Looks like now I have a fuel line leak. What do I do to relieve the fuel pressure to slow down the drip while I find a repair kit?
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Fuel line leak (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Birdseyedavis
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John McVicker
SILVER Star
For one thing, loosen your gas cap where you fill it up.
And just to be sure…what vehicle & engine to you have?
And just to be sure…what vehicle & engine to you have?
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- Thread starter
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John, dang what an easy solution. Thanks! I just went outside and loosen the cap. I have a 1996 KZJ95 Toyota Prado with the diesel 1KZ-TE. I’m gonna look in the online manual.
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- #4
Can’t really find anything online concerning a process for relieving pressure before removing the fuel line. I found one thread in another forum where the owner simply loosened the gas cap and removed the negative battery cable as a just in case. I would hate to remove the fuel line only to find out that I got air in the line that became difficult to get out of the system. Maybe I’m overthinking it (wouldn’t be the first time)? For clarification the fuel line in question ties into a rubber hose (held on with the typical Toyota hose clamp) going into the tank and a flared nut along the chassis towards the front (well before the engine bay). I will get pics of those tonight. Oh and I ordered some 5/16 aluminum fuel line from the Zon and will need to get a flaring tool. As well as a tubing bender. Unless it’s a small pinhole leak and maybe I can get by with a simple union.
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Looks like the lines are pretty rusty around the gas tank. I was wrong about the front end termination point. It stops right below the fuel filter.
Pretty sure there's no in-tank pump and the fuel line is under vacuum up until the lift pump mounted on the IP. I've fixed failed hard lines by cutting off the damaged section, cleaning the outside of the hard line well, slipping standard fuel line over the remaining hard line with no flaring or ribbing, and using a couple quality hose clamps.
If your state has a biodiesel mandate then quality fuel line is very important, biodiesel will shred anything not specifically rated for it. Even small concentrations of biodiesel will eventually damage fuel line not rated for biodiesel, it'll just take longer. I like Gates Barricade hose.
If your state has a biodiesel mandate then quality fuel line is very important, biodiesel will shred anything not specifically rated for it. Even small concentrations of biodiesel will eventually damage fuel line not rated for biodiesel, it'll just take longer. I like Gates Barricade hose.
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So it sounds like aluminum fuel line is not the best solution. Nickel copper would be best I think according to Mr. google? But you are saying you have had good luck with cutting the steel fuel line and adding a gates barricade hose over the existing steel line (I.D. of gates=O.D. of existing steel line) and adding hose clamps?
Yup that's it exactly. Haven't done so on the 1KZ or Prado, but lots on my 617 Yota swap before just replacing all the hard lines with Gates Barricade hose.
Make sure and keep everything clean, keep all the dirt you can out of the hose ends. Recommend a tubing cutter and not a saw for a clean cut without introducing metal particles to the situation.
Make sure and keep everything clean, keep all the dirt you can out of the hose ends. Recommend a tubing cutter and not a saw for a clean cut without introducing metal particles to the situation.
- Thread starter
- #9
Oh yeah was planning on using a tubing cutter for sure. I will post a pic after I get it done.
