Front Wheel Bearing replacement

[gomez268]

My truck has 204k miles on it, and i'm starting to think the noise i had attributed to my MT tires is actually the wheel bearing. With the miles on the truck, i think its a good enough idea to just go ahead and replace the bearings before they get any worst. I have a harbor Freight 20-ton shop press and have found this video and document laying out the process to where I feel I could get this job done on a weekend. (fingers crossed). I have priced out the parts and for doing both front wheel bearings and re-using my hubs i'm looking at about $500.

I'm listing out the parts below, please let me know if there is any additional part that I might be missing.

Bearing Assembly
Product ID: 43570-60031 - $179.89
Inner Seal
Product ID: 90316-83001 - $44.05
Outer Seal
Product ID: 90312-87001 - $21.18
Bearing Assembly O-Ring
Product ID: 90301-99182 - $6.41

Parts are 4,5,6 & 7 on the diagram below.

I did see on another post where someone got the bearing and hub assembly together and preassembled but cost is $449.00 per side.

Let me know if there is anything I might be missing or not taking into account that could delay or stop this project from taking place. I'm still in the planning stages and would prefer to do the work myself then take it to a mechanic. Baring any serious objections or events that would prevent me from doing this. I'll hopefully post progress and how the process went for me at the end of the month.

 

[DPA200]

How’s the condition on part #11 in your diagram? Mine are the original 08 plates and they are pretty rusted out (mainly the rear). They had a updated part I heard that was thicker metal less prone to rust. Im only at 130k though, so my plan was to wait til I need bearings and then replace those plates at the same time. I think kurt sells some rear axle rebuild kit that includes everything but that’s for the rear.

 

[turbo8]

Try partsouq for your parts. The bearings are $93 each there.

I used the 20 ton harbor frieght press for my front wheel bearings.

Check your CVs, this would be a good time to replace them if they are worn out.

 

[gomez268]

How’s the condition on part #11 in your diagram? Mine are the original 08 plates and they are pretty rusted out (mainly the rear). They had a updated part I heard that was thicker metal less prone to rust. Im only at 130k though, so my plan was to wait til I need bearings and then replace those plates at the same time. I think kurt sells some rear axle rebuild kit that includes everything but that’s for the rear.

I hadn’t thought about that to be honest, I’ll need to check when I get a chance but if they are prone to rust, it might be a good idea for me to just go ahead and replace them too. Thanks for point that part out.

 

[DPA200]

I hadn’t thought about that to be honest, I’ll need to check when I get a chance but if they are prone to rust, it might be a good idea for me to just go ahead and replace them too. Thanks for point that part out.

Yeah check them out. I did a trail out here in AZ that’s a wet river bed the whole time. After I realized I had little river rocks stuck between that plate and the rotors. I just wiggled the plates lightly to get the rocks out and the metal started to break apart. I hadn’t even realized they were rusted. I posted somewhere on mud and after the initial sticker shock on those plates (I think like $300 each) a bunch of people chimed in saying if you have the axle apart (which you need to change the plates) you should replace bearings, potentially rebuild the axle, and install lockers if you desire. Take what could be 3-4 separate jobs and tackling at one time. I’ve shelved it for now til my bearing show signs of decline.

 

[gomez268]

Try partsouq for your parts. The bearings ar $93 each there.

I used the 20 ton harbor frieght press for my front wheel bearings.

Check your CVs, this would be a good time to replace them if they are worn out.

Thanks I checked and for both fronts its about $336.

How was the process for the front wheel bearings? any hang-ups? anything I should be prepared for?

The CVs i had replaced last yr so I should be good.

 

[DPA200]

Loooooota lil river rocks jammed everywhere

 

[DPA200]

Thanks I checked and for both fronts its about $336.

How was the process for the front wheel bearings? any hang-ups? anything I should be prepared for?

The CVs i had replaced last yr so I should be good.

