yep…that's what we're gonna do then. I put everything together today and just plugged the three connections for the separator but I've got the separator with the check valve so as soon as I replace the hoses I'll rig it so it simply vents out under the tub. I only run a family/bikini style top so fumes haven't been as noticeable but you still noticed it sometimes. Thanks all for the info.
 
I have this tank also. I run the 3 vent lines into the separator then straight out the bottom like OE and use a small filter like shown. This allows the tank to breath, keeps any crap from entering the line and vents any smell outside. I do not have a charcoal filter either. Some use a check valve here instead but I do not have vented cap, know where to buy one and don't really want to drill a hole in it. When I plugged the 3 vent lines and no separator, the inside of the truck always smelled like fumes. I park the truck in a basement garage and can smell nothing now inside the truck or in the garage.

Where did you buy the check valve/ filter?

Thanks
 
it's an inline gasoline filter for small engines. one can typically find them at a lawnmower shop or even at Lowes/Home Depot. it's not a check valve
 

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