Fuel injection line leak

[jacobfranklin90]

Hey y'all,

Just finished a 2,700+ mile long road trip last week. On the last 200 mile stretch home I started smelling fuel vapor. Looked into it and I'm reading it is most likely a leak in the fuel injection lines. I'm wondering if any of you have had this issue before and approximately how much did it cost to fix?

I got ripped off royally when i bought this rig.

2000 Landcruiser with 120,000 miles for $12,700. Sounded like a good deal. Owner told me that the passenger exhaust manifold needed to be replaced. Got quoted for $1,200 so I thought I was still getting a deal for the engine having such low mileage.

Took it to the shop. Both passenger and driver manifolds needed to be replaced $2,800

10 miles from the shop my engine light starts flashing. Catalytic converters were shot. The previous owner failed a smog test in November and then somehow passed smog in December. I was only shown the December pass. $4,300 to replace the cats.

So now I'm about $20,000 in to this car that keeps having problems.

Sorry, just needed to vent.

P.S. if you see a guy named Brice in Petaluma, CA , punch him in the dick for me.

 

[benjawi4]

Hey y'all,

Just finished a 2,700+ mile long road trip last week. On the last 200 mile stretch home I started smelling fuel vapor. Looked into it and I'm reading it is most likely a leak in the fuel injection lines. I'm wondering if any of you have had this issue before and approximately how much did it cost to fix?

I got ripped off royally when i bought this rig.

2000 Landcruiser with 120,000 miles for $12,700. Sounded like a good deal. Owner told me that the passenger exhaust manifold needed to be replaced. Got quoted for $1,200 so I thought I was still getting a deal for the engine having such low mileage.

Took it to the shop. Both passenger and driver manifolds needed to be replaced $2,800

10 miles from the shop my engine light starts flashing. Catalytic converters were shot. The previous owner failed a smog test in November and then somehow passed smog in December. I was only shown the December pass. $4,300 to replace the cats.

So now I'm about $20,000 in to this car that keeps having problems.

Sorry, just needed to vent.

P.S. if you see a guy named Brice in Petaluma, CA , punch him in the dick for me.

How did you determine the cats needed to be replaced? The fuel smell could be as simple as a faulty gas cap. I failed my first emissions test (CO) because of the gas cap and when I put on a new one I was thrilled to realize the gas I had been smelling was simply a $15 fix rather than a more serious issue. I failed my next emissions test the next day and I was stunned, because my numbers were fine the day before when the gas cap failed.

After stewing about it all day I remembered something @2001LC had once said on here, something to the effect of how the FSM states not to idle longer than a few minutes because the carbon (I think?) can build up. I realized that I had taken an alternate route to the emissions test that day, a route that was 45 minutes of stop and go (idling) traffic. The NEXT day I went to a different testing station that I knew would be a 30 minute TRAFFIC FREE route so that I could blow out all that build-up before the test, and lo and behold, I passed with flying colors.

 

[2001LC]

Welcome, and sorry to hear of you troubles.
First $2,800 for both exhaust manifold is a ridiculous price, find a new shop.

There is a number of different reasons you may smell fuel.
Anything else going on?
Is your engine temp gauge reading in middle of range?
What's been done like tune ups?
Any mod?

 

[jacobfranklin90]

How did you determine the cats needed to be replaced? The fuel smell could be as simple as a faulty gas cap. I failed my first emissions test (CO) because of the gas cap and when I put on a new one I was thrilled to realize the gas I had been smelling was simply a $15 fix rather than a more serious issue. I failed my next emissions test the next day and I was stunned, because my numbers were fine the day before when the gas cap failed.

After stewing about it all day I remembered something @2001LC had once said on here, something to the effect of how the FSM states not to idle longer than a few minutes because the carbon (I think?) can build up. I realized that I had taken an alternate route to the emissions test that day, a route that was 45 minutes of stop and go (idling) traffic. The NEXT day I went to a different testing station that I knew would be a 30 minute TRAFFIC FREE route so that I could blow out all that build-up before the test, and lo and behold, I passed with flying colors.

I tried to smog it and it wouldnt pass because of catalyst not reading. the shop owner told me to drive a couple hundred miles and come back. I did that about 3 times with no luck. The smog shop owner told me not to worry about it unless the engine light comes on. I eventually was driving and the check engine light came on blinking. At this point I took the truck to a well known Landcruiser specialist, Mudrak in Sonoma CA. I thought the issue was due to the exhaust manifold problem. The shop owner checked the engine light and repaired the exhaust manifolds. The engine light was off when I left the shop and after about 10 miles came on blinking and I could feel a serious drag in the car. I didnt trust the guy at that shop so I took it to the shop where I used to have my 4runner worked on. This guy, who I somewhat trust, noticed the big drag and replaced some coils thinking that would fix it. It helped but the car still didn't have the power that it should have. He then checked the cats and determined that was the issue. The drive was completely different, for the better, afterwards.


@2001LC I'm seeing fuel on the ground underneath the car now. Noticing about 2 MPG less as well.

Mods include OME springs and shocks plus Slee offroad diff drop kit, ARB bullbar in the front, Slee bumper in the rear, slee sliders, outback roof rack.

 

[2001LC]

***


@2001LC I'm seeing fuel on the ground underneath the car now. Noticing about 2 MPG less as well.

Mods include OME springs and shocks plus Slee offroad diff drop kit, ARB bullbar in the front, Slee bumper in the rear, slee sliders, outback roof rack.

Where on ground under engine or...? So that means a leak for sure, can you follow it back?

 

[jacobfranklin90]

@2001LC Its puddling up underneath the back of the truck. Almost centered under the rear axle.

 

[n55luvr]

There are no fuel lines behind the rear axle. Fuel tank sits just in front of rear axle.

You sure it's gas?

 

[Julian Stead]

The fuel filler pipes can rust through and cause a leak in this area.

 

[Julian Stead]

Ps. The leak must be bad if it is puddling as it will evaporate quickly.

 

[n55luvr]

The fuel filler pipes can rust through and cause a leak in this area.

Good point Julian, didn't think about that. I could see that area leaking but I'd assume it would only leak for a short time right after filling to the max.

 

[2001LC]

Touch it with finger and smell, you'll know for sure if it's gas.

Edited: Coolant smell sweet.

Just for reference: Fuel tank, fuel lines, return lines, filler neck and such on DS.
I believe picture show vapor lines.

 

[Julian Stead]

Good point Julian, didn't think about that. I could see that area leaking but I'd assume it would only leak for a short time right after filling to the max.

Yes your right, depending on how the vehicle is parked and how full the tank is would affect the leak if it is the filler pipe.

 

[jacobfranklin90]

Ps. The leak must be bad if it is puddling as it will evaporate quickly.

Puddling was dramatic. It had been raining so the drops of fuel weren't evaporating quickly

 

[2001LC]

Have you searched for the leak's source?