Of that’s not a bad price at all. Not sure the front process, I only researched the rear and don’t personally know anybody who has done. Maybe reach out to @cruiseroutfit i know they are familiar with the process

 

[gomez268]

Try partsouq for your parts. The bearings are $93 each there.

I used the 20 ton harbor frieght press for my front wheel bearings.

Check your CVs, this would be a good time to replace them if they are worn out.

I had the CVs replaced last year so I should be good there.

How was the front bearing replacement? did you require any additional specialty tools besides the floor press?

 

[turbo8]

I had the CVs replaced last year so I should be good there.

How was the front bearing replacement? did you require any additional specialty tools besides the floor press?

Getting the hub out required a bearing separator.
I used this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009VI9WFG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Make sure you put the bolts into the bearing housing before your press the hub into it.

 

[bloc]

I would add the cotter pins 95381-04045
Should be pretty cheap.

Also some people elect to replace the hub bolts to get clean threads and heads. 91672-L1240

If you can't get the dust/grease cover off without mangling it the number is 43514-34020
I wouldn't bother getting these ahead of time unless they are cheap. Can be run without temporarily and installed later when you have time.

If you care about torque values you'll need a 17mm offset torque wrench adapter for those bolts. 73ft-lb
And a torque wrench capable of 251ft-lb for the second tightening stage on the large CV/hub nut.

Note that it requires a decent sized bearing splitter to get the hub out of the old bearing. I have all the parts for this on the shelf but been sitting on this trying to figure out if the one I have will work. Don't really want to invest in a larger splitter just for this one job.

 

[linuxgod]

@cruiseroutfit has good prices on Koyo bearings as well as kits for the front with the bearing pre-pressed into the hub, if you don't have easy access to a press. Not sure about the rear. Their fronts were cheaper than "Toyota" ones but they're the same bearing.

If you're not sure about the source of the noise I'd highly recommend hooking up a set of ChassisEar. They are under $100 and helped me located my noise down to the driver's front bearing. FWIW seems like several people have found that when the rear bearings start to go they will slowly groove the speed sensor that's in the rear diff by the wheels, so you may want to just pull those first and examine them to see if there's any unusual signs of wear before tearing into the whole job.

 

[turbo8]

Check your parking brake shoes too. Mine broke up into pieces and would make strange noises from time to time.

 

[gomez268]

@cruiseroutfit has good prices on Koyo bearings as well as kits for the front with the bearing pre-pressed into the hub, if you don't have easy access to a press. Not sure about the rear. Their fronts were cheaper than "Toyota" ones but they're the same bearing.

If you're not sure about the source of the noise I'd highly recommend hooking up a set of ChassisEar. They are under $100 and helped me located my noise down to the driver's front bearing. FWIW seems like several people have found that when the rear bearings start to go they will slowly groove the speed sensor that's in the rear diff by the wheels, so you may want to just pull those first and examine them to see if there's any unusual signs of wear before tearing into the whole job.

Thanks for the advise, I didn’t know there was such a tool. How easy was it using the tool to determine which bearing it was and having off road tires?

From the feel of the noise I’m fairly certain it’s the driver side bearing but due to the mileage on the vehicle think it would be wise to replace both fronts. But I might start with the front driver and see how things improve.

 

[gomez268]

I would add the cotter pins 95381-04045
Should be pretty cheap.

Also some people elect to replace the hub bolts to get clean threads and heads. 91672-L1240

If you can't get the dust/grease cover off without mangling it the number is 43514-34020
I wouldn't bother getting these ahead of time unless they are cheap. Can be run without temporarily and installed later when you have time.

If you care about torque values you'll need a 17mm offset torque wrench adapter for those bolts. 73ft-lb
And a torque wrench capable of 251ft-lb for the second tightening stage on the large CV/hub nut.

