Front Sway bar mods

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SHAGGY101

SHAGGY101

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Is it recommended to lengthen the front sway bar links (as in the rear) on a lifted 100 or is it preferred to just remove it all together (running a 100 w/ heavy springs)? What could possibly/ are the advantages and disadvantages of each?

Thanks,
Ryan
 
Have not heard of anyone lengthening them, but could be something to look into.
Removing them reduces control in high speed maneuvers.
 
I think if you're OME T-bar'ed and not too heavy you could remove it. The increased rate of the OME bars will reduce body roll to some degree. Some folks(me+) have broken multiple parts of the sway bar system for no good reason so it may not be the most robust part of your Truck anyway.

Mine is totally removed now, stock T-bars ~stock curb weight... but it and I were simultaneously broke so off it came. Don't mind the handling without it but I'm not recommending my set-up exactly either (stock bars, no sway).
 
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Trunk Monkey said:
I wouldn't yank it. You don't gain suspension travel off road like you do on a solid axle and the on road handling sucks without it.
Click to expand...


Having been forced to live without the front anti-sway bar for a significant portion of our Utah trip last year, due to snapping off the frame mount bracket, I can unequivocally state the off-road performance sans the anti-sway bar is easily noticed, beneficial and worthy of trying to figure out a quick disconnect.

However the highway trip home was downright scary when cornering and/or fast lane changes/dodging spewed 18-wheeler tire carcasses and/or in stiff crosswinds :rolleyes: at 65mph+...all the more exaggerated with stuff on the roof rack.

The hot set-up would be for some type of quick disconnect. This is what I was thinking: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/swaybar-disconnects-toyota-cheap-tricks-18343.html

Note: Due to less suspension resistance sans anti-sway bar the front control arms had a little more compression travel...my tires don't typically contact the upper inner fender liner at full compression but they did without the ASB in place.
 
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spressomon said:
I can unequivocally state the off-road performance sans the anti-sway bar is easily noticed, beneficial and worthy of trying to figure out a quick disconnect.

The hot set-up would be for some type of quick disconnect. This is what I was thinking: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/swaybar-disconnects-toyota-cheap-tricks-18343.html
Click to expand...

You would really enjoy the added articulation on the trail of having either no sway bar or a disconnected sway bar, I do. (it's not limiting travel, but it is limiting articulation)

QD's would be the very best set-up! Now if I could only figure out why the links and bolts break I might put mine back on...
 
Any thoughts on taking an electronically controlled system from a different vehicle and making it fit. For example, how hard would it be to take the mechanical/electrical bits from the the Jeep Rubicon sway bar disconnect and attaching it to the LC sway bar:

MOPAR 82210218 - MOPAR® Performance OEM Rubicon Edition Sway Bar Disconnect for 07-11 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

Not nearly as economical, but love the idea of taking care of business from the cabin without having to crawl under the truck (especially helpful in situations where you would only temporarily appreciate the articulation help.)
 
sonk76 said:
Any thoughts on taking an electronically controlled system from a different vehicle and making it fit. For example, how hard would it be to take the mechanical/electrical bits from the the Jeep Rubicon sway bar disconnect and attaching it to the LC sway bar:

MOPAR 82210218 - MOPAR® Performance OEM Rubicon Edition Sway Bar Disconnect for 07-11 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

Not nearly as economical, but love the idea of taking care of business from the cabin without having to crawl under the truck (especially helpful in situations where you would only temporarily appreciate the articulation help.)
Click to expand...

Locrwln and I have batted this around and not saying its impossible but space, particularly all around the front anti-sway bar, is just so limited on our platform...it would certainly make it extra challenging at the very least.
 
That's interesting. I had mine out for a trip and really didn't notice any gains in travel. Seemed like the shocks and t-bars were limiting it long before the sway bar came into account. On the rear end, sure, but I didn't notice that much on the IFS.
 
Trunk Monkey said:
That's interesting. I had mine out for a trip and really didn't notice any gains in travel. Seemed like the shocks and t-bars were limiting it long before the sway bar came into account. On the rear end, sure, but I didn't notice that much on the IFS.
Click to expand...

The front suspension on mine sans the ASB felt quicker and much more resilient over the rough stuff. I wouldn't call it a night and day difference but there was definitely a difference; and for me worth the effort if a relatively easy to disconnect/reconnect system became available. Maybe the Fox shocks and Carl's UCAs contributed...dunno.
 
Trunk Monkey said:
Yeah, I could see that. I'm wondering what's up with you and the couple others seemingly randomly snapping front sway bar hardware.
Click to expand...

Well...the front anti-sway bar bracket that is welded to the frame is a relatively weak design for lifted rigs IMO. Add a little corrosion courtesy of upper New York State along with about 100k tough added miles with lots of off-road higher speed washboard and its easy for me to see why they might fail. The bracket was failing in two places on my rig...the weld didn't actually fail but the metal itself just fatigued...

Assuming the TRD anti-sway bars are larger diameter and an effective release mechanism could be designed that might lead to a nice street/dirt combo!
 
SHAGGY101 said:
What about just extending the front links as a compromise like in the rear (~50mm)?
Click to expand...

Extending the links would keep the sway bar effect (force) close to stock by maintaining the stock angles. But it would still have the same limitations on articulation, and travel would be unaffected. Not sure if it would reduce the incidence of broken parts however.

Longer links are worth a try, but if you're going to fab longer links why not make them disconnect-able? 2 birds 1 stone.

2c,
 
For crawling, the front end moves much easier without the front sway. In fact, the lifted suspension feels like a stock setup in the rocks especially if you've removed your rear sway as well.

It's scary though off-camber. I didn't like that.

On-road/highway...plain freaky and dangerous.

And no...no extra travel is gained without them. What is gained though is the axles are FREE to move and that's a good thing overall on most trails.
 
AimCOtaco said:
Extending the links would keep the sway bar effect (force) close to stock by maintaining the stock angles. But it would still have the same limitations on articulation, and travel would be unaffected. Not sure if it would reduce the incidence of broken parts however.

Longer links are worth a try, but if you're going to fab longer links why not make them disconnect-able? 2 birds 1 stone.

2c,
Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan, I will see if i can work it. I have already planned for disconnects in the rear along with and extension (50mm).
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
And what are you going to do (secure it) with the sway when it's disco'd?
Click to expand...

Haven't quite figured it out yet. I will probably have to fab up some sort of bracket. I will have to get under there to see what I can do. I will have to make sure it is protected from rocks and stuff.
 
Anyone ever figure out quick disconnects or sliding links yet?
 
Toyota already makes a quick disconnect system. Why reinvent the wheel. Let's spend our time learning of ways to apply the KDSS system Toy makes and making the connections we need to source the parts. Beno and Co. are great but I'm thinking we might want access to a used parts guy.
 
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