Im sure there is a hundred threads out there on this... but im on my phone sorry. I just got my 285/75-16 Duratracs put on... What's the tallest measurement I can crank the front tbars before worrying about the drive axle angles? ... I cranked them up about 1" and ran out pf adjustment on the screw... just wondering if I should go thru the hassle of re-indexing them to get that last inch I was hoping for, or just be patient and finish saving for the 2.5" lift kit... suggestions?
Front torsion bar crank
- Thread starter jasong
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The 2.5" lift doesn't affect the torsion bars, you get the lift from cranking those. If you want another inch you'll have to reindex. Be sure to leave some down travel on the front end.
I wouldn't bother, the lack of adjustment is doing you a favor. Every inch you crank them up is an inch lost in down travel. No down travel and you will be left with a very bad ride and suspension performance.
If you want to crank them more, first measure your current down travel. There is should be approx 2.25 - 2.5" down travel at a minimum.
If you want to crank them more, first measure your current down travel. There is should be approx 2.25 - 2.5" down travel at a minimum.
- Thread starter
- #4
Trunk Monkey said:
Don't the ome torsion bars that come with the kit sit higher than stock with a different spring rate? ... or are you saying I just crank the stock tbars and put new springs in the rear?... im prob not going to mess with reindexing the bars if I can buy the ome kit in a few months.
You are thinking traditional coil springs and need to get that out of your head. With torsion bars spring rate and ride height are completely exclusive of each other. In other words they have nothing in common. Changing the torsion bar only effects the spring rate of the bar, zero impact on ride height. Why, because when you install the bars you can index them to any height you would like.
Let me put it another way, you can install OME torsion bars and still have the exact same ride height as stock torsion bars.
- Thread starter
- #6
Anthony.L said:
So then... if im not planning on a bumper soon but want the lift... just do rear springs, reindex the stock tbars, and find some long travel shocks, then realign?... any advantage to new torsion bars if im not doing bumpers? Do the tbars wear out?... I have a 1999 with 126k miles.
If you want to retain a somewhat stock ride then do a "medium" spring in the rear (865 would be a medium spring with a 2" lift). As for the torsion bars, a larger diameter torsion bar will ride rougher, more stable in the corners and far greater load carrying. For no bumpers I would crank/reindex them and see how it rides. If it's to soft for you, order up some OME. If you love the ride you just saved $320, since you have the alignment set from the stock bars that were cranked, you don't have to do another alingment if you keep the height with the new OME bars. . Torsion bars do wear out, but at 126K I highly doubt they are worn out, but sagging? Maybe a .5" from showroom height.
Now you got it! Correct on all accounts.
I've never heard of a torsion bar wearing out, and I would not have no concerns with the mileage you have on your LC.
If you put OME bars on your LC before adding bumpers and additional weight then it's all disadvantages. Hence why mine still has stock bars and the OEM are sitting in the garage the past year and half.
Like any spring they can loose some of their springyness. Like 2000 said, crank up what you've got - it's free - and go from there.
- Thread starter
- #10
2000UZJ said:
Diff drop also needed for a level 2" stance?
most would say yes. But I would tell you to put some band clamps on them and enjoy. But yes, lifting a 100 any more than 2" does create quite the angle the CV has to rotate at. I have a 2" lift (now a bit higher) and do not have a diff drop. I do have my CV's rebooted with new boots, and hose clamps keeping them leak free. I wheel my truck hard, and have never had a issue, offroad or on the highway. I'm about 45K on the lift.
- Thread starter
- #12
2000UZJ said:
I have actually had new cv joints and axle shafts installed since cranking the tbars the first 1" about a year ago.. only about 15 k miles on the new cv joints... would that make any difference in my decision to get the dif drop?
- Thread starter
- #13
Does anyone know what the stock measurement is from top of hub to fender?
Way too many variables for any number given to be used as a benchmark. Just measure yours stock and use that as a benchmark.
If you have already cranked the bars without measuring originally, then measure droop and adjust based on that. Maintain at least 60mm of droop to be within ideal range.
- Thread starter
- #15
Thanks... Just got done measuring where I'm at... I have almost 3.5" of droop now... I'm going to crank another 3/4 to 1" on it and order a 30mm spacer for the rear coils for now... I will do the OME kit when I'm ready for bumpers and winch. Last questions on the tbars... I have almost an inch of adjustment left in the bolt on the passenger side and no adjustment on the drivers side. Anything wrong with reindexing only one tbar if the other has enough adjustment left? Should they both be reindexed together? Also is this enough lift to order a longer travel shock? Thanks again for everyone's help on this.
60mm equals 2.36", so I would agree you can easily crank up the front 1" and be safe. If I remember correctly I cranked mine 1.25" above stock. No issue with the arms being at different index levels.
As for long travel shocks, in the front the shock is not the limiting factor in down travel. Instead it's the upper control arms. That's why you see products like Carl's UCA's for sale. They allow more down travel in the mechanical suspension, and combined with a longer shock more overall travel.
In the rear, the shock is the limiting factory in down travel.
As for long travel shocks, in the front the shock is not the limiting factor in down travel. Instead it's the upper control arms. That's why you see products like Carl's UCA's for sale. They allow more down travel in the mechanical suspension, and combined with a longer shock more overall travel.
In the rear, the shock is the limiting factory in down travel.
I'm thinking I may try cranking mine up a bit, do I need to jack the truck up and take the weight off the bars first before I crank them up? about how much height can I get out of them?
Absolutely, never adjust the torsion bars when the suspension is loaded. You will break something.
As for total lift, from stock you can easily go up .75-1.0" with little trouble. What you need to watch is the droop, make sure you don't crank too much. Measure droop and make sure it's at least 2.35".
NOTE: Cranking the torsion bars means getting your alignment adjusted! Beware, cranking is free, alignment is not.
I have some measurements from mine in stock form.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/491559-road-100-2001-build-thread-3.html#post7014592
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/491559-road-100-2001-build-thread-3.html#post7014592