fuel leak

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

M

mike phillips

10 Year
Joined
Aug 30, 2014
Threads
33
Messages
165
Location
Colbert, Oklahoma
hello guys. been a little while since I last posted. first, thanks for all the help I've received from everyone. this forum is a lifesaver to me. I have a 1990 RHD hzj73 ZX. so far from what I can tell it runs pretty good. I had to install a new clutch fan and fix my lock-outs, and winch, and all was going good and I noticed a fuel leak. was hoping it was just a loose hose but it looks like its dripping from under the injection pump and maybe only after I start it up. I could work on my old 74 fj40 but never owned a diesel before so I got a lot of learning to do. but I guess everybody did that wound up with a diesel motor. so I hope I don't have a crack in the pump housing or something. I sure hope its an easy fix as I don't have a lot of money to take it to a diesel mechanic. anyway, does this sound familiar to anyone? all I can see is that its dripping from the bottom of the pump, not sure where the leak originates. its a pretty good drip though. doesn't look like its coming from where the lines are hooked up to the pump. thanks to everyone for your help. I appreciate it. [edit] also, I have around 250000 km or 150000 miles on it and it runs really smooth with no smoke at start-up and no missing at tailpipe. and it doesn't use any oil at all. I think it did sit up for about 2 years though, before I bought it and drove it home, about 1200 miles. it only just now started leaking. thanks.
 
Last edited:
It would be my guess that a fuel leak that stops after warm up from the IP area means bad seals in the IP itself.

Check to see if you have the ACSD on the IP. That itself is best removed with a delete plate, a leak from that area is not a good sign.
 
I had this happen with my BJ73 several yeats ago. (Before it was mine.) Seals in the pump let go and it had to be rebuilt. I hope your issue is as not as serious.
 
hey guys- thanks for the replies again. this is confusing a little as I didn't really expect this. I mean the timing belt was changed at 202000 km and I think there is only 250000 km on it now so does this usually happen this early where the fuel pump needs to be rebuilt? im not sure what ACSD means but I only just saw it leaking and haven't driven to a warm up state to see if it quit leaking. I would think the IP would be good for at least 300000 miles or so? does anyone think it could possibly be anything else? or, if it is bad, is it hard to take it off and have it rebuilt? who could do a good job and what might it cost? really hate to hear this, seemed like it ran so good. thanks guys.
 
It's not the miles, it's the age. That thing is almost 30 years old.
 
mike phillips said:
if it is bad, is it hard to take it off and have it rebuilt?
Click to expand...

It is simple to remove but time consuming and they get stuck sometimes.
You wont necessarily need a rebuild unless internal parts are worn. But to dismantle the pump and replace all the seals and gaskets and bench test it, is probably 3 hours labor. I was charged $450 AUD , about $350 USD a few years back by someone with plenty of experience. My problem was I had a hardly used pump that had been left sitting with diesel inside that had dried up.
Anyone who can do VW Golf fuel inj pumps should be able to do these as they are based on the same design (Bosch VE rotary)
 
If you can't find someone local give Odd Iron a shout.
 
much thanks to all you guys! cruiser dan, I can see how the age of it would make it do what it does. and it probably doesn't help much that it sat up for 2 years either, probably like yours did rosco. I wasn't thinking of that. and I don't know anyone around here except maybe someone who works on diesel trucks. I don't know if they would understand these vehicles. I will probably give odd iron a shout since he can probably do the bench test for it too. only want to do this once. do I have to do a timing thing when I put it back on? special tools? anyone know of a manual for sale I could get? sam sent me one to download, and I did, but I like having one on hand in my shop while im working on it. all of you sure are a lot of good help. THANK YOU!
 
mike phillips said:
but I like having one on hand in my shop while im working on it. all of you sure are a lot of good help.
Click to expand...

I print off the pages I need and take them to my workshop. If they dont get too dirty, you can put them in a file for next time.

Fuel injection pumps are a bit like carburetors in the fact that there is only a few ways they can work. An experienced person would know that this type of injection pump is very similar to other Bosch rotary pumps. All competent injection repair shops know how to get parts from Denso

mike phillips said:
do I have to do a timing thing when I put it back on?
Click to expand...

Usually the shop can get it pretty close, it may need some final adjustment. They should start and run ok .
You need a good puller to get the pump to separate from the shaft. Its the worst part of the job sometimes. Other times they almost fall off, but yours appears to have been there awhile.
 
Whats the name of the guy that visits here that can rebuild these pumps. You would have to send it to him interstate, but he should give you peace of mind.
 
hey rosco- I guess I will print from the manual too. least I have it to where I can do that. and mine sat for 2 years but I have put about 3000 miles on it since I got it and its always run just fine- no misses and plenty of fuel. I bet the seals are just gone as it only has about 155000 miles on it. it sat the 2 years at a guys shop before I bought it and drove it home.
 
mike phillips said:
hey rosco- I guess I will print from the manual too. least I have it to where I can do that. and mine sat for 2 years but I have put about 3000 miles on it since I got it and its always run just fine- no misses and plenty of fuel. I bet the seals are just gone as it only has about 155000 miles on it. it sat the 2 years at a guys shop before I bought it and drove it home.
Click to expand...

This is why its leaking. Can you tell exactly where the leaking is from by cleaning it up and watching the leak come back?
But at 155miles or 280000 , it is the lowest mileage where they start to need internal work. This one I had stripped down and rebuilt. The oultined bits are the worn parts and in the 2nd pic as it come back with new housing.
1HZ PICS 003.webp


1HZ PICS 002.webp
 
hey rosco. thanks for the pics and your time on this. I can see it setting up for 2 years and causing this
roscoFJ73 said:
is the lowest mileage where they start to need internal work.
Click to expand...
but I didn't understand lowest mileage part. seems like they would last a long time if they were driven and not set up. I cant see it leaking from the top or either end of it. maybe its coming from the side towards the motor. I will try to clean it up and see if I can see it again. I thought about driving it and see if it would 'fix itself'. maybe re-lubricate the seals or something. everything is real clean on the motor, no leaks of any kind, and this really surprised me. its getting plenty of gas and never hesitates or anything. I guess it is what it is.:( I printed stuff on it from the manual so I wont be all in the dark on it. guess I will start my learning experience with diesel motors. thanks a lot rosco.
 
I had a small leak on my IP, changed the gasket. six months later started leaking somewhere else.
I ended up buying the seal kit and had all the seals replaced and IP overhauled.

runs better(rpm increases after a cold start-wasnt before), egt temps are lower and fuel consumpltion is 1l/100km lower.

cost of doeing that was not cheap, but hopefully I wont need to do this for a while.

I think once starts to leak, its a sign all seals are aged. unless theres some loose bolt somewhere.
 
mike phillips said:
but I didn't understand lowest mileage part
Click to expand...

Its hard to guess when they will die, but 155000 miles is about the mileage where some begin to need rebuilds. Most go around 250000.
The 1HZ and 1HD T pumps are not long lasting compared to other rotary pumps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom