Yeah, nothing special. I made what @grinchy used out of a combination wrench and dead blow hammer.
Front Wheel Bearing replacement
- Thread starter gomez268
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so 3-jaw 5ton puller and 12-side axle nut kits loaned from Autozone got me here. Now I’m stuck.
Is there no way to swap the inner seal out without removing the knuckle?! (Part #7 is OP’s post)
Tried the two 24mm on either side of LBJ, won’t budge.
UBJ popped free.
Tie rod ball joint won’t break free either.
Or Maybe I just need to take a couple of beers break and let the PB blaster soak in enough.
Is there no way to swap the inner seal out without removing the knuckle?! (Part #7 is OP’s post)
Tried the two 24mm on either side of LBJ, won’t budge.
UBJ popped free.
Tie rod ball joint won’t break free either.
Or Maybe I just need to take a couple of beers break and let the PB blaster soak in enough.
Also, for those wondering what’s best to use to the 4 “captured” hub bolts out from the knuckle.
Used a my stocking gift card and got a set of craftsman 6-point wrenches. Set of 6 for ~$45 from Lowe’s. IMO, worth the investment for stubborn bolts.
Used a my stocking gift card and got a set of craftsman 6-point wrenches. Set of 6 for ~$45 from Lowe’s. IMO, worth the investment for stubborn bolts.
Mischief managed.
Forgot to bring out the big big guns on the lower bolts either side of the LBJ. And 22mm instead of 24mm (need more coffee than beer maybe).
Forgot to bring out the big big guns on the lower bolts either side of the LBJ. And 22mm instead of 24mm (need more coffee than beer maybe).
Anyone have a torque spec for those two LBJ bolts that attach to the spindle?
Thanks!
Getting ready to do the 2016+ MY BBK mod and was thinking to go ahead and do the front bearings while Im in there. Looks like Cruiser Outfitters has the aftermarket kits now but there is also a 25% off sale going on at Serra and I can get the complete OEM hubs with bearings installed for $210 each plus the misc seals and things.
I think this is the right part# can anyone confirm (43570-60031).
Toyota Bearing Assembly Front Axle With Anti-Lock Brake System Rotor #43570-60031 | Autoparts.toyota.com
Toyota Front Axle Bearing Assembly with ABS rotor for smooth wheel rotation, hub fit, and accurate braking performance.
autoparts.serratoyota.com
I think this is the right part# can anyone confirm (43570-60031).
That is just the bearing, you will still need the hub that presses into that along with the bolts that go in before the hub gets pressed in.
You can reuse your original hubs but they are a pain to press out of the old bearings and pressed into the new bearings.
Thanks, but now Im really confused. The description says “assembly”
That’s not the whole thing with the hub?
Edit: I see what your=r saying now. Cruiser Outfitter’s kit is the bearing assembly plus the hub assembly pressed together.
Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly - Fits URJ200/LX570 Front LH/RH Applications (FAHUB200KITAFT)
Wheel Hub Bearing Assembley - Fits URJ200/LX570 Front LH/RH Applications
cruiserteq.com
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It is exactly what you see in the picture.Thanks, but now Im really confused. The description says “assembly”
View attachment 4198950
View attachment 4198954
That’s not the whole thing with the hub?
Edit: I see what your=r saying now. Cruiser Outfitter’s kit is the bearing assembly plus the hub assembly pressed together.
Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly - Fits URJ200/LX570 Front LH/RH Applications (FAHUB200KITAFT)
Wheel Hub Bearing Assembley - Fits URJ200/LX570 Front LH/RH Applications
This is what the full assembly looks like, ready to bolt in.
Looking back to 2023 when I ordered a complete wheel hub bearing assembly from them...the price did go up by 75%. 
If you have the tools, you can save some money by doing the press work at the cost of your time.
Not sure of the cost of drivetrain shops to do the press work, but that might save you time and some money too.
If you have the tools, you can save some money by doing the press work at the cost of your time.
Not sure of the cost of drivetrain shops to do the press work, but that might save you time and some money too.
Thanks. Im slow but eventually I catch on…Looking back to 2023 when I ordered a complete wheel hub bearing assembly from them...the price did go up by 75%.
If you have the tools, you can save some money by doing the press work at the cost of your time.
Not sure of the cost of drivetrain shops to do the press work, but that might save you time and some money too.
The complete assembly isn’t available from Toyota. The parts new would be over $400 from Serra even with the 25% off. Cruiser Outfitters price is still pretty good compared to OEM and it’s assembled. I could use this as an excuse to go to Harbor Fright and buy a press…. But I can probably get the press work done at a friends or local shop. It’s temping to just get the kit from Cruiser Outfitters and just bolt it in.
