Front sway bar frame mounts/brakets (1 Viewer)

[Pucker5]

so I’m trying to replace my front sway bar bushings on my 2003 Cruiser and rust has gotten the best of the frame mounts. As this is not a replacement item Toyota sells...what do you guys think about using angle stainless steel

This stuff comes in .25, .375, and .5 thickness.

4" x 4" x 0.25" T-316 Stainless Angle - Online Metal Store

Thoughts. The alternative is asking the lazy jerks at wrecking yards to cut it off a frame and they have been reluctant to do it because it takes longer than five mins. Picture of right included.

 

[LXFAM]

I had the exact same thing happen to my car, the entire piece detached from the frame and rested on the torsion bar. I brought it to my local frame shop and they fabricated and welded a new mount for the passenger side.

 

[Pucker5]

Yeah, I’ve been quoted 200$-300$ per side and I’d prefer to be at like 100$ per side. I figure I’f I have the solution relatively engineered the welder will just have to cut the old bracket off. Space the mounting holes correctly, place it, and weld. Thoughts?

 

[cmck]

Well, having it fabricated in steel is probably the right approach. You might be able to save some labor if you and your fabricator talk and maybe use something premade that you can modify. These guys are well known and have some premade stuff. Frame Mounting Platform, Small. I saw this bracket but I would defiantly partner and review with the guy your gonna use.

That said, $200-300 per side, doesn't sound way off to me. I think the front swaybar bushings from Mr T were $70-80.

 

[Spike555]

Sway Bar D Bracket Toyota Landcruiser 70, 80 and 100 Series

There you go.

 

[Julian Stead]

I think $200-$300 is a good price if he does a very good job, by the time he gets a grinder and wire wheel to that it could look a lot worse, remember he has to cut out all rust so he could be repairing the frame first then fabricating a bracket with good quality steel then adding protection. Is he putting new D clamps, hardware and bushes in. My fabricator doesn't do mechanical so would leave that to myself, so just be sure what you are getting for your money first. Your Sway bar looks corroded as well, see if you can get a good used one from a auto salvage as mine would chew up bushes fast when it was in that state, I got some good used ones shipped from the US to UK. Just explain you want a very good job for that price not a that will do for know job.

 

[FLWookie]

i used a piece of 2x2 angle iron and used paint through primer when i welded it on. the problem i had was the frame in that area was very rusted as well and the wire on my mig kept punching through around the welds...

 

[Pucker5]

yeah i think I'm going to use steel angle stock cut a few support brackets. I'm gonna take a 12" piece of 3x2x.25 hot rolled angle stock, cut 2" off each end, weld those cut pieces inside the remaining length flush to the outside edges (support gussets) and I'll have a 4" space on the bottom plate for placing the sway bar d bracket. It's 3.5" hole to hole so 4" will be perfect. The d bracket width is 1.25 and the bottom width of mounting bracket will be 2". Thoughts?

 

[Pucker5]

It’s late I had foil...for the visual people

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

It’s late I had foil...for the visual people

View attachment 1557899

I'd just stick with the foil...looks solid!

 

[FLWookie]

Here's what I fabbed up. But I put the nut at the front and it should have been towards the rear of the truck. I bought new bushing clamps. Hard to see but I left the inner corner open to allow the water to drain out of this "bucket" so it won't dissolve again.

 

[Pucker5]

Those look good. Welding the nut to the bracket is a good idea. Toyotaaster tech I was networked with said that’s optional but if you’re welding anyways. What thickness is that? I’ll make sure i leave an area for water to drain. Probably put another small hole on the outside of the vertical gusset and leave a small weld gap on the gusset itself. Too many words. Thanks pals!