I have searched and read the old threads on this, but need a bit more help.
Tested at the sending unit and got the proper ohms there. Local mechanic said that if you you short out one of the wires there is should make the gauge go from empty to full. Tried that and I found one pin that I could short out that would cause the gauge to go completely dead - from his point this would indicate the gauge was bad, but when I take the instrument cluster out and disconnect power to it, it cleary turns the guage on and off.
I still think it is most likely the sending unit, but would like some way to confirm this before dropping the $160+ on one.
Anyone have a fsm they could look at for me?
thanks!
Tested at the sending unit and got the proper ohms there. Local mechanic said that if you you short out one of the wires there is should make the gauge go from empty to full. Tried that and I found one pin that I could short out that would cause the gauge to go completely dead - from his point this would indicate the gauge was bad, but when I take the instrument cluster out and disconnect power to it, it cleary turns the guage on and off.
I still think it is most likely the sending unit, but would like some way to confirm this before dropping the $160+ on one.
Anyone have a fsm they could look at for me?
thanks!