I searched in this threat on previous post for the solution with no luck to this specific problem. I bought an FJ60 recently and the Fuel Gauge wasn’t working (always on Empty). Now take it easy on me please I’m not an expert on electrical. I followed a few wire schematics I found online to find out which wires are which. I wired radios, heated seat pads, light bars and so on but I’m by no means an expert
First thing I did was assume that the fuel sender unit is corroded and replaced it. That did not fix the problem.
So I started to see if the sender was getting power with my multimeter. When I complete the circuit with both of the tips I get nothing but if I only put the tip of the power line and place the ground tip on a metal on the truck I get a reading so I decided to chase the ground wire but that was a process.
It goes from yellow with red stripe for power and white and black stripe for ground to another wire plug by the rear quarter panel where it will plug into a blue line for power and blue with yellow stripe for ground
I chased the blue with yellow for a long time until I got to the dash and started to remove a lot of the tape to try to find where it goes and if also how it will eventually turn from blue and blue with yellow stripe to again YELLOW with Red stripe and white with black stripe when it gets to the cluster But there was no easy way to do this unless I completely untapped everything and removed most zip ties and it would have been a process that I would have to re-tape the whole harness again
So I tried to do something different and run power and ground wire all the way to the cluster from the fuel sender until and try to tap into the cluster wires (yellow with Red stripe for power and white with black stripe for ground) and I also tapped the power line into a 7.5 fuse just in case. Not sure if that’s a good move or not but I went with it.
Now the gauge reads full but I’m pretty sure I don’t have a full tank. And I also previously took the fuel sender unit out and manually moved the floating part up and down with no reflection on the gauge.
Is there any recommendations or if someone knows where or how the blue lines turn yellow w/ red and white with black again. And if you don’t then is there a way I can successfully do the way around the harness and make the two wires I ran straight from the fuel sending unit work successfully and provide the accurate reading instead of just full?
P.S in the last photo I posted, I tapped into 13 for power after it came from the fuse and 12 for the ground
First thing I did was assume that the fuel sender unit is corroded and replaced it. That did not fix the problem.
So I started to see if the sender was getting power with my multimeter. When I complete the circuit with both of the tips I get nothing but if I only put the tip of the power line and place the ground tip on a metal on the truck I get a reading so I decided to chase the ground wire but that was a process.
It goes from yellow with red stripe for power and white and black stripe for ground to another wire plug by the rear quarter panel where it will plug into a blue line for power and blue with yellow stripe for ground
I chased the blue with yellow for a long time until I got to the dash and started to remove a lot of the tape to try to find where it goes and if also how it will eventually turn from blue and blue with yellow stripe to again YELLOW with Red stripe and white with black stripe when it gets to the cluster But there was no easy way to do this unless I completely untapped everything and removed most zip ties and it would have been a process that I would have to re-tape the whole harness again
So I tried to do something different and run power and ground wire all the way to the cluster from the fuel sender until and try to tap into the cluster wires (yellow with Red stripe for power and white with black stripe for ground) and I also tapped the power line into a 7.5 fuse just in case. Not sure if that’s a good move or not but I went with it.
Now the gauge reads full but I’m pretty sure I don’t have a full tank. And I also previously took the fuel sender unit out and manually moved the floating part up and down with no reflection on the gauge.
Is there any recommendations or if someone knows where or how the blue lines turn yellow w/ red and white with black again. And if you don’t then is there a way I can successfully do the way around the harness and make the two wires I ran straight from the fuel sending unit work successfully and provide the accurate reading instead of just full?
P.S in the last photo I posted, I tapped into 13 for power after it came from the fuse and 12 for the ground
