Fuel pump replacement (1 Viewer)

[Craig Haworth]

Our 350,000 mile 08 LC200 , with a fairly new transmission is now struggling to run properly, and Feels like its fuel related. Have to think a new fuel pump is definitely in order, so that’s a given with those miles.

Question is whether to pull the tank or not to do it. Sensing there is an access cover in the rear, but haven’t found any video of a 08 200 fuel pump replacement. Anyone have one or a link to instructions? Worked on cars and trucks since the late sixties, so I’m up to it but would be nice to preview the process before digging in, or taking it in if it is reasonable to have it done!

The other issue is car has had an issue with multiple codes for some time now, including the following. The air pump on the passenger side now needs the module fix that we found on this site years ago, and installed, so that issue can be resolved easily. There are just a number of other issues as well, so it’s getting a bit frustrating knowing we don’t have a local Toyota dealership that can be trusted, so I’m trying to keep it running until we can replace it…

We keep a scanner in the car to help clear codes ,knowing our plan is to replace it , and car ran beautifully right up until yesterday,

I had visions of paying to have the motor pulled, replace all gaskets except head gaskets, ,and every seal possible, fuel injectors and spark plugs, fuel pump, water pump, t stat , alternator and power steering pump, AC compressor , belts and hoses, and any and all sensors that are tough to get to, and put it back together to see if we can get 500k out of it, but also know that will add up, and really isn’t a smart move…. so a new fuel pump might get us by a few more months where we can let it go…

Trans is a factory rebuild from Toyota, with about 20,000 miles….

Thoughts? Fuel pump change videos??

 

[Fisher23]

You'll need to drop the tank.
Best if it's near empty, and somewhat clean.
Remove the skid plats if you have them.
Tie the tank up with some ratchet straps.
Drop it a little and undo the lines and the wires.
Then lower it with the ratchet straps.

Someone did a partials write up and they insulated the tank .. it is under the fuel boiling thread.

I would avoid doing it Thursday if you're in Cedar key.

 

[TeCKis300]

You got this. Dropping the tank is the preferred method and fortunately it's easier than it would seem.

I would recommend changing the whole pump and fuel sender assembly while you're in there.

DIY Fuel Pump Replace

Replaced a fuel pump recently as part of resolving an idle fuel pressure issue. Diagnostic thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/p0171-system-too-lean-fuel-trim.1289672/ Didn't find much documentation on this site so here's my attempt for future reference. Couple strategies to do...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[grinchy]

I agree that dropping the tank is the way to go.
I did mine thru the access hatch and it requires pulling the middle seats, pulling back the carpet, and cutting the access hole larger so the pump assembly will fit thru it. If I never have to move those middle seats again that will be fine by me.
There are some pics in the sub tank thread linked in my signature if you want to explore the hard way more, but don’t do it.

 

[Craig Haworth]

Thanks to all for the recommendation to drop the tank. I suspected it was the preferred method, so that’s the plan at least for the fuel pump assy.

Not sure it is the cause of the most recent drive issue, but stumbling and surging as if it’s low on fuel sure points to that direction. Fuel filter has never been replaced either, so the plan is to replace both. At 350,000 miles. I think it’s safe to say it’s time to replace both!

I will share the list of codes once I obtain them, and I’m sure there are other issues, but I doubt the $ for a new fuel pump and filter is a waste of funds….

The car has had the passenger side air pump fault for some time, so we know it needs to be addressed as well, but like I said, my plan was to perform a list of repairs as noted, including the R&R of the engine to perform the gasket and seal replacement phase.

Car needs a number of things, but we were thinking of putting some $ into it and give it to our daughter to use in Colorado Springs for a couple of years until she graduates from the Air Force Academy…..where cadets don’t want pristine cars because of potential hail damage.

Boring story, but I sensed many would be wondering why we would consider putting $$ into a LC with 350k on the clock…

Thoughts??

 

[gasman4u]

If it's been in your stable for a while or you're comfortable with maintenance history, I wouldn't have any issues with putting in some money to fix this issue right the first time. 350k on the odo or not. I'd do the same thing if it were mine with 350k on the clock.

 

[bloc]

R&r the whole engine for leaks? What leaks?

 

[Craig Haworth]

R&r the whole engine for leaks? What leaks?

Rear cam seals, rear main seal for three seals. Valley is probably leaking, cam covers are both leaking too….. Getting a price to have 5.7 pulled and reinstalled, where I can perform the work , and depending on the cost, am considering it.

I’ve pulled enough engines and transmissions over the course of my life, where I’m not afraid of doing it, but not set up anymore to do it myself!… which changes things

 

[Craig Haworth]

You'll need to drop the tank.
Best if it's near empty, and somewhat clean.
Remove the skid plats if you have them.
Tie the tank up with some ratchet straps.
Drop it a little and undo the lines and the wires.
Then lower it with the ratchet straps.