I could be wrong, but I think MOST of the CO kit is OEM and only a few of the smaller parts are aftermarket. No?
This is what I went with, regardless, but they are still sitting in my garage a year later
The CO kit says “aftermarket” FWIW but I think the actual bearing is the same Koyo bearing Mr. T uses.
I found this video showing the bearing replacement. These guys removed the knuckle with the bearing/hub and pressed in the hub with the bearing bolted to the knuckle. I believe the 4 bearing bolts need to be installed into the bearing holes before the hub and bearing assembly are pressed together or you can’t get them int the holes. Doing it the way they show in the video would also allow you to torque the 4 bolts w/o an open end adapter if you care about that.
Stupid question on pressing the hub and bearing together, how do you know when to stop pressing?
I found this video showing the bearing replacement. These guys removed the knuckle with the bearing/hub and pressed in the hub with the bearing bolted to the knuckle. I believe the 4 bearing bolts need to be installed into the bearing holes before the hub and bearing assembly are pressed together or you can’t get them int the holes. Doing it the way they show in the video would also allow you to torque the 4 bolts w/o an open end adapter if you care about that.
Stupid question on pressing the hub and bearing together, how do you know when to stop pressing?
Gotta say—that’s a hell of a press in that video!
You’re right about those hub bolts. Get the 4 hub bolts fitted between the hub and bearing assembly before pressing the hub/bearing together. If you don’t, you’ll need to buy a new bearing and do everything again. (I’ve done that more than once………
)You’re finished pressing when the hub is seated all the way into the bearing. Basically when there’s no more movement/progress and your press pressure just climbs. You should see no more than a few thousand pounds while pressing the hub in unless it’s binding.
Also, make sure you use an old race or a press cup to support the bearing properly while you’re pressing it in or you’ll destroy it.
There are at least two different Koyo/Jtekt bearings available for the front end of the 200 and Tundra chassis vehicles.
1 OEM Koyo 43570-60031 and aftermarket equivalent Koyo 2DUF058N-5BR
2 OEM Koyo 43570-0C010 and aftermarket Koyo 2DUF058N-5 or sometimes 5R
The difference between 1 and 2 is in the grease seals. The 5BR has extra seals, whereas the 5/5R does not. These seals are fairly serious, and they not only keep junk out, but the grease in. The latter relies largely on the hub, knuckle, and cv seals to keep contaminants out. It doesn’t really have seals at all on the inboard side of the bearing. Other suffixes seem to exist, but we won’t concern ourselves with them at this point. The short of it is that the Land Cruiser bearing receives a higher grade of sealing when compared to the Tundra bearing.
With all the OEM, aftermarket, reselling, and fakes out there, we need to know what is what in the box we just purchased. The 5/5R bearing is frequently sold as a 5BR. The easy way to tell what bearing you have… If it comes with the internal plastic retainer, which holds the bearing together for transport, you have a 5/5R. The 5BR is held together by the extra seals, so it needs no retainer.
1 OEM Koyo 43570-60031 and aftermarket equivalent Koyo 2DUF058N-5BR
2 OEM Koyo 43570-0C010 and aftermarket Koyo 2DUF058N-5 or sometimes 5R
The difference between 1 and 2 is in the grease seals. The 5BR has extra seals, whereas the 5/5R does not. These seals are fairly serious, and they not only keep junk out, but the grease in. The latter relies largely on the hub, knuckle, and cv seals to keep contaminants out. It doesn’t really have seals at all on the inboard side of the bearing. Other suffixes seem to exist, but we won’t concern ourselves with them at this point. The short of it is that the Land Cruiser bearing receives a higher grade of sealing when compared to the Tundra bearing.
With all the OEM, aftermarket, reselling, and fakes out there, we need to know what is what in the box we just purchased. The 5/5R bearing is frequently sold as a 5BR. The easy way to tell what bearing you have… If it comes with the internal plastic retainer, which holds the bearing together for transport, you have a 5/5R. The 5BR is held together by the extra seals, so it needs no retainer.
That is useful information! It’s hard to tell what you are getting when ordering online. I believe the Tundra 43570-0C010 (5R) looks like this:
While the LC 43570-600010 (5BR) looks like this:
To your point about the 5R being sold at 5BR, google searches finds all kind of stuff like this:
This looks right but has the plastic part. Maybe it is right and sometimes they use the plastic thing.
The Cruiser Outfitters web site pic is this:
I think looks like the 5BR. I’ll call CO to make sure.
The info is solid, but is obviously open to change, as there are so many fakes and variants that can make their way into the supply chain. There is also the possibility that Toyota or Koyo themselves could eliminate (part number change) or substitute the unsealed version.