Fuel boiling, smelling gas... what to try first?

[dfmorse]

Gas evaporating

Noah i have the same set up, but the only time it seems to be not getting gas is when it sits for a day....
It takes a lot of pumping and cranking in order to turn it over...

Is this the same issue??

Noah; not quite the same thing. Mine does the evap routine too. I've forgotten how to fix this, I just pump, choke and it will fire after a while.

...

 

[TLC Whee]

Figure out where that smell is from. Is your gas tank pressurized when you remove the cap?

The smell is definitely from the carb. I can hear it bubbling there too.

I'm not sure about the pressure when removing the cap, though. It's possible and I just didn't pay attention. I'll have to check that.

It definitely runs fine. I don't have any problems running. Also cold-starting is fine. Warm-starting sometimes takes a moment to fire up (thus the vapor lock issues I thought).

I'll check the heat riser and see if I can tell if it's stuck.

Thanks, all!

-Danimal

 

[Pin_Head]

With fuel boiling out of the carb and the engine hot, it is flooded when it comes to restarting it.

The drill for starting a flooded engine is:
Choke off.
Hold gas pedal to the floor, but do not pump it.
Turn key.
When engine starts, let up on the pedal.

 

[fjwagon]

After looking at the pic,I agree getting some kind of heat insulator, your carb is acting like a heat sink. The plate below your weber carb lookes likes its aluminium. The Oem one is not made of Aluminiiun and I'm not sure if you could use an oem one instead even if you wanted with the weber. check sor dot coms for reference.

You might want to reinstall the heat insulator between the carb and the intake manifold.

 

[ToddsFJ40]

Do you guys think it's more likely the fuel filter is what's getting too hot vs. the rubber lines? I.e. if I just moved the fuel filter but kept the lines as-is? Or is it better to just do both at the same time: move filter & switch to steel?

I like the idea of figuring where the heat is "pooling". I'll try that, thanks Guppie!

One other thing: I've heard some people who had this problem and it was the fuel pump. What sorts of things would I check for with that? Just excessively hot pump? Leaks of some kind? Something else?

As for the mechanic, I'm frankly surprised. He's the guy everyone recommends for toyotas. I really don't want to doubt him as I figure I'll probably need to use him more. It's possible that he wasn't really able to replicate the problem and I didn't describe it well. Hrm.

One of the things I've learned in life is: ya gotta trust your mechanic or your screwed (figuratively and even sometimes literally). *sigh*

Oh, and thank you all! I'll get this licked soon! (and have a happy wife and garaged TLC all in one. Wheee!!!)

-Danimal

Your mechanic is either lazy or not as good as you think. Probably just lazy. Relocate the fuel filter to the other side of the engine compartment. In front of the old steel fuel lines and before the fuel pump. This will do two things. First it will stop making the fuel filter act as a heat sink and second it will do what it is supposed to do. Which is to filter fuel and protect the fuel pump and carb. You would also be advised to return the heat shield to protect the carb from heat. They put a fan in my 1978 FJ40 to help with this problem. I have also replaced my exhaust header to a aftermarket type and I feel this has helped as well.