Someone did a partials write up and they insulated the tank .. it is under the fuel boiling thread.

I would avoid doing it Thursday if you're in Cedar key.

Found a dealer that’s really fair in Lakeland, so I am at least going to change the pump and strainer…. With 350k, not sure how much longer we will keep the LC, but thinking the fuel pump almost has to be an issue as well as the fuel filter which has never been changed!

Have a floor jack, lumber and ratchet straps, and with weather from Helene coming, what else would I be doing…..as long as the beer doesn’t run out!

 

[2021 LC200]

With 350k, not sure how much longer we will keep the LC

Seems 350k is just run in and with a few repairs ready for 350k more…

 

[bloc]

For the record there is no fuel filter on a USDM 200. Just the strainer on the pump. Mine was almost spotless when I changed pumps at about 180k.

 

[Craig Haworth]

For the record there is no fuel filter on a USDM 200. Just the strainer on the pump. Mine was almost spotless when I changed pumps at about 180k.

I was actually wondering about that having never seen a fuel filter, but never looked hard!

Interesting Toyota didn’t include one, but they know what they’re doing.

Sounds like we got twice the longevity out of our fuel pump than you did, so I have to think it’s time. Would like to test it before buying a $450 pump assembly, but at 350k, it Almost has to Need replacement, and symptoms align with a fuel supply issue.

 

[grinchy]

I was actually wondering about that having never seen a fuel filter, but never looked hard!

Interesting Toyota didn’t include one, but they know what they’re doing.

Sounds like we got twice the longevity out of our fuel pump than you did, so I have to think it’s time. Would like to test it before buying a $450 pump assembly, but at 350k, it Almost has to Need replacement, and symptoms align with a fuel supply issue.

At this mileage it is entirely possible your fuel injectors could use a clean, or even replacement.

 

[Craig Haworth]

At this mileage it is entirely possible your fuel injectors could use a clean, or even replacement.

Update,
I am still planning to replace the fuel pump, but not sure that is the issue. Started and scanned it this morning, and engine starts right up but slight shake which has never happened prior. Codes as follows:

Under "Global OBD2", P 038 ( Ign Coil "H" Primary/Secondary Circuit DTC Severity 2 of 3 ) is only current code shown.

Under "ABS", C1201 ( Engine Control System Malfunction and EV Control System Malfunction ) and C1268 ( Transfer L4 Position Circuit ) are only codes shown.

Under "SRS", B 1653 ( Driver Seat Position Sensor ), B1656 ( Seat Buckle LH ) B1826 ( Open Inside Squib LH ) and B1650 ( Occupant Classification System Malfunction ) are the four codes shown.

I cleared all codes, re started car ( did not drive yet ), and no codes returned except P 038 in OBD2.

Car shakes a little as mentioned at idle in Neutral, so I'm thinking ignition or fuel issue right? Car has no issue increasing RPM with throttle, albeit in Neutral, and appears to smooth out as RPM increases, but another test drive is in order obviously. Will perform that when I have someone to follow, as I don't want to get stranded and walk a marathon home....

With 350K, I still think it probably could use a new fuel pump regardless, but might have ignition issues as well with the " P 038 Ignition Coil "H" code shown. Injectors too maybe, so perhaps a combination of issues.

Hate to just start throwing parts at it hoping to fix the issue, as it might be something else, but again, with those miles and knowing we have never touched the spark plugs, coils, injectors or fuel pump, it may be time to replace some or all of the above.

Car has a factory rebuilt trans W 20K, new Michelins, brakes, battery, grille, headlamp assemblies, aligned and drove beautifully right up until the other day when it started acting up on a road trip, where we had to continue to clear codes to get it to accelerate enough to drive home safely ( 75mph-80mph ). Our collie decided to chew up some of the seat belts a while back, so it has some ABS issues, but until we are able to buy a newer LC or LX 570, we were hoping it would get us there..

Any thoughts on testing the fuel system? Pressure test? How long are ignition coils and injectors good for on these 5.7S?

Thanks!

 

[grinchy]

if you haven't done coils yet it is definitely time. The OEM supplier is Denso, Rock Auto sells authentic Denso coils. They have the Toyota Part number ground off.

 

[04UZJ100]

Have Plugs ever been changed?

I’d start with 8 plugs and 8 coils before dropping the tank.

Was your Cruiser included in the fuel pump recall? Was it done?

 

[bloc]

if you haven't done coils yet it is definitely time. The OEM supplier is Denso, Rock Auto sells authentic Denso coils. They have the Toyota Part number ground off.

I agree.

 

[Craig Haworth]

if you haven't done coils yet it is definitely time. The OEM supplier is Denso, Rock Auto sells authentic Denso coils. They have the Toyota Part number ground off.

I agree.