Note that it requires a decent sized bearing splitter to get the hub out of the old bearing. I have all the parts for this on the shelf but been sitting on this trying to figure out if the one I have will work. Don't really want to invest in a larger splitter just for this one job.

forgot about the 251ft-lb torque wrench. I'm going to try and re-use as much as I can. I feel like I can open a mechanic shop with all the tools I have accumulated since buying the Land Cruiser.

 

[gomez268]

Check your parking brake shoes too. Mine broke up into pieces and would make strange noises from time to time.

I had the brake rotors and shoes replaced about 2 yrs ago with DBA rotors and pads. I'll check but they should still good. Honestly the vibration is coming from the front driver side and has been getting worst the last few months, which I had accredited to my aggressive MT tires, but saw on another thread that 200k miles is about how long the bearings normally last.

 

[bloc]

I had the brake rotors and shoes replaced about 2 yrs ago with DBA rotors and pads. I'll check but they should still good. Honestly the vibration is coming from the front driver side and has been getting worst the last few months, which I had accredited to my aggressive MT tires, but saw on another thread that 200k miles is about how long the bearings normally last.

Search on here for “chassis ears” for a write up on a tool you can get to figure out definitively what is going on. (Edit: didn’t see linuxgod’s similar post. Really is a great tool.)

And I hear you on tools. I have four torque wrenches.. though one of them is exclusively for setting up diff gears, and rarely used.

 

[grinchy]

you can also just buy the complete hub assembly and turn this into four more bolts than a brake job (plus the axle nut).
I didn't use OEM hubs, IIRC I paid something like $90 each. 20,000 miles in and still quiet. Or at least quieter than my mid-life AT tires are.
I figure if I do this every 50k I'll always have fresh quiet bearings and be $ ahead, but I understand wanting to use OEM parts.
For torque I got a pipe on my breaker bar, measured out where my weight * my leverage = 250 ft lbs, and stood on it. Tiny bounce to make sure. There is also a two step torque on the castle nut (torque to first target, loosen, retorque to 2nd target).

 

[linuxgod]

you can also just buy the complete hub assembly and turn this into four more bolts than a brake job (plus the axle nut).
I didn't use OEM hubs, IIRC I paid something like $90 each. 20,000 miles in and still quiet. Or at least quieter than my mid-life AT tires are.
I figure if I do this every 50k I'll always have fresh quiet bearings and be $ ahead, but I understand wanting to use OEM parts.
For torque I got a pipe on my breaker bar, measured out where my weight * my leverage = 250 ft lbs, and stood on it. Tiny bounce to make sure. There is also a two step torque on the castle nut (torque to first target, loosen, retorque to 2nd target).

I bought an EPAuto 20-250# torque wrench (after buying a 10-120# one a year prior). I needed it to assemble my weight distributing hitch for the trailer. Well worth the $40-50. It's not a Snap-on but it's "close enough". When I got to the ball I realized the 1-1/4" or whatever nut on the bottom was supposed to be torqued to 450#, instead of the normal 250# that a 1" nut would've needed. Pretty hard to find a torque wrench for that unless you step up to 3/4" or 1" sockets, so I went with "250# plus a breaker bar until I couldn't move it anymore. Seems to have worked, but I felt very redneck at the time.

 

[linuxgod]

Thanks for the advise, I didn’t know there was such a tool. How easy was it using the tool to determine which bearing it was and having off road tires?

From the feel of the noise I’m fairly certain it’s the driver side bearing but due to the mileage on the vehicle think it would be wise to replace both fronts. But I might start with the front driver and see how things improve.

It's easy. The wireless ones are easier, but they were double the cost. The ChassisEar are basically just little spring clamps which have a piezoelectic microphone in them. You just attach them to fixed areas near your possible problem, then run the wires up and around and into the vehicle. You listen through headphones and can drive around and flip between the mics to compare. The real test is comparing one side to another as it's hard to tell whether the noise is expected or not sometimes but if one side is loud and the other is quiet then you know you've found the (or a) problem.