Absolutely, never adjust the torsion bars when the suspension is loaded. You will break something.
Not necessarily true... But it is dumb.
You will work a lot harder if the thing is loaded. Make life easy and jack it up so it is unloaded.
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Absolutely, never adjust the torsion bars when the suspension is loaded. You will break something.
Absolutely, never adjust the torsion bars when the suspension is loaded. You will break something.
As for total lift, from stock you can easily go up .75-1.0" with little trouble. What you need to watch is the droop, make sure you don't crank too much. Measure droop and make sure it's at least 2.35".
NOTE: Cranking the torsion bars means getting your alignment adjusted! Beware, cranking is free, alignment is not.
Sledhead800 said:So I will asume as I go up the camber will change... whats involed in resetting the camber on a 100 front end?
How will the castor change by cranking up the torsion bars?Caster and camber. If you want to really be picky you can have the toe adjusted to your liking as well.
How will the castor change by cranking up the torsion bars?
Still not 100% sure but my caster upfront was a little out of spec. My 100 was aligned extremely poorly so you may not have that issue.
I have noticed my passenger side front tire wear more on the outside that tells me my camber may be slightly off...
2000UZJ said:I think this is a issue with the 100's. Every 100 I see wears a little on the outside. I don't have my spec sheet with me, but I have found a cure for that. Since all trucks are different in there little ways some trucks may not be able to adjust the camber all the way. I have run a negative camber on mine, and a very little toe (less than factory specs). This has solved my outer tire wear.