So I just spoke with an independent shop to see what they would charge to at least look at it before I spend $700+ to replace the ignition coils and spark plugs, and when I told him we have never changed the plugs, he said he wouldn't touch it because he said the plugs would probably not come out with that many miles on them, and it could lead to much bigger problems i.e. stripped threads in head, etc....... That may be the case, but perhaps, these 5.7s were designed where the plug doesn't extend into the combustion chamber of the head enough where this could happen.

Now I'm thinking I need to see if I can extract the plugs myself, before having anyone else work on it. If they wont come out, I'm going to see if any of the coils look bad, as the P 038 code ( Ignition Coil "H" ) might be exactly what's wrong, and I might be able to extend use of the truck until we can buy a newer one.

Curious what this code designates with the "H"...Possible cylinder # 8 perhaps???

Thoughts, and yes, I more than appreciate any and all help with this dilemma....

 

[grinchy]

So I just spoke with an independent shop to see what they would charge to at least look at it before I spend $700+ to replace the ignition coils and spark plugs, and when I told him we have never changed the plugs, he said he wouldn't touch it because he said the plugs would probably not come out with that many miles on them, and it could lead to much bigger problems i.e. stripped threads in head, etc....... That may be the case, but perhaps, these 5.7s were designed where the plug doesn't extend into the combustion chamber of the head enough where this could happen.

Now I'm thinking I need to see if I can extract the plugs myself, before having anyone else work on it. If they wont come out, I'm going to see if any of the coils look bad, as the P 038 code ( Ignition Coil "H" ) might be exactly what's wrong, and I might be able to extend use of the truck until we can buy a newer one.

Curious what this code designates with the "H"...Possible cylinder # 8 perhaps???

Thoughts, and yes, I more than appreciate any and all help with this dilemma....

$50*8 for coils. $10*8 for plugs. -> $500.

My code had a cylinder 1 - 8 in it, but A - H makes some sense. Probably code reader dependent.

Spark plugs toward the radiator on both sides are pretty easy to get too, take only 2 or 3 min to take out. The two next to the firewall are more awkward to get to. The US Passenger firewall plug (#8) is the most difficult, that one takes often 10-15 min to get out. The coil is hard to snake out. I moved the main engine loom and unbolted the heater lines and that makes it much easier and reduces the time a lot.

No idea why the spark plugs would be 'stuck' in the threads, this is a hand assembled engine from japan . . .

While we're talking parts to replace - consider a MAF, 2 oxygen sensors, and 2 a/f sensors. Those can also contribute to 'runs rough' . . . these things are all on 7-10 year useful life for me.

 

[Craig Haworth]

$50*8 for coils. $10*8 for plugs. -> $500.

My code had a cylinder 1 - 8 in it, but A - H makes some sense. Probably code reader dependent.

Spark plugs toward the radiator on both sides are pretty easy to get too, take only 2 or 3 min to take out. The two next to the firewall are more awkward to get to. The US Passenger firewall plug (#8) is the most difficult, that one takes often 10-15 min to get out. The coil is hard to snake out. I moved the main engine loom and unbolted the heater lines and that makes it much easier and reduces the time a lot.

No idea why the spark plugs would be 'stuck' in the threads, this is a hand assembled engine from japan . . .

While we're talking parts to replace - consider a MAF, 2 oxygen sensors, and 2 a/f sensors. Those can also contribute to 'runs rough' . . . these things are all on 7-10 year useful life for me.

Thank You for the insight. Never bought anything from Rock Auto, and have always tried to by OEM for the LC, but they were $800+ for the coils and plugs, so I'm open for ideas like this. Going to look specifically at coil # 8 ( passenger side @ firewall right?) first, and see if I can see any issue. New plugs are definitely in order as well as all 8 coils, because of the mileage...but again, I want to make sure I address the current problem first ( could be multiple issues I realize ). If its the fuel pump, I will change it first, but codes don't seem to point in that direction.

East enough to change a coil, and see if there is any change in codes..... If it helps, will change the rest and plugs as well, and see how that works. The other items you mentioned are obviously due as well, so I am going to anticipate changing them as well. I will leave the fuel pump replacement for last, but plan on doing that as well.

Once all of the above are replaced, I sense the car will be good, and will work well for us again until we can replace it next year with a newer LC 200....as its the only SUV we are interested in. Wish I new how stout these vehicles were years ago, as I would be retired by now..... We had just about everything (multiple SC and non SC Range Rovers and Range Rover Sports, Turbo and non Turbo Cayennes , 8.2L GMC Yukon XL 4X4, GMC DuraMax Dualies, Ford PS Diesel F450s/F350s, BMW M5s and M Roadsters, Porsche 996s, 997s including a 08 GT3RS, multiple late 60s/early 70s muscle cars, etc etc etc...because I was a true car and truck nut, loved building them and " upgrading " them, and nothing , absolutely nothing was built anything like these amazing 200 series vehicles
( except the F450s/350s ).............. Man was I dumb, but what a good time I had enjoying so many amazing but way too expensive toys......

Thanks again....